little dave
-
Posts
387 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Yamaha Racing News.
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Classifieds
Posts posted by little dave
-
-
how bout a jacket patch that says "girl bike delivery service"
i suppose some patience and a rattlecan are just completely out of the question?
seriously. if you prime and sand with 400 grit and paint slowly in thin layers with a decent brand, you can experience good results. also you can use a clear overcoat for that deep rubbed look.
-
-
-
male, 38, near las vegas nevada.
enjoy photography, fabrication, taking stuff apart, breaking broken things, photoshop, and of course: riding.
-
like these?
-
as long as she's gentle i dont mind
hey Goff, cute puppy! btw.
could you take foamy with you when you take it for its shots and obedience training?!?
-
will do mate, is it a tough job to remove the whole shaft and replace it?, would i need to take the clutch and all that other stuff off or is it a case of undoing a few bolts and sliding it out?
I dunno, never done that before.
-
I cant view it. damm bbc all copyrighty and stuff, wont let us yanks view thier shyt.
(love listening to bbc1 though on my pc)
-
foamy-
why dont you ride out to goffs house, knock on the door, and when she answers, point over her shoulder so she turns around and looks, then; slap her on the ass.
that would probably get you killed sooner........
-
'cus then i wouldt be able to move the shaft, lol
well, that would kill a few birds with one stone..... make sure it stays in a mid gear.
good luck. lemme know how it comes out.
im one of those self fabricators (to a certain extent) if you ever need an idea, feel free to pm me.
-
now that's a plan, ive got a mate with a welder, will have a word with him tomorrow and see what he says
also, i think the oil seal is letting go because oil is starting to seep out along the shaft, would this affect the welding?
shouldnt, just clean the shaft with a rag first. the oil will most likely vaporize as the metal melts. make sure that you ground to the lever when you weld, that way the current wont go wayward through your engine. not that that would be bad, but wouldnt want to take the chance that some tight clearance item like a piston arcs and welds itself to something else.
while youre at it, why not weld that pesky leak closed?
-
foamy, you could also take your "fiver" to a muffler shop or other place that does welding. and ask one of the fellas there to tack weld the lever on at the outside in a few places. offer him the "fiver" under the suggestion that he can use it to buy a pint or two.
later when the correct part can be located, the welds can be filed or ground off, releasing your lever.
-
cut apart an old inner tube and wrap the shaft once around with that. then put the selector back on and tighten.
the rubber will help keep it from slipping, as long as you dont stand on it.
-
forgot this one:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F3l6bxs85g
(sorry)
lets not forget "int the summertime" by mungo jerry... either.
-
blackhat: "skinnard" does "sweet home Alabama". youre right about that. but, summer breeze is done by "Seals and Crofts"
carpenters! FTW! I tend to get a bit lumpy in the throat when i hear her sing.
summertime. lulz I love that song also. although i like "you saw my blinker," off that album much better.
ok heres a link for you:
-
sounds like it could be the flasher unit itself.
i dont know about yours, but mines a thermal contact unit.
occasionally the points will get carboned just like engine points. I use a nailfile.
also on mine, the "can" that holds all the guts crimps around a circuit board of sorts that holds the points. a wire leads off the points assembly and to the top of the "can". I assume that it holds a capacitor. the "can" then grounds to a metal contact on the circuit board at a crimping point. I have found carbon buildup there as well. clean and recrimp.
my flasher unit is $150.00 at the dealership. im sure that i can find one cheaper on fleabay, but......
-
http://www.asseenontvguys.com/index.asp?Pa...&ProdID=380
I will swear by this product till I find a better one.
has helped me remove my fubar flywheel cover screws with no effort. also the bolthead that holds the rear brake cam onto the spindle broke on my bike and this tool was ready to tackle the job. there are 4 tips to choose from so if one dosent work, the next larger one usually will.
completely reuseable, It has become the most valued item in my toolbox.
-
Please be aware if you stumble across a dead short an unfused wire will get VERY hot VERY fast (you can weld with a battery) so an inline fuse is a must.
It seems a little basic but it has worked for me on several occations.
seems that in my life that i have used that method by accident on my cars.
"follow the burned, melted wire. where its not melted anymore.... thats the short point."
I seem to remember a time when i was traveling with my dad in my suburban, my speakerbox in the back tipped over as i pulled into traffic. the power lead (8 gauge) yanked out of the amp and welded itself to the first ground point it found. the music stopped and the whole truck filled with smoke as the insulation fried off of the unfused cable, it took seconds. lesson learned.
i invested in one those circuit breaker fuses. (well worth the cost, as they reset themselves)
oh yeah thats the point of this rambling. you may want to buy one of those reseting breaker fuses when you do all this testing, better than making a pile of blown fuses. while youre at it tie an LED in line with the breaker. if the led lights, you know you have a complete circuit. if the led goes out, you know the breaker tripped or that you dont have a complete circuit. you may be able to jiggle your harness with this hooked up and look for a flicker of light from the led that could show a ground fault. and the breaker makes an audible click when it trips.
-
seriously though, if you post a pic.. we could help.
-
make certain that the 710 cap is secure before you start.
-
-
your chain is stretching.
as it goes around the sprocket, it interlaces with the teeth. if the chain is new, the distance between the links matches the gaps between the teeth on the sprocket. as the chain stretches, the distance between the links lengthens, while the distance between the teeth on the sprocket remains the same.
so, as the chain starts its journey around the sprocket everything is lined up, but as it travels around the sprocket the nano distance that the chain has stretched on each link adds up and it will be tight to the sprocket tooth by the time it comes around the other side.
take a look at your chain/sprocket. look at each end (where the chain starts in and comes out of the rear sprocket) now pull on the chain away from the sprocket. my bet is that it will be loose at one end and tight at the other.
my bike did the same. why it does it in reverse is beyond me.
I oiled my chain really good and the popping stopped. but thats a poor substitute for a chain replacement.
-
could it be possible (that im an idiot) that the cat converter is clogged?
just a dumb thought. I dont know if cycles even have them.
-
A plea!
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
that's what "friends" are for!
seriously though, your "mates" did keep you from breaking down someplace on your trip.
wouldn't want the RAF to consider you A.W.O.L. before you even start.
imagine having to start basic after pushing yer dt there...
of course it would break in second gear so that you would also be holding in the clutch the whole time you pushed it, and would arrive with a nasty arm/hand cramp.
(what can I say, "I'm a optimistic pessimist." : "I know shyt is gonna go wrong!")