foy9999
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Posts posted by foy9999
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In case any one wants the answer.....
the frame no. 2F0 is for a XS650E '78
and the case no (engine no?) is for a XS650H '81
Graham.
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I have some old Yamahas (YAS3, RD125, CS3B) and although there are no forums specific to each model I find you get a lot of interest on sites such as this or Aircooled RD forum and with regard to parts I find trawling Ebay will rurn up everything if you are prepared to be patient.
There are over 1200 parts listed on Ebay for the bike just now and 113 of those are within UK
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I find that's one of the problems refurbishing a seat. Even with a really good cover it won't look right if your foam and base a knackered.
The guy made that CS3 cover for me for nothing on the condition that I'd send him a picture of the finished article but it took me about 2 or 3 years to find a decent base and foam to fit it to!
I must admit I didn't notice the wrinkles in the DT175 seat until youz pointed it out lol but they are probbaly there to allow the cover to puff out to the correct curve once the foam pads it out.
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It doesnt look like it from the photo
Well, the one he sent me for my Yamaha CS3 is perfect
so are the other 4 I bought from him for other models so I reckon the DT one would be fine once it is fitted to a good foam.
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It's not that, they have mistakenly used memory foam and that is a perfect cheek replica of who ever was on it last.....
They haven't used any foam as it isn't actually fitted to a seat.....they only sell the covers
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Anyone have a tin of this lying around?
but in Maroon C-6............
Even a partly used tin would do.
Need it to paint oil tank on Yamaha CS3B as it looks a great match for the original colour (Yamaha Metallic Purple - 34)
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Sounds like you are going the right way about this and if your foam is in good nick you are lucky cos this is usually the most damaged part and I'm pretty sure you can't get new ones. The plastic strip you are referring to usually just needs cleaned up as they don't usually rot or tear.
If you are looking for a top quality replacment cover at a good price try this link
This guy's products are fantastic.
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Hi was just wondering if any members have a AS1 as i am about to start restorin mine.
Will be uploading some photos over the weekend and would like to hear from anyone whos got one!
Cheers
Stef
Hi Stef. How did you come by a YAS1C in Scotland lol? The AS1 is rare itself in the UK and the C model (scrambler) even rarer. I live in Scotland too incidentally.
If you check out this website - these guys have restored at least 2 YAS1C models index.php?page=as1-scrambler'>index.php?page=as1-scrambler and the pictures are great. YamaParts based in Sweden
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I've been thru all this and broom handles etc didn't work for me. The solution was quite simple. View this link to save yourself the pain I endured lol
http://www.aircooledrdclub.org.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18121&KW=
go to the post dated 24 Aug 09 if you don't want to read all of it
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Looks great man. Wonder what colour it is. They are usually red or black but that looks real nice. You should have no problem getting parts for it. Have a look art this website http://www.yamaparts.com/ they have restored several YAS1s to a very high standard.
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matt/satin black dissapates heat efficiently, go ask the aircooled rd boys in their forum!
I did mine at the weekend. PJ1 Satin finish. One can was just enough for 3 coats on the 2 engine cases and their smaller covers (oil pup cover & points cover). It was just below 20 degress in garage when I used it (can says don't use under 21 degrees
) It was very simple to use and looks spot on. Only time will tell re durability but it made me think that even if finish only lasted a couple of years would still be cheaper and much less hassle than striping cases to post away for powder coating.
One thin I did notice was that tin says its suitable for use up to 500 degrees so gonna get another can for barrels. I used VHT paint before and there was a lot more involved re curing in oven etc. The PJ1 was very straightforward.
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wouldn't painting an air cooled engine cause it to heat up faster and get hotter in general because it acts as an insulator.
Its just the outer casings I'm doing (ie the bits that cover the clutch and oill pump on the RHS and timing assembly and final drive sprocket on LHS). The barrels, as you say, will probably need something special. Probably get them done professionally.
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PJ! is the best comes in satin or gloss black for engine cases. they are petrol proof when cured!!
I just ordered some. Will repost once finished job. Doing engine cases on 1974 RD125A and 1976 RD250C. I'm a bit dubious about the fact they don't need primer. Also their website suggests you use them when temp is in the 20s. I'm lucky if my garage gets warmer tham 15 degrees
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I am restoring my 1972 XS2 650cc but need the correct paint code for the Cany Orange colour. Can someone help.?
In 1972 there was a candy orange colour called Mandarin Orange in use on models such as the YAS3 (only sold in Europe) and YR5. The Yamaha code was 71.
Only earlier Yamahas (YCS1 for example) the colours were actually called Candy tone red (22) and Candy tone blue (44) as they were basically the first candy colours (ie transparent colour coat over silver base). A later candy orange used on the YCS2E 1969 was called Californian Orange (65) for example, so it is unlikely that in 1972 it would be called Candy Orange officially. I suspect yours is Mandarin Orange.
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I agree - the data isn't unusable. I was impressed with it until I read the rather facetious post which followed which put a dampener on things
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I recently got the engine cases powder coated on my YCS3. You need to strip out all oil seals and mechanisms that may get damaged by the blasting process or the heat when the powder coat is baked in oven.
To remove the worm drive/clutch actuating arm I had to file the end of the worm drive shaft where it is peened over the metal arm.
When the cases came back nicely painted I had to weld the arm to the shaft as there was no spare metal left to peen over, all the time worrying
about the heat damaging the new paint or the oil seal. It did work tho. I want to do the cases on my AS3 and RD125A which have similar mechanisms but the arm is held on in a slightly different fashion:- Looks like some sort of collar pressed in and deformed to hold the arm (241-16342-00 . LEVER, push)to the shaft (241-16341-01 . SCREW, push).
Anyone know how to separate these and re-assemble without resorting to welding
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hi,
i'm currently restoring a 1972 ycs3e,the bike was modified back in the 70's and is missing various parts to return it back to its originality,i require fuel tank,mudguards,seat and many other parts,info and photo's for this model,does anybody have these or can point me in the right direction?
thanks
I know it was a long time ago you posted but I have just completed building one from scratch almost so know where to get most spares (Ebay). If you need any advice just let me know.
1975 rs125 torque induction
in Classics
Posted
It might not need a front brake light switch but my '72 AS3 and '73 RD125 (torque induction) models both have them.
There is a little plastic switch that lives under the alloy brakelever perch and is wired into the loom (in the headlamp bowl).
The RS125 perhaps didn't have this as it was a single cylinder (budget?) model but the RD125 twin models definitely had a front brake stop switch as well as a rear.