nedj10

Hello my fellow riders, I was not sure what the proper location of this post would be so apologies if this is the wrong forum, however given that there are new laws in Georgia that other states are looking at following that we are asking ALL riders to join us on the steps of the Capital and let them know the riders are not second class citizens that can be pushed around for their tax revenues. A.B.A.T.E. of Georgia PROTEST RIDE over MOTORCYCLE ONLY ROAD BLOCKS! Here is the information on the Protest ride: When The Ride itself will be on March 23rd 11:30 AM until 1PM ...There will be no official staging areas outside of the ride destination itself, if Districts want to organise there own meets please do so and distribute to your members if you send those meeting locations to [email protected] I will post them to this event page here. Parking Parking will be along Washington St. in front of the capital building IN BETWEEN the streets of Mitchell St. and MLK Jr. Drive. The Following speakers have agreed to make presentations on the Capital steps: *****Update*****Additional Speakers presenting!!!! Ahmad Ali President East Coast BadBoyz Motorcycle Club Donnell "Bolo" Eppinger Head Chair of the Georgia Council Don Hodges President of The Georgia Sons of Liberty Randy Snyder President of Full Throttle Magazine Tom McGraff Motorcycle Law Group Sharon "Lady Ninja" Cancel Co-Executive Director National Sportbike Association Chris Jourdan Motorcycle Alliance Georgia Linda Allen Legislative Director A.B.A.T.E. of Georgia Dan Forrest State Director A.B.A.T.E. of Georgia Steve Murrin, The 'Original Biker Lawyer' - Official Legal Counsel to A.B.A.T.E. of Georgia ***UPDATE****Confirmed Meetup locations**** We have confirmed to Meeting locations for Riders on the North side of town: EAST SIDE MEETING LOCATION: James Hall and District 5 will be meeting at the Walmart parking lot at Fairington Rd at Panola Rd. They will be there at 10:00am, Kickstands up at 10:45am WEST SIDE MEETING LOCATION: District 4West will be meeting at Atlanta Harley Davidson 501 Thornton Road, Lithia Springs, Ga Kickstands up at 11:00am Sons of Liberty let us know they will be meeting up at Cumberland Mall located just inside of I-285 on Hwy 41, in the southeast parking lot, alongside Hwy 41. From I-285, take Hwy 41 south 1/4 mile to 2nd light. Turn right into the mall parking lot. Look to your left and you should see a gathering of patriots with colors and flags flying. Kickstands up at 10:30 am. Arrival at Georgia Capitol building about 11:00-11:15 (depending on traffic). Paul Kerr from District 6 has confirmed the following Southside Meetups at Walmart Parking lot locations: 6065 Jonesboro Road, Morrow, GA (Just off 75) 2940 Anvil Block Road, GA (Just off 675) Kickstands up at (approximately) 10:45am at both of these locations For Intown Riders, Koffee from Steel Horse Stables has let us know a group of riders will be meeting at the Varsity parking lot Kickstands up at 11:00am MACON MEETUP: Delmar from District 7 will leading the Macon group, They will be there at 8:00am Kickstands up at 9:00am

Hey everyone I am putting my Seca back together after a deer collision. So far just about everything is back except one thing..the speedo. I was wondering if anyone can give me some pointers here, The speedo seems to be "slow" never showing above 30mph...I checked the cable good...I picked up the instrusment cluster..nothing sounds loose...I put a 1500 rpm drill on the cable and spun it up and the speedo did the same thing got up to about 30mph and then thats it. Why I am wondering is, is it possible for the wheel assembly to go bad from a low side lay down? It seems awfully simply mechanical... anyone know any next steps before I go to the speedo shop? at 200 bucks a pop I am trying to avoid that if possible thanks Ned Williams

Hi everyone I am putting my seca back together after hitting a dear, when I cut the shredded grip of the thottle tube the of the tube was shattered. I looked on bike bandit and found a replacement unit for 40+ bucks and given that most bikes have replacement tubes in the 8 to 15 dollar range I was wondering if anyone knew of a generic that will work on the XS400? thanks Ned Williams 82 XS400R

After digging through schematics I found (3) relays on the seca 1 identifies itself as a flasher relay and the other two are just listed as "relay" both appear to situated just under the seat and are 2 square relays with 4 wires coming out of them. judging by the direction of the wires I think the right side one has wires pointing towards the headlight. So now a simple question how do you test them? at 70 bucks a pop for a new one I would like to make sure its the broken part before ordering them? thanks! Ned Williams

The light comes on when the key is switched to the on position. Where is the headlight relay located? I havn't seen any relay's in the headlight bucket? thanks Ned

Hey everyone the headlight on my xs400 seca went out last week driving down the road and I cannot figure out why, I currently have the bucket off and the wires all splaid out I have checked every connection I can think of, I have multi metered the light socket wires and see voltage and a good ground, but no head light, I also checked the headlight switch and jumpering it gave no joy either. If I wire the light straight to the battery both filments will light up if I put positive to each on respectly. Any ideas would be super appreciated. thanks Ned Williams

Ok I found the bolt, pulled it, oil dribbled out in a nice steady stream. Now the odd part, the noise started up and with the bike in the garage at idle it sounded like it was come from the speedo? I pulled the light and the gauge back, and disconnected the speedo cable..no noise? Put it all back together, and its been idling for 15 mins without noise...I will take it out for a spin in a bit to see if I can get it to do it again. odd Ned

Not to sound stupid but how? pull the tank pull the head cover and see if oil squirts onto the valves? thanks Ned Williams

Help please! my seca has started making a whirring noise I can best describe as the sound a loose powersteering belt makes on car when the seca's engine revs. I thought it might be the oil I was running not working well with our winter temps so I changed the oil to a 10w30 non synthetic and it quieted down for a day or two but has come right back, the noise sounds like its coming from the cylinder side of the engine but as its internal theres no real signs I can diagnose. any ideas would be helpful thanks Ned Williams

Hey everyone I want to try adjusting the preload on my monoshock but cannot seem to find the c-tool needed for it. Anyone know where I can find one state side. thanks Ned Williams

Hey everyone, I have gotten my Seca tagged and running and she has been doing ok around the side streets until this weekend. While driving down the road she stalled I got it safely to the side of the road and started checking things I noticed two things 1) no matter how hard I tried she would not go into neutral. 2) on top of this it the side stand switch seemed to be closed no matter whether the stand was up or down. Tonight I pulled the headlight and the seat checked all my connections, pulled the clutch cover checked the neutral switch and all the electrical connections and after manually switching the gears with my hand on the lever to neutral she started fine. despite bouncing the bike around I could not get it to replicate the problem. Seeing as how the side stand switch runs 66 dollars on bikebandit , as compared to every other switch which is about 18 I just wanted to ask is there any known issues with the switch? I noted the boot on the piston on the switch is pretty cracked but it doesn't appear you can order just the boot. any advice is appreciated, thanks in advance as always Ned Williams

Hi Jim, Shorted hot means the circuit was shorted to always be hot, the previous owner ran a jumper wire from the key switch brown (12V positive wire) to the return wire of the kill switch on the wiring harness as to make the bike think the kill switch was always on. also the Tag is the License plate tag not a technical problem, a beaurocratic one not a problem anyone can help with just an excuse to hand the government more tax money thanks Ned Williams

She's back and running like a champ. not sure exactly WHICH option fixed the problem but here is what I did today. 1)pulled the tank,(wow easier than I thought it would be) 2)checked the wiring I could under it pulled the two transistor looking device directly under the rear tank bolt, reseated. 3)remarked at how IMPOSSIBLE actually getting to the coils must be. 4) with the tank off I was able to actually detect spark with the timing light, apparently the extra insulation on the wires was blocking it(on the part of the wire that travels over the head) 5)pulled the plugs..sure enough they were quite fouled looking. being that it was 10 pm and the nearest parts store still open is 20 miles away I took sand paper and electrical connection cleaner to them. 6)re-installed them, the bike started 7) taped up the wiring with the kill switch still active i.e. the previously detected short-jumper wire I left the wire in existence with the connection broken and capped off(trying not to push my luck here) 8) Put the headlight back on, and took her for a test spin still don't have my gauge lights and I managed to break one of the two tabs off on one side of the fuse that feeds the headlight but it still connected good enough for a quick 1 mile test run. and yes I will replace those plugs as soon as I can get to the parts store . tommorrows job will be to get her a tag. thanks for the help Ned

Thanks Jim, the short on the kill switch was discovered when I got the bike running and noted that no matter which position it was in, the bike would fire. Upon further examination I found someone had run a jumper wire from the red-with white stripe-wire that makes the loop of kill switch, thus the switch always appeared on or was shorted hot. I worked out that it work before as I had the bike running when the short was left in place, when I removed the short that is brought the kill switch back into the circuit the bike would crank but no spark was getting out from the coils to the wires. Replacing the short, If found the same condition now existed a bike that would crank but would not fire. I will try to get the tank off tonight and check the voltage/impedence at the coils, what do you mean by safety switch? And yes this is a DOHC 1982 xs400 Seca apologies for the lack of clarification earlier. thanks, Ned Williams

Almost forgot, I checked the spark with a timing light on each spark plug wire, no flash from the light when trying the starter thanks Ned

Hello everyone. My seca will not fire. I took the headlight out and noticed the previous owner had shorted the kill switch hot off the brown wire coming off the Key-Switch. I broke the short and the kill switch works, but the bike wont fire, I put the short back and the bike still will not fire. I replaced the battery made sure its fully charged, and still no fire I put a voltage meter on the rectifier, and the CDI box, both have 12.7 or so volts in but no spark is coming out of the spark plug wires. Not sure what to check next, I havn't checked the coils yet as I still havn't go the tank off. Is there something simple? I have checked every wire, every connection and every ground wire I can find and every thing seems to be as expected. Is there a method for debugging the voltage coming out of the ignition to the coil? All of this of course was in my effort to determine why my gauge lights do not work and they still don't work. thanks Ned Williams

The tires are tubeless thanks guys. As for the guage lights, The fuses are all fine, and I took the seat and headlight off and started chasing wires, I think I might have found the problem but thought I would ask if this sound familer. Under my seat I found a three wire quick connect, with one blue, one black, and one color I canot remmber. Next to this connector I found a black, I assume ground wire with a double-female bullet connector. the three wire quick connect has a black wire coming from the harness in the direction from the fuel tank, but it has no matching back on the other side of the connetor. To make mtters more interesting there is only 1 male bullet connector in the dual-female bullet. The three wire quick connect when disconnected breaks the circuit to the tail light. I am wonderig if the missing blade on the black wire in the quick connect should be going to a short jumper over to the missing male bullet connector. I tried to run a temporary jumper but it did not seem to have an effect on the gauge lights. thanks for everyone;s help. Ned

Hi everyone, Apologies for my constant string of newbie questions but I have got my xs400 seca running, shifting and breaking now as desired. But I think I am down to the last two things I need to make the bike a safe machine( safe ride sounds like something that could spark argument) so question 1 Both the front and rear tire appear new, no dry rock cracks, plenty of tread. But they both have a slow leak. By slow I mean if I air them both up to 40 PSI, the will be down to 30 in 2 nights. The tires are Bridgestones a Battlax in front and a moto something or another in the rear. So I can know what to budget for how do I tell where the problem is? question 2: With everything else (except the tires) working as designed the gauge lights will not illuminate, and just the bulbs behind the speed and tach, I already replaced the bulbs with new ones from the yamaha dealer, and went as far to put a multimeter on the wires down to the quick-connect behind the head light and found no voltage, is this a common issue with the XS400? I tried to find the wires of the same color under the seat but the only wires with blue/grey pair goes to the rear tail light and it appears to be working as expected(brakes lights as well). Any help is appreciated, I have the haynes manual but before I started chasing schematics I thought I would ask. thanks Ned Williams

Hi everyone, I got my seca running, got the clutch sorted out. and took it up and down the street for the first time tongiht. One thing I noticed was the rear break pedal travels what seems like 3/4 of a foot MUCH worse than the bike I had in the mSF class. What is the correct adjust ment here is it adjusting the screw at the end of the rod that connect the pedal to the drum or do I shift the arm actually connected to the drum that the above mentioned rod connects through? all help is greatly appreciated thanks Ned

Hi all, my new clutchpack should be here tomorrow. I noticed when working the clutch with the old clutch pack off the push rod was only shifting about 3mm when the clutch level is depressed fully with the adjustment scew set to the max depth I could set it and still get the lock nut on it. Does this sound right? does anyone know how much throw the clutch needs to move to correctly dis-engage> thanks Ned Williams

HI all, A friend of mine in Denmark has an 87 XS400 Seca that has of all things a small front fairing to wrap around that ginormous head light. Just wondering if (a) anyone has a source for said fairing and ( if it could be easily retrofitted onto an 82 Xs400 Seca the bikes look EXACTLY identical except for that one peice. thanks Ned Williams

I pulled the clutch plates last night they came aparrt wihtout too much issue, but they looked to be in pretty good shape only one of the metel discs the third one from the basket base was a little blued. I am wondering if the pushrod or the ball bearing behind it is damaged. the push rob travels freely in and out of the housing about 2 mm's that to say it does not come out and free it just moves in and hour without resistance 2mm. At the moment I am trying to figure out how to remove the outer clutch basket piece. I considered using an Impact wrench to spin it off, but not sure what damage that would do to the transmission. any advise is greatly appreciated Thanks Ned Williams

Ok I pulled the crank case cover on the clutch side, and find myself looking at the clutch assembly. Do you mean the push rod that engages the with the clutch cable assembly(the splined rod that seat into the spring loaded mechanism extended by pulling on the clutch cable?) or do I need to pull the clutch basket to inspect the side of the splined push rod form that side. thanks Ned Williams

Hello everyone I just got a XS400 Seca for my first bike. I have been wrenching on the bike under the guidance of the Haynes manual and the original Yamaha Shop Manual. But I have run into a problem with clutch I cannot solve. It seems no matter how tight I adjust the clutch cable the Clutch does not seem to be disengaging from the drive train. I tried setting the slack to the prescribed 2 to 5 mm will little to no effect. I have also tried setting to the as tight as I could twist the screw/locknut combination but each time I squeeze the clutch lever and try to shift down to first the bike stalls. Excactly the way it would if I had not even touched the clutch lever. SO my question is this the sounds of bike needing a new clutch basket? New clutch springs? I have seen a bazillion clutch baskets on ebay but they are all used, I assume due to lack of new parts. Do you normally buy the basket as a complete assembly? Can you buy the individual components of the clutch assembly as needed? thanks in advance Ned