Ardy

Thanks for replies. Becaue my bike has the original CDI unit fitted and would have been geared up for the 5 wire servo, will I have to change the CDI to operate the three wire? If so is a straight swap. Having done some research it appears that you can just simply give the three wire unit an ignition feed and then a pulse from the CDI and it should work, gave this a go, can now get the unit to go through what would be the cleaning process, but cant get it to move when increasing the revs, Anybody know where to pick up the pulse? it should be according to what I've read via a yellow and blue wire from the CDI but this is not the case. So this is whats leading me to believe the CDI unit has to be changed. Any Ideas Ardy

A friend of mine is rebuilding a 2004 Dt125re, the bike was bought as an incomplete project the engine fitted is a 4GW which I think is a TDR. The engine runs and sounds sweet but the only problem we have is the YPVS system dosn't work, It originaly came with a 3 wire servo that didn't match the loom, so we aquired a 5 wire plugged it in, nothing, The wiring loom looks to be the original and we've checked it for condition & continuity. What I do want to know, is if there should be power to the YPVS servo when the ignitions turned on, so that it can go through its cleaning process, if so ,where does the power come from ? my guess is the cdi unit. The CDI incidently is situated under the fuel tank and is secured with a rubber band affair, three plugs go to it, one of which is the YPVS servo. Could it be the wrong CDI unit. Any advice would be great. Ardy

Hi Jim Thanks for all your advice, I managed to get myself a DTI gauge and some fag papers, set the timing as per your instructions, second kick it started. You'd da man Thanks Ardy.

Hey pugrsvmille Iv'e got to agree with you once you've been bitten by the LC bug its hard to forget them, 2 yrs ago I tracked my 1981 bike down and finally bought it back last June, it had changed alot from when I sold it back in 1986, although thankfully its still got its original engine. Its now undergoing a full nut and bolt restoration, and in the not to distant future it'll look as good as it did when I sold it 23yrs ago. enjoy Ardy.

Hi Jim Iv'e been connecting a light, It dosent go out like it did doing points on the old cars that had them it just simply dims when the points start to open. I have a few DTI gauges but not the tool to hold it into the cylinder any ideas where I can pick one up? Thanks Ardy

Hi Jim My DT50MX (82) is a very early bike and isn't fitted with with a side stand switch or neutral light switch that would inhibit the ignition. I,m gonna have to recheck the ignition timing I think, trouble is I dont have the DTI gauge to insert into the spark plug hole, Iv'e been doing it with a vernier depth gauge. Am I right in thinking that at 1.8mm btdc the points should start to open?, then at maximum lift they should open fully to around 0.35.

Hi All I have checked the resistance of the primary and secondary windings of the ignition coil, they appear to be ok. earlier posts suggest that I check the ignition switch and stop switch, this has been done and their fine. Earlier today I removed the source coil and checked the resistance of that its well within the +-10%. Re the woodfuff key, it is fitted and the flywheel dosen't spin on the crank. Does anybody have any idea what AC voltage I should expect when I kick the bike over? Regards a very depressed Ardy

Hi All Thanks for the info, I checked and double checked the timming and the points start to open around 1.8mm btdc, and the points were cleaned when fitted. The main earth from the battery, (black wire) is fixed to one of the igntion coil securing bolts, and the coil plugs into a black and white wire its this wire from the stator that I'm getting voltage from by simply kicking it over. Whats so odd about this fault is that I've taken a perfectly good stator and flywheel from a friends bike, fitted it to mine and nothing happens. I'm well aware that these engines don't rely on battery voltage for ignition, so It should be so simple. To my way of thinking providing that I don't have the points going to permant earth, a spark should occur when they start to open. if the points are going to permanent ground it begs the question why?. The wiring loom is in excellent condition no sign of it ever being opened and you certainly cant get the plugs wrong. I should add that I have dissconected the harness completly and isolated everthing else, I've also tried using single wire from the stator to the ign coil , thus isolating any of the wires from the lighting coil and neutral light. Also Cynic, good point you made about manually operting the points to create a spark, I have actually tried this, no spark at the plug and to a lesser extent nothing at the contacts either. Regards Ardy

Hi Yes, the points, plug condensor and cap have been replaced, both the ignition switch & the handlebar stop switch have been tested too. I have noticed since my last post, that disconnecting the stator plug from the main loom and connecting a test light the generator will create power, plug it back in and try nothing. I know that the coil has to be earthed to the frame but in doing this, the generator will cease to create any power at all. Thanks for the reply Ardy

I have just finished restoring a 1982 dt50mx, the problem is I can't get no spark, I've changed the Ignition coil, points, condensor & plug, Iv'e had the source coil rewound, carried out various cont checks, still nothing. The inline diode that goes between the coil and stator has also been replaced. Iv'e conected a 24v test light to to check the output from the stator it seems to be producing current but I think its not enough to generate a spark. I've also tried a stator from a friend bike that I know works, still no spark. The ignition switch and the stop switch have been checked for any short circuits, Iv'e even tried with them dissconnected. Iv'e run a seperate earth lead direct from the battery to the engine casings, incase of earthing problems from powder coating. All the multi plugs have been checked for corrosion, Iv'e dissconected all the lighting harnesses incase any of them have gone to ground, the list is endless. Any ideas? Regards Ardy.