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Derek Herbert

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About Derek Herbert

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/12/1965

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  • Current Bike(s)
    Yamaha XJ 900 Diversion

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    Male

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  1. Hi, I have a Yamaha XJ 900 Diversion S (1996) and the guy who I purchased it from had put on a lowering kit which are the shorter suspension link arms. I wish to put it back to the bike back to its original spec but I need the size of the original link arms. Does anyone know the dimensions of the original link arm, All I need is the distance between the link arm holes. I can work out the remaining sizes. Thanks Derek
  2. Ok, I have rechecked the haynes manual - next problem - How do ap bolt as I cannot hold the shaft tight enough to undo the dammed thing. I am guessing I may have to go via a garage at the moment
  3. I am trying to renew the Fork seals on my 97 Yamaha SR 125. I have removed the circlip and washer and the Haynes manual then says I need to hold the fork body in a soft vice and forecably remove the ram from the housing. The thing will not budge, am i missing something. I have tried heating up the housing, burning out the old rubber seal in the process. I have even rigged up a pulling system with a Garden Post, Garden Wall, Rope and a pulley system. To say I put the ram under a lot of pressure to remove it from the housing is an understatement. The ram will not budge from the housing, what am I missing? Derek Herbert
  4. I have a question regarding the Carb on a Yamaha SR125 1997 Model. There are three pipes into/Out of the carb: 1 from the fuel tank 2 Out of the sump which just dumps directly out to ground. 3 There is a third I have noted in a diagram which is situated on the opposite side of the fuel inlet pipe but I do not know where this terminates (is it similar to the overflow sump and just hangs loosly or does it actually fix to somewhere? regards Derek
  5. Hi everyone, I have a 89 SR125 which is having problems with the idle speed. I have checked the Timing, Chain Adjuster, Tappet gaps (Inlet 0.05 mm, outlet 0.15mm), Air Filter Cleaned. There is no air getting into the system. The carb has been cleaned to an inch of its life, all holes blown and cleaned). The pilot screw has been loosley seated and turned out 2 full turns (throttle free play well within limits. I have started to adjust the idle screw and the engine will happily idle at 2400 and above revs but as soon as I start to turn out the screw to reduce the revs then the engine will stall and die. I can run the engine happily but as soon as I come to a stop in traffic or junction I have to keep the throttle open. Any help, please.
  6. Mark, I have an 89 model and I am having very similar problems. I have done all of the stuff you have mentioned. My problem seems to be air getting into the carb inlet rubber due to it being perished. I am trying to get a new one online but finding it very difficult to get. Seems I was going round in circles trying to diagnose the problem. It was not until I looked closely at the inlet rubber (between the carb and inlet manifold pipe) that I noticed there were several cracks in the hose. I applied a little of pressure to pull the hose apart to see if the cracks were bad for the hose to completely come apart in my hands, it seems the hose was a little more perished than I thought. I hope this helps as I have had many headaches with the idling. Now to try and get a replacement hose.
  7. Hi, I am new to Yamaha owners club and I have just picked up a 97 SR125 (24k on clock) and the engine is a little noisy. I adjusted the tappets which took care of part of the noise and the engine started to sound better. I then adjusted the timing chain tensioner by screwing in the adjuster until the adjuster piston is flush with the top of the adjuster nut (as per mister Haynes). Q1. Should I have adjusted the timing chain first then the tappets? Q2. The problem is that the adjuster nut had to be screwed in so far that there are not enough threads for the adjuster cap to fit onto (normally the adjuster nut would have 4 or 5 threads showing to fit the cap onto). This probably means the timing chain has stretched or the timing chain guides are worn (maybe a mixture of both) does the chain and follower require a change at set intervals? Q3. Is there an easy way to change the chain and guides as it looks like I need to do a major strip just to remove the chain guides? Q4. I have found the timing chain easily enough on-line but I am having a great deal of trouble getting the timing chain followers (one each side of Exhaust and Intake). Does anybody know where I can get a hold of the followers on-line? Loads of questions but I really really love this little bike and want to give it a some TLC and get it sounding as it should. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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