YZF_Rider
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Posts posted by YZF_Rider
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Sod it Im too late .............
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looks ok but I liked the blue from last year
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Renagade where loud also D & D
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I might try D280 RR this year.
if so then I will have a D207RR for sale
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got the factory kit manuel showes how to and what to do to make it like a factory ride
can e mail it if u want a copy I did have the option once of buying a ex boost team works engine and a load of ex works parts
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I think that is Gary McCoy.....if memory serves me correct......Laconi didn't join that squad till the following year :wink:
Nakano on the end, looks like a little kid there
wrong its laconi.
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hi ya all!!!
now can any one help i have a 94 yzf750 and few small problems
with the clutch.when first go out it can be very sharpe and bite
really suddenly but few miles up the road its fine..
braided hose in place of o.e and ive changed fluid couple of
months ago(dot 4)..
cheers for any advice..
if your going for the race look fit a cable clutch.
remember this Yamaha when they raced YZF 750's always fitted a cable clutch
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Hi all,
Right i'm thinking off some engine mods over winter now i'm
running a full system no exup on it with a k&n and set up on dyno
running about 115bhp.need some tips on some cheap way of getting
more power???Any thoughts??
Heard of putting thunderace top end on or what about fzr 1000
top end???Any one tried this or done some think similar.
Also the famous oil burning now using about 1litre every 1000miles
ish depends on how hard the ride was out.
Whats the best part to renew as don't start doing rings and its
usually the valve guides for example..
thanks for any help dave....
mines doing just over 100 and its standard !! seems a lot of work just to get 10 to 15 more let alone more over that !!
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may be buying 86 ypvs,it is fitted with microns dont know if it is jetted to suit as yet but thought about f2 pipes instead,unsure about running probs and fitting,any help or suggestions would be a help......Guv
they should fit and work ok.
mounting points are the same.
microns would be a better choice and you can always muck about with jetting a little to improve it
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Quick warning though. Do not replace the ones holding the screen to the fairing. They should be made of plastic plastic and are designed to shear as your body passes through the screen.
Doesn't really make sense because you are then doubtlessly going to hit something much harder.
Last time I did it I ripped 6" of skin between my torso and pelvis with the clutch lever (called a laparotomy apparently). Pity you can't hold the handlebars on with plastic bolts..
yes like he said OUCH
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Hi again,
more questions!! I've just about got my bike up and running, (XZ550, 1984) and I've hit another small problem.
The original mudguard had a fork brace built into it, but as Ive replaced the mudguard without a brace in it, I'm wondering if I should put an aftet market set on, the type that clamp to the forks?
I've just been told that its not really necesary by some one, but I'd like some opinions please....
If I need to, where could I get some?
Cheers
If its anything like a LC you do notice the differance when a fork brace is fitted ( well I do anyway)
bike will brake better for a start.also think of this if Yamaha desgined it to have one then thats a clue....
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I would have thought the answer would be in how much you weigh and how you like your bike to handle.
I preffer a medium to heavy oil using genuine Yamaha seals as pattern ones seem to leak.
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I use either castrol chain wax or putoline wax stuff
or just fit a scottoiler
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DID ANYONE SAY STEM SEALS
keep an eye on the oil level yes very important ..............bit like a 2 stroke...cheak oil before every trip lol
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Managed to pick up a bloody great nail in my rear tyre the other day so im goner replace both the tyres on my 750 as the fronts nearly worn as well.
Does anyone have a recomendation whats good to put on these bikes,im not bothered about milage just want em nice and sticky
when I got mine it had bridgestones on it
I changed to Dunlop D207RR.......wow what a differance...seems like s diff bike now...mush better !!!
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hi can any one help i have got a k plate yzf750r that won`t rev over 4000rpm while moving and sounds like it is hitting the limiter it coughs and spulters but if at a stand still it will rev right out has any one had this prob before or knows what it could be it was running fine before and just went all of a sudden
I had this happen once,
I fitted a micron end can.when it was a cold day it would make the bike run lumpy and when you revved it the bike souned like it had a miss fire.on a warm day the micron works fine
so I changed the end can and the problem went.
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Hello, I've got 1995 YZF 750R (import) don't know where from though.. doesn't seem to want to rev above 9-10k without spluttering and missing, idles rough as well but goes great in between..? Only recently got the exup working, has improved mid range and not so much of a flat spot at 3k, new plugs and caps, (they were shorting) but still hasn't made much of a difference, and carbs have been balanced..alledgedly
Anyone out there struck this before or no of any reasons and cures...? i'm stuck! cheers Pete
has it got a dyno jet on it ? are the carbs set corectly? if its an import depending on where its come from has the carbs got the correct jetting ?
when was the valve shims done last ?
might be none of these things but might be worth doing some cheaking
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can e mail it if u want a copy 
HEATED HANDLEBARS
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
Yea I got oxford ones too