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RogerD

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Posts posted by RogerD

    RT1 intake and carb....

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    I just finished my second restoration on a 1974 DT360 and got it sold on ebay. If you want to see it -

    http://cgi.ebay.com/...e=STRK:MESOX:IT

    DSCF1070bb-1.gif

    I am starting a refurbishment on a 1970 RT1 and just got it fired up for the first time today. I'm pretty sure it has a non-stock carb and intake on it. The mikuni carb has a 35.2mm slide with a big bell inlet that doesn't fit the stock air tube going to the airbox.

    I went ahead and removed the carb and intake on it and found it does have a reed valve intake block. It also has an intake block with a spigot mount 1.57ID (40mm) I am fairly sure the stock VM32SH had to be a flange mount.

    I have a book that says the RT1 and RT1B were both piston port injection and that the reed valve didn't show up until the RT2 in '72. So I must assume someone changed the intake block to a spigot mount with the reed valve just like my '74 DT360s have.

    Any advice on if I should leave the reed valve in place it or put back to original - or does that depend on the piston that's installed?

    Confused in Florida.

    Roger

    img

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    Hi. Finally figured out my problem. It is all about the spacing. The previous owner of this bike replaced the clutch with a new clutch but they were not the correct plates. I must have re-assembled it 20 times and nothing changed. The rod was not stuck. I was completely lost and about to buy a different engine. Then I checked the old clutch plates which the owner had provided with the bike. The metal plates were identical but the new fiber plates were slightly thicker. I removed one fiber plate put everything back together, re-adjusted and went riding. Hope this helps you. Bill

    I was starting to think along the same lines as far as the clutch plate thicknesses. Glad you got yours working. I am going to check mine for the same reason. I'll leet you know..

    Roger

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    Friday night. 10:00 PM. I think I know the problem with mine although its not pretty. Removed the clutch basket down to just the shaft at the clutch side of the cases. With the bearing and external rod removed i attempted to remove the long internal rod with a magnet. When I did it moved the entire shaft with the rod. First time I had noticed this. I think the internal push rod is stuck to the clutch shaft. Hope not do not want to split the cases as this engine runs pretty good.

    I just realized your DT was a "75 - I didn't notice before. The clutch on the 1974 DT's didn't have the ball between the pushrods. Earlier and later years all seem to have the ball. Your long rod is a little different than the 74's. Other than the rod shape and the ball, they seem to be identical. Let me know how it works out if you can get the old shaft out. I didn't have a chance to open mine today to measure my rod length.

    If you need to look at diagrams try this link,:http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt250b-19751976_model8548/partslist/

    Alot of the other parts lists don't have alot of the DT fiche for some reason.

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    Sounds identical to my problem. i also took the pressure plate off to check the rods. I also took the actuator out like you did. If your clutch pressure plate doesn't move when the lever beneath the engine is pulled forward, it's not a cable problem. From the shop/ service manual and comparing to my other DT, the clutch pressure plate should engage with only a movement of only @ 20 degrees - from 10 degrees to the rear to 10 degrees forward. I think our long rods are too short. Can you measure yours? Or did you put it back together? I can get to my non-working one pretty easily to measur. I'll let you know.

    Roger

    FRONT SUSPENSION SPACER

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    Just a quick one,

    Has anybody ever increased the length of the spacer at the top of the front suspension legs to make the suspension stiffer.

    As using a thicker oil would only slower the rebound im thinking of inreasing the length of the top spacer with washers or a longer tube to harden the downward pressure,

    Anyone with any thoughts or tried this.

    What bike are we talking about - Year and model...

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    Your 250 should be identical to my 360"s. I'll measure the long rod tomorrow - I believe it should be 6 3/4" long.

    Roger

    Sounds identical to my problem. i also took the pressure plate off to check the rods. I also took the actuator out like you did. If your clutch pressure plate doesn't move when the lever beneath the engine is pulled forward, it's not a cable problem. From the shop/ service manual and comparing to my other DT, the clutch pressure plate should engage with only a movement of only @ 20 degrees - from 10 degrees to the rear to 10 degrees forward. I think our long rods are too short. Can you measure yours? Or did you put it back together? I can get to my non-working one pretty easily to measur. I'll let you know.

    Roger

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    I am having the exact same problem on a 75 DT250. I have taken it apart to the clutch plates to expose the push rod end. I removed the bearing and checked the internal rod. Everything looked good so I re-assembled it. Still wont engage. I removed the actuator from the bottom of the engine and cleaned everything. It appears to be beveled at the contact point and is adjusted by rotating a cam type threaded adjuster. I adjusted it all the way down for maximum contact. Still wont engage. Tomorrow I plan to change the cable in case someone before me put too long a cable on it. If that doesn't work I guess I will need to split the cases and see if the internal rod is damaged. I think the 250's and 360's work in the same manner. If you succeed will you post the outcome? I will do the same. Thank you Bill

    Your 250 should be identical to my 360"s. I'll measure the long rod tomorrow - I believe it should be 6 3/4" long.

    Roger

    DT 400 Magneto

    in Classics

    Posted

    Good day All,

    My question is: how interchangeable are parts from a DT400A (1975) with later year DT400's? I need a new magneto and flywheel but eBay seems to be offering mostly parts from 1977 and 1978. Can I use later model magneto and flywheels on my '75?

    Cheers,

    The Menno

    The dt360 from &$ should have the same flywheel and coil plate...

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    I just had a look on bikebandit site, looked at 1973 DT3, it shows a ball !! not sure its relevant to you, it was only ever a guess but still sounds like something is missing

    Look at the clutch schematic for a 74 dt175 - it shows the same as my manual drawing - no ball..unlike the 73's and earlier ones. For some reason, all the microfiche file for the 74 DT250 and DT360 are messed up and unattainable - Don't know why. Go here for good clear pictures of yamaha parts drawings :

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    so no bearing anywhere then in the manual?

    Nope, no bearing - just the rounded end of the rod acts as a bearing. I was hoping to avoid taking my other bikes clutch apart to see the rod in it - but I'm almost curious enough to do it.

    I can email the schematic if you want to see it. By the way...sorry about your bike - hope you get it back.

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    Yip " the pushrod is in 2 parts , the ball is in the middle , [allows spinnig of clutch] ;)

    Yes, the push rod is in 2 parts, but the schematic shows no ball between them. Instead, the end of the long push rod is rounded to fit into a depression on the short one to allow spinning. I still suspect the long rod somehow got damaged - it is flat on the sprocket side end, and I think it is supposed to be rounded there as well... I scanned the page from the service manual but can't seem to paste it into this window - it shows no bearing between the rods.

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    you could try adjusting the clutch adjuster on the opposite side cover from the clutch plates, should be the side cover that covers the front sprocket. you should loosen the nut, then screw the screw in until it hits the rod then tighten the nut to make it stay. might be covered by a rubber cap, might be underneath the plate, but I think that it's your problem. o6xroh.jpg

    I have adjusted the adjusting screw all the way in and it still won't move far enough to move pressure plate. I even took the push lever axle out to check it, and it seems fine as well....

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    The thing is...you dont know what the previous owner did..is there a ball i assume there is in your manual. you will have to drain the transmission oil and remove the clutch cover case i suppose, then pull off the pressure plate to gain access to the rod and bearing.. :(

    I pulled the pressure plate and used a magnet to pull long rod out. There is no bearing between the 2 rods. The long rod is flat on the lever end - is this correct? The rods move when the lever is moved forward, but not far enough to release pressure on clutch plares? Could my rod be too short from wear?

    6V dt headlight

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    After looking for a while for a 6v headlight for my old DT's - I found that the NAPA store at the corner sells them. #4020 is the common number - NAPA's number is - LMP4020 - list price is @ $29.00. My local store sold me 2 for $43.00! My Yam dealer wanted $73.00 for one.

    1974 DT360 Clutch pushrod

    in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes

    Posted

    sounds like something is missing...like a ball bearing perhaps!...Just a guess...

    I was thinking the same thing, but couldn't figure out how it could happen. An way to check without cracking the cases open? I just got it running after 2 days of cleaning out a mouse nest in the air cleaner, cleaning the carb, and cleaning all the coil and flywheel surfaces. It almost took my leg off(decompression valve didn't engage - had to pull the cable by hand - will fix next) but it fired up and sounds strong!

    This is my third resto on the '74 360 and I've never had this clutch problem....

    1974 DT electric problem

    in Yamaha Workshop

    Posted

    There are very few fuses on the DT's but yes there should be a main battery fuse, they are generally part of the battery lead/connection.

    Its just that is the first place i would look, you have lost ALL of the battery fed items. I would bet the horn doesent work either. The only easy connection between all of these is the battery and its associated connections.

    Failing that you will be looking inside the headlight with a multimeter.

    Thanks or the help. You are correct, the horn doesn't work either. It must be a faulty ground or fuse-link. The way the lights/horn stopped working so suddenly.....

    Roger

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