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RogerD

YOC Member
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About RogerD

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 07/18/1955

Previous Fields

  • Current Bike(s)
    1974 DT360A 1971 R5 1972 R5 1971 RT 360 1970 DT1 - RED

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  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Florida-SW
  1. Thanks for the help! The seal popped right out with the screw just into the metal face of the old seal. Now I'll do the Magneto side and see if it runs a little smoother.. Roger
  2. Got it!!! I was fooled because the old seal looks different than the new one. The metal was part of the seal. Do I need to put some sealer around the outside lip of the new seal before pressing it in?
  3. Sorry for the delay - I've been trying to put a photo in here for half an hour...... What I'm talking about is not the seal itself, but a big copper-colored washer keeping the seal in place right? I have a new seal, but not a spare washer..... Still trying to post a phto from photobucket - drives me nuts!!!!
  4. Finally felt good enough to work on the bike. I am trying to replace the clutch-side oil seal on the crankshaft. I have the clutch removed. I have the nut and gear removed from crankshaft. I removed the large c-ring, and It looks like there is a large washer behind it holding the oil seal in place. I,m afraid to just start prying on it. It looks like there is a sealant of some kind around the outer edge of this washer. Advice??? Thanks, Roger
  5. Had another case of Congestive Heart Failure last Thursday.... Got out of the hospital last night. I'd still be there if they decided to do the bypass surgery.... Felling better, may even do the oil seals this weekend!!!! Rog
  6. I think you'll need most of the harness if you want to use a key. At least the wiring to and from the rotor, the cdi, rectifier, coil and main switch - or a kill switch if you want to set it up that way Roger here's a basic wiring component photo.... http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt250b-19751976_model8548/partslist/F-05.html#results
  7. Thanks for your help! I've never changed them this way before. The bike runs, but kinda rough and I always like to get them running well before starting restoration work. Hopefully the seals will do it. I didn't do a leak test, but suspect that's the case... Roger in Florida
  8. Haven't been here in awhile...had another bout with congestive heart failure that kept me down for a bit. Ready to start on my restoration - 1970 DT1. I know we've been over this all before, but i need to replace the oil seals. Can I just pull them off the ends of the crankshaft without splitting the cases, and just press the new ones in? Any tricks or advice? A good source for the seals other than ebay? Roger
  9. Thanks - Ireally learned some things on this one. I was wondering why my pictures were not larger though. It would make it much easier to see details. Rog
  10. If anyone else has this problem, look at the thread in the workshop section. It might help someone. - Roger
  11. Thanks for the input everyone. As you can see, when I took off the clutch basket, the two change levers ( #'s 2 & 3)were out of sync - or "untimed" . When replacing the shaft seal on the lever end of the change shaft( # 1), when the "e" clip is removed, it's easy to push the shaft towards the clutch side. When this happens, the change lever (# 3) on the end of the fork shift guide bar (# 4), which is spring loaded, snaps down out of position. I think I have them in phase now - there only seems to be an alignment mark on lever # 3 - the dot right in the center, just to the left of the yellow 3. It seems to shift up and down fine now, so unless anyone has an objection, I am going out to the shop to reassemble the clutch and cover. Thanks to everyone who had input here- and HAPPY NEW YEAR! I learned something today, so I count it as a good day - Roger
  12. Never worked on a TRX always thought they were cool, but almost never see them in the states...Always had a thing for big twins having owned a BSA Spitfire for my first bike! Rog
  13. Here's what it looks like. The torsion spring looks to be in the correct place - yes?I did take the cam stop screw out of the bottom of the trans case to help drain the oil. Now I can't get it OUT of gear? Do I need to take the clutch basket off? Roger
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