little dave
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Posts posted by little dave
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ok, now im just showing off....
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ok. I got bored and did it at home.
here goes (insert massive slurping sound as bandwidth dies across america and europe)
blue with blue wheels
blue with green
blue with red
blue with yellow
ninja green and green
ninja green and black
focus orange and black
focus orange and orange
teal
pink
brown
cameoflauge
any other ideas? bring em on!
photoshop -
can do. will do tomorrow.
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Hey ppl, if anyone is a dab hand at photoshop feel free to help out
ok how about blue?
or what I call "the rainbow warrior?"
any other color thoughts you can ask, im a pshop wiz.
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feets, don't fail me now.......
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lemme guess:
Chest thumper MC?
or the "L" plate rebels?
so, all those smaller bikes like the cruizer and rocket, they are under 50cc? thats kinda cool.
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the mask is defo a good idea, I have done sandblasting with a larger rig and it gets everywhere. breating the stray sand may not be super harmful, but i still wouldnt want to.
also the mask keeps you from "exfoliating" exposed surfaces of your face.
if i were to sandblast anything for more than 10 minutes i would probably don a skimask just to keep the stuff out of my ears and hair and such.
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Thanks for the reply, Little Dave. I appreciate the guidance, but as you suggested, I'm gonna wait a little awhile and see if someone who truly knows helps out. I just wanted to add a bit to my initial post: I don't believe I actually "loosened" the lock nut. When I turn it to loosen it, I get resistance from the spring device. When I release, the nut turns back to its original position. I haven't turned it any further to actually loosen it. Hope this makes sense...
yeah it does. ok so lets assume that when you turn the nut, thats loose, and when you let go it snaps back to tight with the aid of the spring. like a doorknob or the tension adjuster on a serpentine belt. what about turning (and holding) the nut while then adjusting the screw?
and as again, wait for a pro.
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Quick question - Might the cable have stretched a bit?
If so, either adjusting it in and/or replacing the cable could be all that's needed.
Always check and replace the cheapest parts first!!!
good idea Ttm
I didnt even think of that.
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Thanks Jim.
Ive just been out to try and get it moving and it now wont engage 1st with out lurching forward and stalling.
Cheers Pete
rev it up a bit more in neutral, hold on and dump it into first.
dont redline it first off...as you will end up getting a reverse cowboy from your bike.
try 2k rpm (I assume it idles at 1500)
just keep reving it up a bit more each time. until you get it rolling.
or: you could "bump start" it.
get it rolling fast, downhill if possible, and with the ignition on, dump it into 2nd. then drive off.
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my guess (and this is just a guess mind you) is that you loosened up the adjustment nut just enough to allow the cable to slip. (imagine it like the adjuster on a bicycle hand brake.)
but dont believe me about much... wait for an actual expert here to tell you.
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and merv takes the lead with an incredible burn.
better get some aloe-vera on that foamy.
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Nope thats it all done at around 7500, the engine ( new) peaked at around 6500rpm with 16bhp.
thanks cynic. so, it would be ill advised to exceed that point when running thru my lower gears then? (7500?)
I understand what you say about it peaking at 6500, as the fastest ive been is 68-70 mph in 5th gear, at 7000.
but it seems to still have pull thru first and second above the 7500 line. I have only just noticed this fact last night though so its not a bad habit that i will have to break. I usually shift at around 7k.
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having a remote for the horn is quite fun! on my suburban, my alarm has a output for the trunk release, hold the button down and the wire gets current until you let go of the button. bear in mind that i have an onboard air compressor and a 2 gallon tank hooked to a set of 24 & 26 inch airhorns like the ones on a peterbilt.
my alarm has a 1000 foot range and so i can scare the pants off of people nearby with ninja like stealth.
although remote start on my dt175 wouldnt work... onless the setup includes a robotic leg for the kickstart.
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on my 1974 dt175 the tach has a marked off area at 7500. unfortunately its faded to pink from the sun. is that where my redline starts or is there some orange area first.
right now when i ride, i only take it to just below the "pink line"
what is the recommended max rev point?
thanks.
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I dont mean to sound like a nag, but since you have 2 flashers that dont work, perhaps try taking apart one like i desribed earlier. at this point you really have nothing to lose by doing it.
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If you stop looking into them, they will stop breaking foamy.
I suggest a polished stainless steel replacement panel. that way, you can still admire your mug.
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bwaaahahahahaha!!!!
all foamy would get if he tried would be a hurt ankle and a sore ass!
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Couple of quid for some black spray paint - Instant Rat bike!!
thats what i did!
worked for me.
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welcome bri.
(sorry for the instant nickname there, I had a cousin named brian and we all called him bri.)
anyhow. good luck with your project.
I'm rolling on a 74 DT175 myself and im stateside so we may be able to share some resources (not that i have many) what year is it? I (or others here) may have a link to the repair book.
where are you located?
most likely, you need the coils rewound. the flywheel with the magnets in it is fairly rock solid.
but i would also bet that its something really much simpler.
as for gofast mods, lets start with just plain go. after you get it running go from there. you may find that it does very well. right now my dt flats out at 70 mph. and I wouldnt really want to go much more than that on it. its completely stock. the carb is junked and has no main jet, and the manual says that about 65 is its top speed......
cant beat an old Yama!!
photoshop
XJ600, Poss Colour Change
in The Bar
Posted
you wish is my command bark.