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rr390

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Posts posted by rr390

  1. mainly on start up idling pops and carries on. Going along is all right, when u give it a gut full of stick all fine, then when u back off throttle it backfires and wants to stall.

    Hey gio-maybe try your problem in the yamaha workshop-or dual sport sections? Sounds like the 600 couldnt pull the skin off a custard hey? cheers. :D

  2. Have you checked ur crankcase seals? My 98dt would run but not idle-had nothing down low-would also get hot very quick. Ended up being seals. I noticed a small airleak noise when kicking the bike over-couldnt work out where it was coming from! then i noticed oil dripping from flywheel side cover-screw at bottom with seal on it.wiped oil-it was dark-didnt make sense? smelt oil-uh huh-2stroke-found my problem.It may not b but worth checking! If ur flywheel side seal is as chopped out as mine was-when u remove sidecover and start bike u get uncontrollable revs.you will also get alot of engine noise.

  3. ps rr90 to reply to your pm , i had a similar problem to misfits, after changing needle valve then crank seals I was able to get closer to a good setting , slightly out at the moment cos its so cold .currently running 35 pilot 150 main middle clip , plug BR8ES - colour light brown after a thrash

    hello bob- not sure wot u mean by needle valve? Is ur bike stock all round bob? i m also using br8es- wot does the light brown colour indicate about the way bike is running? i m preety sure u said u hav disconected auto-lube. is that why u hav had 2 change jetting from standard?

  4. Ive only been able to get 84 ks out of a tank is that bad or good for a dt

    Please help cheers

    84kms 2 a tank sounds very ordinary-even with non original pipe-cant say how much pipe will affect-but standard stock dt200,s wil get between 140-160 to a tank-depending on how and where u r riding.I agree with cynic about ur spark plug. u may also want 2 check ur reed valves after plug change.

  5. Got myself a 2003 DT125R with low, low miles :D

    [hello mate!! i just cant stop looking at that bike of urs....wow! i own the aussie model-its a 98dt200. looks exactly the same but different colour. it is a rare find-congrats. wish we could still get them here! unbelievable that we can still buy a 2stroke boat motor which u think would b worse-(being in the water.) anyway ENJOY!!! sweet bike. I LOVE IT!!!!

  6. How much of the bike do I need to pull down to get to the crank seals?

    Any advice before I do so?

    Any parts/gaskets I'll need to replace as soon as I venture this way (i.e. use once items)?

    Found that despite having a lot of fuel in it, the tank wasn't putting any out...just the smallest trickle. Turns out what I was seeing was all reserve, no main. As soon as I filled the tank up the carbi started spewing it out again. Stupid mistake which has made the last week of troubleshooting close to useless. :(

    Also had another person mess with my carbi so gah...square one atm.

    I hav just recently replaced crankseals on my dt200.bought genuine yamaha,cost-$114-or $76 for the stator side-$38 clutch side. i had to buy a 27x1 lefthand male thread flywheel puller also as i could not find someone with correct size.cost-$55.

  7. Hey guys,

    I've recently bought a DT200R '88 and am working through the process of bringing it up to roadworthy status. The first hurdle is getting it working mechanically speaking as it has a few niggles here and there.

    It has apparently been bored out to 250cc so in this respect should be fairly newish engine wise (new gaskets etc).

    The first problem one is to do with the carbi (I hope). It refuses to run if the choke is off. It feels like it's running too lean so I'm trying a new pilot jet (current is 25, new is 35) to see if that helps things along.

    I have a small leak in the radiator, but I'm hoping stop leak will fix that.

    Removing the rear wheel was a *nightmare*. The thing would NOT budge even after all the screws had been removed. I had to virtually chisel it off the rear forks. I'm thinking all the gunk that's no doubt been left in it for years is the cause. I'm hoping now it's off I'll be able to get in there with WD40 and free the main shaft from all the bearings/spacers/wheel and give it all a good clean out and regreasing.

    ANYWAY....

    My main quick question for now is to do with the power valve. When I accelerate the valve doesn't move at all. It seems ok to move myself although I didn't disconnect it first to really see (I'll do this tomorrow). The real thing I'm wondering about though is will the servo operate without a battery? The manual for this bike says there is a battery but mine doesn't have one. The was apparently working until a wire fell out (although I still get highbeam showing in the dash) but that's it as far as the electrics go. What I'm trying to work out is how much of the electrics are dependant on having a battery.

    I also wanted to know how dependant the power valve is on the ignition system (which has been stripped out). The workshop guide I have is for a 125 and doesn't get into the powervalve because they were restricted in the UK. So I'm at a bit of a loss with this one issue.

    If anyone can shed some light on this I'd appreciate it!

  8. [quote name='bob-c' date='18 December 2009 - 07:13 AM' timestamp='12611 :) 20431' post='110008']

    Yes both the crank seals can be changed without splitting . For the stator side you will need a flywheel puller size 27x1 LEFT HAND THREAD , it's a quick job .

    Bob C

    thank you very much bob-c.i will have a play with it over the holidays. :)

  9. hi every1. i have a leaking crankcase seal on the stator side of my 98dt200r. i m wondering if the seal can be changed without splitting bottom end. if any1 can help would be much appreciated.

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