TTHJames

hi, are you still looking for a battery cover? I just stumbled across this guy who's selling some bits including both side covers in green. http://www.gumtree.com/london/07/40734207.html James.

I just replaced the sprockets on my '98 SR125 with a plus 2 front and less 1 back. I found the lack of acceleration irritating and I only got and extra 5mph out of it so I changed back to the standard front sprocket (14 teeth). Now when I accelerate in the lower gears it seems to take a while to get going but then when it kicks in the acceleration is still pretty good. What I am wondering is; is it because of the less 1 rear sprocket or could it be something to do with the clutch adjustment (I just replaced the disks and readjusted the clutch)? Cheers, James.

I think what I'm going to do is remove each bolt, measure it, then replace it and order them all online or from the fasteners place near me. If I do this before you do yours I'll send you the list. If you use an impact driver on the screws you should be able to get them out cleanly, go up to your bike shop and if they haven't got a few of them replace them with the old ones until you can find them. I've had my crankcase and sprocket cover off several times in the last week or so and was able to use the rubbish old screws. Also if you take yours out I would recommend going to a fasteners rather than a bike shop as they will almost certainly have all the ones you need. James.

Is there a list I can get with the details of all the bolt, nut and washer sizes, lengths e.t.c.? Are they in the Haynes Manual? Cheers, James.

I can get a dremel in but not side on, but I'd use the drill with a long drill bit if I had to drill it out. I think I'm just going to wait a few days for the welder. Cheers for the replies.

Hi, the 2 allen bolts that attach the exhaust to the engine are in very bad condition and have rounded off slightly so that an allen key won't grip. There's not enough room to get a bolt remover drill bit in there because the pipe is in the way. I've tried mole grips which only just fit on the bolt and slip even if they are on as tight as I can get them. There's not enough room to get an angle grinder in there to cut a slot in the head, also the dremel won't fit to do the same thing because of the angle, although I could get a milling bit in but obviously cutting a slot that way is going to be very difficult indeed. I thought about welding a bar on to the bolt and getting it out that way but I don't have a welder and it would be a few days before I can borrow one. I really, really don't want to drill out the bolts but I think that's the only way I'm going to be able to do it unless I wait a few days for the welder. Has anybody got any ideas? Cheer, James.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'm gonna sort it tomorrow , I just hope it's only the friction plates and not the steels that are shot. Also I had already figured out the thing with the brake shoe residue so I'm gonna sort that too. Cheers.

Thanks, that's a really helpful link. I read somewhere that if I lay the bike on it's side it will keep the oil in, is that worth doing or should I just let it drain out?

Yeah the sprockets definitely OK, I took the cover off so I could see if there was any movement at all, also I had it up on the centre stand so I wouldn't have gone straight into the field at the end of my driveway (there's a fence between me and it so that would hurt), I think it is probably the clutch but I'll check again anyway.

There's no crunching so it isn't the gear box, thank god. I can let the clutch all the way out in first and second so I reckon that must be it. Also good idea about filing the shoes down, I thought about it but I thought they'd be alright once they were on and I didn't want to shorten their life. Is it a big job stripping down the clutch? I'm good with bikes but don't have much experience and I don't get my book of lies for another couple of days.

I just replaced the chain and sprockets on my SR125 and did the brake shoes while I had the back wheel off. The brake shoes where tricky to get in but I was told it's normal for them to be quite tight. I put it all back together and started it up and the back wheel was stiff which I expected because the shoes where tight, so I gave it a bit of throttle thinking that it would loosen up, the back brake was as loose as it would go but still connected. And it did turn the wheel so I thought I'd take it up the road but when I started moving it stopped after a few feet and now there's no power getting the the back wheel. I can put it in gear and accelerate on the stand but the wheel doesn't move like it did before, the front sprocket doesn't even jerk like it would on the biting point if the wheel was seized, the power isn't getting to the front sprocket, I tried putting it in second and it's just the same. I'm worried I've screwed up the gear box by putting to much strain on it, or possibly the clutch, any ideas anyone? Cheers in advance, James.

Hi, the chain and sprockets need replacing on my SR125 and I was thinking of changing the gear ratios. I ride at full throttle a lot on main roads so I though maxing the top speed with the sprockets I could find easily would be a good idea. I can get a -1 rear and a +1 or +2 front. I spoke to my Dad about this and he said if I make the front bigger I will have problems, I think he was mainly referring to the space inside the sprocket case. But I've had a look and there's plenty of room for just 2 more teeth in my opinion. Has anyone else done this? Do you think I will have any problems? Any comments would be appreciated. Cheers, James.