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foy9999

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About foy9999

  • Birthday 04/11/1970

Previous Fields

  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamahas: CS3B, YAS3, RD125A, RD250C. Honda SS50ZK1-E

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  • Website URL
    http://theonlyhillmanimppickup.wordpress.com/ & http://jaguar-daimler-vdp-66.blogspot.com/
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Kilbride near Glasgow
  • Interests
    Old Yamahas, old cars, music (Ramones, Bob Dylan. Clash, etc), five a sides

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  1. It might not need a front brake light switch but my '72 AS3 and '73 RD125 (torque induction) models both have them. There is a little plastic switch that lives under the alloy brakelever perch and is wired into the loom (in the headlamp bowl). The RS125 perhaps didn't have this as it was a single cylinder (budget?) model but the RD125 twin models definitely had a front brake stop switch as well as a rear.
  2. In case any one wants the answer..... the frame no. 2F0 is for a XS650E '78 and the case no (engine no?) is for a XS650H '81 Graham.
  3. foy9999

    Yamaha YG-1

    I have some old Yamahas (YAS3, RD125, CS3B) and although there are no forums specific to each model I find you get a lot of interest on sites such as this or Aircooled RD forum and with regard to parts I find trawling Ebay will rurn up everything if you are prepared to be patient. There are over 1200 parts listed on Ebay for the bike just now and 113 of those are within UK
  4. I find that's one of the problems refurbishing a seat. Even with a really good cover it won't look right if your foam and base a knackered. The guy made that CS3 cover for me for nothing on the condition that I'd send him a picture of the finished article but it took me about 2 or 3 years to find a decent base and foam to fit it to! I must admit I didn't notice the wrinkles in the DT175 seat until youz pointed it out lol but they are probbaly there to allow the cover to puff out to the correct curve once the foam pads it out.
  5. Well, the one he sent me for my Yamaha CS3 is perfect so are the other 4 I bought from him for other models so I reckon the DT one would be fine once it is fitted to a good foam.
  6. They haven't used any foam as it isn't actually fitted to a seat.....they only sell the covers
  7. Anyone have a tin of this lying around? but in Maroon C-6............ Even a partly used tin would do. Need it to paint oil tank on Yamaha CS3B as it looks a great match for the original colour (Yamaha Metallic Purple - 34)
  8. Sounds like you are going the right way about this and if your foam is in good nick you are lucky cos this is usually the most damaged part and I'm pretty sure you can't get new ones. The plastic strip you are referring to usually just needs cleaned up as they don't usually rot or tear. If you are looking for a top quality replacment cover at a good price try this link My link This guy's products are fantastic.
  9. foy9999

    YAS1C 1968

    Hi Stef. How did you come by a YAS1C in Scotland lol? The AS1 is rare itself in the UK and the C model (scrambler) even rarer. I live in Scotland too incidentally. If you check out this website - these guys have restored at least 2 YAS1C models index.php?page=as1-scrambler'>index.php?page=as1-scrambler and the pictures are great. YamaParts based in Sweden
  10. I've been thru all this and broom handles etc didn't work for me. The solution was quite simple. View this link to save yourself the pain I endured lol http://www.aircooledrdclub.org.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18121&KW= go to the post dated 24 Aug 09 if you don't want to read all of it
  11. foy9999

    AS1 RESTORE

    Looks great man. Wonder what colour it is. They are usually red or black but that looks real nice. You should have no problem getting parts for it. Have a look art this website http://www.yamaparts.com/ they have restored several YAS1s to a very high standard.
  12. I did mine at the weekend. PJ1 Satin finish. One can was just enough for 3 coats on the 2 engine cases and their smaller covers (oil pup cover & points cover). It was just below 20 degress in garage when I used it (can says don't use under 21 degrees ) It was very simple to use and looks spot on. Only time will tell re durability but it made me think that even if finish only lasted a couple of years would still be cheaper and much less hassle than striping cases to post away for powder coating. One thin I did notice was that tin says its suitable for use up to 500 degrees so gonna get another can for barrels. I used VHT paint before and there was a lot more involved re curing in oven etc. The PJ1 was very straightforward.
  13. Its just the outer casings I'm doing (ie the bits that cover the clutch and oill pump on the RHS and timing assembly and final drive sprocket on LHS). The barrels, as you say, will probably need something special. Probably get them done professionally.
  14. I just ordered some. Will repost once finished job. Doing engine cases on 1974 RD125A and 1976 RD250C. I'm a bit dubious about the fact they don't need primer. Also their website suggests you use them when temp is in the 20s. I'm lucky if my garage gets warmer tham 15 degrees
  15. In 1972 there was a candy orange colour called Mandarin Orange in use on models such as the YAS3 (only sold in Europe) and YR5. The Yamaha code was 71. Only earlier Yamahas (YCS1 for example) the colours were actually called Candy tone red (22) and Candy tone blue (44) as they were basically the first candy colours (ie transparent colour coat over silver base). A later candy orange used on the YCS2E 1969 was called Californian Orange (65) for example, so it is unlikely that in 1972 it would be called Candy Orange officially. I suspect yours is Mandarin Orange.
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