YPVS TONE
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Posts posted by YPVS TONE
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As Airhead has said there is a groove in the shaft to enable the plate to turn to locate the bolts. It never seemed to be a good design as even with the bolts tightened against the plate the sprocket is still loose on the shaft. Think Honda also used this idea to hold on their front sprockets on some models.
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With the plate flush against the sprocket as in your photo you should be able to turn the plate slighty to the right until the holes line up for you to insert and tighten the bolts.
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It is also recommended to make sure the battery is fully charged when new before you put it on the bike otherwise it will never reach full capacity and will shorten it's life.
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If it's at the bottom of a lake the engines probably flooded !!!
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These are were fitted as standard to my RD350LC2 and the manual says:
Standard pressure = 5.7psi
Minimum pressure = Zero
Maximum pressure = 11psi
I used to run them at zero psi but now run them at 5psi as it does reduce the sag on the forks and makes it steer better. The only thing I have done is fitted a balance kit from M and P which keeps the pressure equalised between the forks. It is also a lot easier when checking the pressures as Yamaha say the pressure difference between the forks must not be more then 1.4psi. You only need a cycle pump to increase the pressure. If you use an airline you will blow the seals.
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If it is an 1978 E model, engine number : 1A3-110101 and on they should be black as here http://www.aircooledrdclub.org.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=869
but they did a 1979 F model, engine number 1A3-330101 and on which had Red wheels.
Tony
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If you want to lower the gearing to give you better acceleration but a lower top speed you want to reduce the teeth on the front sprocket or add teeth to the rear sprocket. And to raise the gearing to give you a higher top speed but less acceleration you want to add teeth to the front sprocket or reduce the teeth on the rear sprocket. The standard gearing is usually a compromise between the two so you don't want to go too much either way and also make sure when changing sprockets that there is enough clearance for the chain under the sprocket cover. Usually adding or reducing one tooth on the front sprocket is roughly the same as taking or adding 2 or 3 on the back.
Tony
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On the UK spec XS400 with DOHC the pilot screw is at the front of the carb looking down from above. You may find it has an anti tamper plug fitted over it as usually they are preset at the factory and shouldn't be altered.
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Yer I seemed to be a bit confused over the lettering as well. I know they did an RS100 and RS125 but the RXS100 didn't come out till 1983 and had CDI ignition. the YEIS system i.e boost bottle and a Ram air type cylinder head like the old Suzuki GT250. Photo of RXS100 : http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=RXS100&hl=en&sa=X&biw=1007&bih=493&tbm=isch&prmd=imvnsfd&tbnid=8_wtRMjTgvuVkM:&imgrefurl=http://www.motorbikespecs.net/index.dyn%3Fflag%3D2%26model_id%3D5793571%26make%3DYamaha&docid=DTJ73w-q1yavYM&imgurl=http://www.motorbikespecs.net/images/Yamaha/RXS_100_95-97/RXS_100_95-97_1.jpg&w=1024&h=768&ei=2BhyT5CTJtTm8QPeg7Fg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=106&vpy=144&dur=828&hovh=194&hovw=259&tx=182&ty=123&sig=103239836223560543333&page=1&tbnh=139&tbnw=194&start=0&ndsp=8&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0
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Just found an old copy of Mechanics magazine from December 1983 when they tested the RXS100 saying that it had a claimed power output of 12bhp which was what the restricted 125's were limited to. Tested top speed was 73.07mph prone and 67.31 upright with a standing start 1/4 mile of 19.1s @ 63.1mph. Average fuel consumption 65.8mpg. The only things that let it down were the lights as it only had 6 volt electrics and the drum brakes front and rear.
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A healthy chain shouldn't have any tight spots Try lubing the chain to see if it free's off making sure you get lube down each sideplate of the chain on each side. If it stil has bad tight spots you need to replace the chain and sprockets as a set as Ryan09 has said. When adjusting Do Not adjust the chain at one of the slackest areas, do it at a tight spot.. If you adjust it at a slack point, when the chain comes round to a tight spot it will put extra strain on the gearbox output bearing and rear wheel bearing.
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I had an RXS100 when they first came out and would say that the one on the paper is not the right one. It looks very much like a Honda one. As DirtyDT say's are you sure it hasn't got a different engine in it .Can you put up a picture of the engine and a picture of the kickstart shaft. Can you confirm the year as the RXS100 didn't come out till around the mid 80s or have you got an earlier model RS100 ?
Tony
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Not sure what Pod filter you would need but personally I would leave the standard airbox on otherwise you will probably find you will have to start messing about with changing the carb jets to get it to run right. If you remove the LH plastic sidecover below the seat it looks like there are four screws that hold on an access plate on the airbox to get to the airfilter to clean it.
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Just had a look in a manual for the SR250 and it shows the smaller stub for the vacuum pipe that goes to the inlet manifold on the tap at the 9 oclock position and the main fuel pipe to the carb stub on the tap at the 6 oclock position. Is this the same on yours ? If you disconnect the fuel pipe and have the tap in the ON or Reserve position you should have No fuel coming from the tap but if you turn it to PRI or Prime you should have fuel coming out. If you have fuel coming out of the smaller vacuum stub on the tap it sounds like the diaphragm in the tap has split. Make sure you don't leave the tap in the PRI position as this should only be used when filling an empty carb .Normal use the tap should be left in the ON position.
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Regarding the brake light was it working ok before you changed the lever ? Could be if it is an after market lever it's not pushing the little plunger in on the switch. You could try taking the lever off again and spraying some wd40 or contact cleaner in the switch to see if that helps free it off.
Do you mean the neutral light stays on even when you put the bike into gear. If so it could be a pinched neutral wire touching earth behind the LH side engine cover, look for a single plain blue wire near the front sprocket and make sure it hasn't been pinched.
Seem to remember the SR250 had a vacuum operated fuel tap so the main fuel line to the carb should fit on the big stub on the bottom of the tap and there should be a smaller stub on the tap for the vacuum pipe that comes from a stub on the inlet manifold.
Tony
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According to the Genuine manual the ignition timing is not adjustable but you can check it. Remove the smaller inspection cover on the LH generator cover and conect a strobe light to number 1 spark plug lead i.e LH cylinder. Start and warm up engine for a few minutes and check idle speed is set at 1,100 - 1,200 RPM .Point strobe into inspection hole and check that the stationary mark set in the inside of the inspection hole is within the two lines on the moving generator rotor.
Tony
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Could you tell us what year the bike is or post a picture or as Cynic suggested the first few digits of the engine / frame number. Does it have twin shock rear suspension or monoshock rear end.
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Hi Matt
If it is only a 6 volt system I think you will find that the lights were designed only to come on with the engine running as they are powered by lighting coils on the stator. With the ignition on and engine off you should have power that works the horn,indicators,brake light and neutral light. If not as cynic say's check connections and earths (plain black wire on Yamaha's) and make sure the main fuse is ok.
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If it has a drum rear brake make sure that the torque arm that connects to the backplate of the rear brake is tight as this is what stops the backplate turning when you apply the brake. There is usually a special bolt that goes through the backplate and torque arm and is secured by a nut with an R clip or split pin to stop it coming right out.
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I’ve got an old Yamaha Technical Service Bulletin about this problem on the XT550 that was sent out to Yamaha dealers by Mitsui who were the UK Yamaha Importers at the time.
" POPPING AND BACKFIRE ON THE OVER-RUN"
This is a normal characteristic of this type of large capacity single cylinder machine and we regret that there is no practical way of altering this. In this case you need not worry that the backfire is caused by incorrect ignition timing or faulty C.D.I but if the backfiring seems more than normal double check the pilot screw setting is suitable for the particular bike.
To check this warm the bike up and turn in the pilot screw till the engine runs roughly ( eight strokes ) and then turn the screw out again till you get maximum R.P.M. Test drve the bike and see if it is better. If it isn’t screw the screw in half a turn and test it again. You will find that by doing this you can find the best setting that allows least backfiring but still allows the bike to idle properly.
Hope this helps. Tony
P.S
Also check you have no leaks in the exhaust joints as this can also cause popping on the over run.
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Look for the spec " JASO MA " on the bottle which means it's compatible with Motorcycle wet clutches.
Tony
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On my powervalve 350, 5psi is the standard air pressure, 0psi is the minimum and 17psi the maximum. When checking make sure there is No weight on the forks i.e: with the front wheel off the ground.
Tony
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Is the battery ok and charged ? Check to see the main fuse hasn't blown.
fitting new front sprocket???
in Yamaha Workshop
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