YPVS TONE
-
Posts
477 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Yamaha Racing News.
Media Demo
Store
Collections
Classifieds
Posts posted by YPVS TONE
-
-
What bike is it for and is it the standard carb ?
-
Isn't there a grommet and cutout in the plastic oil pump cover that the main feed pipe goes through?
The oil pump cable should connect to the throttle cable via a junction box underneath the fuel tank.
-
Although you say the fuse looks ok have you checked it with a meter or tried another fuse? As blackhat250 has said car batterys have a bigger amp rating then a bike's and you could do some expensive damage jumping it from a car battery.
-
As Airhead has said, make sure the battery is in good condition with enough distilled water up to the Full mark on the side of the battery. Do the meter lights come on when you turn the ignition on without running the engine? If not make sure the main fuse hasn't blown.
Tony
-
1
-
-
What year is the bike? as it looks like the early ones with the round carb top did have a screw in float valve seat and the later flat slide carbs were held in with a screw and retaining plate.
-
Yamabond 4 is what Yamaha say to use in their workshop manual for the LC crankcase joint but Threeebond 1104 is the same product
Tony
-
There's one on here if thats what you mean only it's Blue not Black http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SR125-Left-Hand-Side-Panel-Cover-VERY-DARK-BLUE-VDBC4-/400509434233?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item5d4038f979#ht_2737wt_1003
Tony
-
I know some of the earlier Yamaha's used a ring terminal that fitted under the indicator retaining nut/washers on the inside of the headlamp shell and a "Male" bullet the other end to plug into a Black Earth wire in the loom like this : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-Yamaha-Wire-Earth-Lead-842-83571-00-/120487908777?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c0da395a9#ht_508wt_721
Tony
-
Just had a look on the Yamaha UK site and downloaded an owners manual and as you say all it say's is " If the auxilliary light does not come on, have a Yamaha dealer check the electrical circuit or replace the bulb". Which isn't a lot of help. Looking at the parts catalogue it looks like the bulb holder just pushes into the back of the headlamp cowl but not sure how easy it is to get to. Have you got a dealer near to you who you could ask ?
-
There is usually just the one Positive Red lead and one Negative Black lead coming off the battery.
-
Did the fuse blow before you turned on the igition switch? If so as dt502001 has said check the main Red lead going to the battery to make sure it hasn't worn through and touching earth. If it only happens when you turn on the ignition switch you need to check for shorts on the Brown wire from ignition switch. You may have to lift the tank too check the wiring and also check any wiring around the headstock area.
-
Hi Twinjet1077
Just checked on a parts list for the YL1 and yes your right it doesn't show a lock washer fitted like some of the other models. Don't go made when you "crank" it down as remember the case is only alloy and you may pull the thread out.
I have sent you a personal message ref manual, just click on the envelope at the top of the page after you sign in.
Tony
-
Managed to find a copy of the Clymer Manual that covers the YL1 and it says to do the above adjustment in either second, third or fourth gear.
-
Seem to remember what you have to do is as you screw in or out the eccentric screw at the bottom of your photo you should see the arm that rests on the selector drum at the top of your photo move forward or back. What you have to do is screw in or out the eccentric screw until the distance between the "Hooks" on the arm and the pins in the selector drum are an equal amount right and left. Once done tighten the locknut and bend over tab washer if fitted onto nut. Sounds like you've screwed the screw in to far and it's only pulling the selector drum one way. Hope this makes sense.
Tony
-
Hi mcferreira 100
Just found an old Yamaha Technical Service Bulletin that was sent out to Yamaha dealers here in the UK ref XT250/SR250 Excessive Camshaft Wear. It say's
" If you experience any problems with camshaft and/or rocker wear we request that in addition to replacing the worn parts you also replace the following:-
(i) Oil seal 93101-14092 (shown in picture as oil seal on inside of RH engine case just below oil filter housing)
(ii) Housing, rotor 3Y1-13336-01
Gear, pump driven 3Y6-13326-01
Rotor assembly 3Y1-13310-01
Please also check the cylinder head oil passage (shown in picture as oil feed to the camshaft) to ensure no swarf is blocking the oilway.
When assembling the engine the new camshaft and rockers must be smeared with molybdenum oil (STP or similar) or molybdenum disulphide base grease. If the camshaft has no oil supply, even for a few seconds, when the engine is first started damage will occur which will not become evident for several hundred miles".
Hope this is of some help
Tony
-
Have you checked the owners manual to see what the engine management light refers too? Have you checked the oil level since you changed it? Maybe the light refers to low oil level and the engine is seizing due to lack of oil if the problem has only just started since you changed the oil.
Tony
-
If you disconnect the blue wire from the neutral switch near the front sprocket, turn the ignition on and touch the blue wire to the alloy engine case does the neutral light come on ? If it does it sounds like there is a problem with the neutral switch. If the light doesn't come on you have a problem with the wiring or bulb/bulb holder.
-
As mentioned above I think I would get one of the small travel type padlocks that goes through the hole in the tab of the zip. Why should you put up with someone going through your personal belongings.
Failing that put an old stye mousetrap in your bag. That should catch the prat Red Handed !!!!
-
1
-
-
Hi Pat
From what you say it sounds like you have the electric start model. From memory this did use a dynamo system similar to the RD200 model. This used four brushes for the electric start and charging side and these had to be checked regularly to make sure they had't worn down to a line scribed on the brush. The RD200 had a red charge light in the tacho or speedo that went out when you increased the revs that showed it was charging. Not sure if yours has got this? .
I have sent you a personal message.
Tony
-
If you mean the clutch pushrod which is seen in your second photo just in front of the front sprocket this is shown under the clutch section in the parts list as number 8 Rod push (2). This relys on the springs number 22 pushing against the pressure plate number 21 to return the pushrod to the normal position when you let the clutch lever out.
-
Pretty sure it shouldn't effect the starting as if I remember the XT250 I had was only a 6 volt battery but you really need a good battery in circuit or you may have problems with bulb blowing.
-
Usually on Yamaha's the bit that screws into the handlebar clamp on the RH side i.e throttle side will be a LH thread and on the the LH side will be a RH thread. I think the reason why they did this was as you are moving forward and the mirror should hit something then the mirror should unscrew rather then tighten up and break the clamp.
Tony
-
Update
I've got a copy of the DT125RE 2005 Yamaha manual and it say's "The adjusting marks a and b has to match when the throttle cable free play ends"
The mark "a" is the scribed line on the end of the oil hose union and the mark "b" is the "O" line on the pulley. Looking at your photo the two marks are nearly lined up maybe a bit over on the pulley so when you remove the freeplay from the throttle the two marks should line up.
Just another thought if it's getting through a lot of two stroke oil it maybe leaking through the oil pump seal in the RH case into the gearbox oil. Can you check to see if the gearbox oil has risen ?
Tony
-
bugger!...I'm not familiar with how to set up that pump
Hi Airhead & dtluke
Just had a look at a copy of the Haynes which has a section on the 1997- on DT125R's and it say's to set the pump to open the throttle fully and hold in this position. At this position the line scribed on the end of the oil hose union (which you can just see on dtliuke's photo) should align with the reference mark on the pulley. If not adjust the pump cable until the marks line up on full throttle.The picture in the Haynes isn't very clear but it looks like with the marks aligned this puts the cable nipple in the pulley at the 6 o'clock position and the 4FL stamped on the pulley at the 3 o'clock positon. Hope this makes sense.
Tony
Questions about my 1985 RD350F YPVS
in Video Section
Posted
Hi Nick
Looking at your video it looks like it is pretty much original apart from the pipes. The original pipes were all black "Cigar shaped"
The indicators look original for the 1985 F1 and the mirrors look right although the original ones may have stuck out further. If you have a look at this link it shows the F1 on a brochure and the whole site has lots of info you may find helpful.
http://www.rd350lc.net/page57V85.htm
Hope you enjoy it. I have a 1983 RD350LC2 the first of the powervalves which is still fun to ride.
Tony