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YPVS TONE

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Posts posted by YPVS TONE

  1. I would say that the camchain tensioner on yours is fully automatic. It works on a spring and ratchet system so as the chain wears the one way ratchet will take up any slack in the chain.The bolt in the end retains the spring inside the tensiner .Tony.

  2. To adjust the camchain you remove the four screws that hold on the timing plate cover on the LH side of the engine and rotate the crankshaft anticlockwise using the square nut until the " C " mark lines up with the stationary pointer.You then loosen the locknut on the camchain tensioner on the back of the cylinder and then loosen the bolt.This should then take up any slack in the camchain. Retighten the bolt then the locknut but don't overtighten. Job done. The part number for the shimming tool is 90890-01245 which should still be available from any Yamaha dealer. From memory you have to be careful when you have the tool installed to make sure you turn the camshafts the right way or you will crack the cylinder head if the camshafts hit the tool. Hope this helps. Tony.

  3. The only round plug with similar wires i can make out from the wiring diagram are the ones for the servo for the EXUP valve in the exhaust.It is possible that someone has fitted an aftermarket exhaust and done away with the Exup valve. If you connect the plug and turn on the ignition you may hear the servo rotate if it is still there. Tony.

  4. The float height for the DT100 is 21mm measured by removing the float bowl , turn the carb upside down and measure from the gasket face of the carb (gasket removed) to the bottom of the float with the tang of the float JUST touching the needle valve but NOT compressing the spring in the valve. While you have the float bowl off check the pilot jet by removing with a small flat bladed screwdriver and you should be able to just see through it. If not blow through with compressed air but Don't be tempted to poke a piece of wire through it or you will enlarge the hole .Tony.

  5. The valve clearance for a 1978 xs400 is Inlet = 0.08 - 0.12mm ( 3 - 5 thou ) Exhaust = 0.16 - 0.20mm ( 6 - 8 thou ).To get the cylinders on the correct stroke you need to take of the alternator rotor cover which is held on with four allen bolts on the LH side at the front of the gear lever.If you turn the crank with the centre bolt you will see the marks RT and LT and a fixed pointer at 12 oclock .The LT is for the LH side cylinder ( as you are sitting on the bike ) and the RT is for the RH side. Turn the crank anticlockwise till the LT lines up with the pointer at 12 oclock then make sure you have movement on both rockers, if not turn the crank 360 dgrees until the LT lines up again and you have movement on both rockers on the LH cylinder. This is where you set the valve clearances. Repeat for the RH side useing thr RT marks . Hope this helps .Tony.

  6. The first thing i would check is take the carb off,remove the float bowl and remove the pilot jet with a small flat screwdriver and make sure it is not blocked. You should be just able to just see through it as it is only a small jet, if it is blocked try blowing through it using compressed air but DON'T be tempted to poke a piece of wire through it as you will open up the hole.Tony.

  7. On the RXS100 i had i can't remember any vibration at any speed. A couple of things to check is make sure the engine bolts are tight and make sure the chain is lubed and has some freeplay in it when you are sat on the bike. You can check the left hand side main bearing by removing the gear lever and left hand side cover and see if you can feel any up and down play in the ignition rotor. Tony.

  8. I think what you a refering to as the water jacket at the bottom of the barrel is actually the cylinder transfer ports. As the crankcase is seperate to the gearbox on a 2 stroke the water is probably coming from a worn waterpump seal.The new base gasket will have cutouts on each side to match the crankcase cutouts / transfer ports in the cylinder.Tony.

  9. My neighbour had the same problem a few months back on his gsx600 and found that using a blowlamp to heat the bolt and tapping an old socket onto the round part of the allen bolt then useng a rachet and just keep turning the socket to and fro it eventually came undone. Remember to put new bolts in and put some copaslip on the threads to prevent it happening again. Hope this helps .Tony.

  10. According to the Yamaha service data book i have the pickup coil resistance for the YZF750SP 1993 - 1996 should be 150 ohms plus or minus 10% measured across the black and green/yellow wires of the pick up coil so you will need a good digital multimeter to check. Hope this helps .Tony.

  11. When you turn on the ignition the valve will rotate anticlockwise to the fully open position i.e with the pulley U lined up with the hole .Now when you start the bike the valve should move clockwise to the low position. How high are you revving it as the valve won't start to open (moving anticlockwise) until about 5500 - 6000rpm and upwards. Tony.

  12. Just had a look in the genuine Yamaha service data book i have and for the XJ600S/N it says for the forks use a 10w fork oil and for fork oil capacitys it says

    0.379L up to 1995

    0.375L 1996 to 1998

    0.463L 1999 onwards

    So it could be that you have 88ml too much oil in your forks if yours is a 98 model.Hope this helps. Tony.

  13. On my 350 powervalve i have some TKR pistons and the thin ring goes in the top groove .Have you tried fitting the thicker ring in the top groove you will probably find it won't fit. Tony.

  14. Found these settings in a Yamaha technical informaton book for the 1995 YZF750R

    Front Spring preload = 4 lines showing

    Front Rebound = 6 clicks out

    Front Compression = 7 clicks out

    Rear Spring Preload = Measurement Length 11.5mm ( not sure where this is measured from ? )

    Rear Rebound = 10 clicks out

    Rear Compression = 10 clicks out

    Hope this is of some help. Tony

  15. Have you checked the air filter ? If i remember rightly this is a foam filter and can be washed out and lightly reoiled. Another thing i would check is to make sure the exhaust port isn't carboned up. You can check this by undoing the ring nut where the pipe goes onto the cylinder and shining a torch up there with the piston at bottom dead centre. You said your friend said there was a lot of white smoke. Check your gearbox oil level as it could be burning gearbox oil through the RH side crank seal. Tony.

  16. Funnily enough my brother noticed that his throttle didn't snap back yesterday on his R1 and found that the actual rubber grip was rubbing on the bar end so he twisted and pushed the grip round till it didn't rub. If its not that its probably the cable wants lubing or replacing. Try squirting a bit of wd40 down the switch with the key half in this might help if not it may be the switch is worn.Tony.

  17. From memory the points are under the cover item # 21 which is just held on by the two screws # 23 and #24. I can't recall the screws having any cover over them once the screws are out the cover should just pull off.Tony.

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