plain old dave

The clutch push rod on the 400 broke, and of course nobody has one in stock. I have officially decided to upgrade to a newer XS650 with low miles soon as I can afford it. Course that might be a while. Official theme song for this quarter: "Hard Times Come Again No More" by Stephen Foster. Thanks for lettin' me vent.

Uh, that's the way a kickstarter is SUPPOSED to work (Place foot on lever, kick HARD). Apparently the XS400 kickstarter isn't designed to be USED regularly. "Put a foot on the kick and wack it through" is EXACTLY how Harley people with non-electric bikes start 'em and I have never even HEARD of a broke H-D kicker. I have tried what you're talking about, and as I said it works more often than not if the bike's hot, but cold all I get is sweaty and tired. However, if I use all the travel of the lever she'll take after 2-4 good hard kicks. Nevertheless, I'll try what you're saying (swing 'er down til one of the pistons starts movin then try and kick without relieving pressure on the lever) in the morning.

Define 'jab at the kickstart'. I have to use the entire stroke to reliably start the bike cold, and even warm only using the part of the stroke that has resistance works more often than not. Bottom line: the only way I have found to reliably start this bike is to use the entire stroke. Before you ask, the points and condenser are new, the carbs are recently rebuilt and the float level is right, the plugs are less than 6 months old and the only ignition parts that aren't new are the wires and coils. I am getting good reliable spark so those can't be the issue.

I managed to get another one, but I want to make sure this don't happen again. Best way I can explain what happened is for the reader to bring up the e-fische of the 1978 XS400E kickstarter at yamaha-motor.com. Part 13, split where it goes around Part 11. Accordingly, as the kick lever itself wasn't properly attached to its base, I couldn't kickstart the bike. Please don't try and tell me to bump start the bike as after 18 years of riding I have concluded that bump starting a cold bike is as much an urban legend as getting a bike on a center stand with only one person. I found a billet kickstarter for a Ring Ding (RD) at this link: http://www.hvccycle.com/Kickstarter.htm Questions: 1) Will this work on the base I have? 2) Would I be better off getting a local machine shop to make me one up out of a much heavier duty metal than whatever cast stuff Yamaha used? 3) My bike doesn't have an electric leg and I really don't trust them anyway. I cut my riding teeth on a Harley and never even heard of a broke kickstarter. Is this common, uncommon or did I just hit the lottery o' broke parts?

Can't figure out how to search for it, but somebody recently mentioned a big bore kit they saw for an XS400. Kawasaki pistons, maybe?

Got 'em out, the #53 automotive bulb is a direct interchange. As an interesting aside, bronze swingarm bushings in back and 30W fork oil up front make a world of difference; handles like a different bike and I feel confident riding 5-10mph faster than I did before.

Tried to slide the thing out of the cup that holds it and it wouldn't come all the way out. Was afraid I would break something. If it's the same one the three indicators on the panel use, I believe those were #53's. NAPA has 'em. Noted Athens. A good friend of mine got married at OU a few years back.

Tried all sorts of wiring bypasses on the Green Machine, and no joy on the headlights. Tach lights work fine, so I think the last speedo light finally burnt out. Best I can tell, I have several options. 1) Replace lights in extant gauge 2) Used gauge 3) NOS gauge I have a line on both used AND NOS XS400 speedo gauges, so finding a new one ain't a prob. I don't mind spending moeny on this bike as I like it. Question, though, is is it even possible to replace burnt out illumination bulbs on the gauges? Not worried about 'em being hard to find; if they exist, I'll find'em. I am busily launching a hard-to-find bike parts business here locally.

Probably no later than Monday, the Green Machine and I will have done 10,000 miles together. Just thought I would share.

Couple options... 1) Move to a state like here in TN that don't have county income enhancement, I mean inspection.... 2) There's a place that advertises in Wal-Necks that has or will make forks for ANYTHING, I think it's called "Forking By Frank". 3) Fork gaiters like on an old Triumph. What they can't see won't hurt 'em. 4) Ebay. I see good XS400 forks there all the time.

Seconded. If you have good wires, good bulb and a clear passage to the switch, you got a defective switch.

Saw a '78 RD400 at a local cruise-in Saturday night with 4.10-18 Dunlop K81s on it, I think. Didn't see any sign of interference (raw spots on tires), but they DID almost look out of proportion. Given that both 3.00-18s and 3.50-18s are difficult to find in quality tires on this side of the pond, what's the next conventional size up from 3.00-18? I like a slightly narrower tire on front than on back, and if the ol' K70 is still made in 4.10-18, that's what's going on back of my XS400E next.

The Yamaha guy don't know what he's talking about. Tried it on mine without tubes, and when it got cold the back tire wouldn't hold air. Put a tube in and it worked like a champ. Don't be surprised if your tires won't hold air in the winter.

Was watching this episode with my wife Saturday evening. I think it's a Trailmaster 90, but ain't sure.

New tires AND new tubes is always the best advice.

Thoughts: -I run a ribbed Cheng Shin 3.00-18 on front and a Cheng Shin K70 3.50-18 copy on back, and the Green Machine tracked like a bullet all the way to Jacksonville and back (@1200 miles on the road). -If you're running a tire designed for the *front* on the back, that will make handling SQUIRELLY to be charitable. The bike will tip in to corners quicker, and won't be as stable on straightaways. Some tires are rounder than others; the K70 is almost square in profile and thus is interchangeable. I know for a fact that Bridgestone Spitfires aren't interchangeable, for one.

My mechanic had 'em laying around.... They greatly resemble what came on CL/CB 350/360s in the early 70s, though...

Better quality pix. Enjoy!

Lookin' for a source for some affordable ones that don't look like they go on a dirtbike... Thoughts?

Medium.

River Road bags, were on sale at Cycle Gear a couple months ago. A bit too deep, as the right one melted to the pipe on the road. Long as you keep decent clearance, you should be OK, though.

Stock sprockets. More often than not, @50-55mph. Bike seemed most comfortable there on the state highways.

Day 17: The Conclusion. Made it back home last night, good times through 4 rain showers. My jacket weighs @ 2-3 pounds more than it did the other day. No malfunctions on the road. None. Observations follow: -GA 60 North of Dahlonega is a decent road, just a good bit of gravel to watch out for. -MPG is still superb; 60+ through the North GA and South TN hills. -All told, I had a blast out on the road, and highly recommend touring on Old Iron as long as you're mechanically competent.

Day 16. Well, I am on the way back home. Another Autec det and reserve annual training in the can. It was absolutely boiling out today; was over 90 most of the afternoon, and I got rained on three times. I may have solved the oil leak; one of the bolts on the left cover was a hair loose and I tightened it with a speed handle as to avoid the possibility of wringing off the head or stripping it out. Observations follow: -Still getting @60mpg. I wonder what I'll get once I get back up in the hills of good old Tennessee? -The bike seems to be a mite more sluggish toward the end of the day. Might JUST be time for a new top end. -Tomorrow is the short day and I will be taking it easy. There's supposed to be a vintage bike shop in Dahlonega, GA; I might just have to go see if they have anything.