YPVS TONE
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Posts posted by YPVS TONE
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The data I have says FZR1000 1989-1995 oil change only qty 2.7 litres and with filter change 3.0 litres so you may have to add a bit. Remember to run the bike to circulate the oil and to fill up the filter housing and when checking the level the bike should be on level ground with the bike upright NOT on the sidestand. As DirtyDT has said I think you will find the Max level is indicated by the upper line to the right of the sightglass and the minimum mark is the bottom of the "U". So providing you can see oil in the sightglass and it's not above the Max line with the bike upright you should be fine.
Tony
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Also worth checking where the tacho cable goes into the camcover as from memory I think theres an oil seal for the tacho drive.
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The picture of the one I posted which I think he has fitted to his XJ is Not automatic in that you have to set the engine to the required position, loosen the locknut and loosen the bolt which is shown in the picture. This releases the rod under the spring which pushes against the camchain slipper to take up any slack in the camchain. You then tighten the bolt and locknut to lock the rod in position.
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If it is the standard Yamaha one I think it will look like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1982-Yamaha-XJ550-XJ-550-Maxim-Timing-chain-tensioner-adjuster-/260964558820?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc2b327e4
which was fitted to quite a few inline four cylinders like the XJ550, XJ600, XJ650 and XJ750 models.
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The adjustment is set by setting the engine to the requred position using marks on the ignition rotor and crankcase under the LH engine cover. You then loosen the locknut on the tensioner and loosen the tensioner bolt. This releases the rods inside the tensioner which are under spring tension to take up any slack in the camchain. You then retighten the bolt and locknut to lock it in position. Don't think you will find there is any measuring of chain slack as the chain tension is determined by the spring/s in the tensioner body.
The R1 and R6 models use a fully automatic camchain adjuster which automaticaly sets the camchain to the required tension.
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You will need to take the head off to adjust it properly so whilst youre there you may as well check the valves as well.
Some people do it by ear but you will risk wearing out the chain guides prematurely if done too tight.
Once adjusted though it should be good for another 5000 - 10.000 miles.
I take it when you say you need to remove the head you mean the cam cover ?
You shouldn't need to remove the cam cover to adjust the camchain providing everything is ok but obviously you will have to to check the valve clearances.
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PM sent
Tony
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There's a couple of pictures here of the Wrangler / Whichbike Pro-Am bikes.
http://www.rd350lc.net/pageCUP.htm
Tony
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According to the NGK catalogue I have the CR6HSA and CR7HSA should both be 10mm thread diameter and 1.00mm pitch denoted by the "C" at the start of the code. The difference in the two plugs is the 6 and 7 which means the 6 is a softer type plug which will run hotter then the 7 type plug.
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How did you clean the plugs ?
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Think you will find that the screw adjuster is eccentric in that if you screw it in or out it moves the shift lever that "Hooks" on the pins on the end of the selector drum to the left or right. Seem to remember you put the bke in gear and make sure the gap between the left and right hooks and pins are equal. If not you undo the locknut and turn the eccentric screw in or out until the gaps are equal. Hope this makes sense. Tony
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Are you checking the oil level with the bike stood upright or lent over on the side stand ?
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Found this conversion chart which the 10V unrestricted version works out at 15.95 HP
http://www.aqua-calc...t-to-horsepower
reboot
Just out of interest could you see what the id mark of your carb is which is usually on the RH side of the carb stamped just above the oil inlet nozzle of the carb. The only reason I ask is that I have a Yamaha Service Data book that lists the same carb data for the 12W and 10V models i.e
Carb Type / Manufacture / I.D Mark = VM24SS / Mikuni / 10V00
Main Jet = #80
Jet Needle / Clip Position = 4J13 / 4
Needle Jet = P-2
Cutaway = 2.0
Pilot Jet = #20
Air Screw = 1 1/2 Turns Out
Float Height = 21mm + or - 1mm
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Just been reading an old Yamaha Technical Service Information Bulletin that was sent out to dealers regarding the power output of the DT125LC MK1. It says that the 12W ( Restricted) and 10V (Unrestricted) are basically similar but utilize different exhaust systems to alter the power output.
12W = 9.0Kw uses 12W-14610-00 Exhaust
10V = 11.9Kw uses 10V-14610-01 Exhaust
Tony
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Can you check to make sure the woodruff key is located correctly in the flywheel and crankshaft ? If you remove the flywheel nut and washers shine a torch up the end of the crank to see if it looks located right. If not you will need a flywheel puller to remove the flyheel.
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Is the oil level correct in the sight glass with the bike standing upright on level ground ? Does it leak with the engine running or if left standing ?
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That doesn't look right. For the centre adjuster to be screwed in that far I think you may find either the camchain is badly worn or the camchain guides have worn or broken. There should also be a cover that screws onto the threads of the centre adjuster but because it is screwed in so far it won't fit on.
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The picture in the bulletin looks like it is under the tank. It looks like the Black/Blue wire is in the wires from the CDI unit just behind the block connector on the wiring harness side.
Tony
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According to the data I have XJ600 up to 1990 takes 269ml of 10W fork oil per leg.
Tony
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Just found a Yamaha Service Bulletin ref TDR125 Engine Power Modification which mentions about turning the powervalve anti-clockwise until the dot aligns with the lower edge of the allen bolts and also removing the Black/Blue open ended wire from main wiring harness and to fit a ring terminal to black/blue wire and earth to regulator/rectifier mounting bolt.
Hope this helps. Tony
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The Yamaha service data book says RS200 From 3L2-000101 1979 - 1982
Pump Min Stroke 0.20 - 0.25mm
So as you say it is the same as the RD200
Tony
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I think that is only if you are stripping the forks to replace the seals etc. Surely it would be just a case of removing the forks from the bike, removing the top cap and springs and turning the forks upside down to drain.
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That link doesn't appear to work
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Can you put a link up like you did with the flywheel ?
Help please; yds3 rebuild question
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
Looks like there are some letters by each screw which would correspond to rge coloured wires. Can you tell what letters they are ?
Usually Yamaha wiring colour codes are :
R = Red
B = Black
L = Blue
R/Y = Red/Yellow
G = Green
Y = Yellow
W = White
O = Orange
Ch = Dark Brown (Chocolate)
There are more but these are the basic ones
Tony