YPVS TONE
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Posts posted by YPVS TONE
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As mentioned the gearbox oil and engine oil are the same source. You say you found the sight window well that is how you check the engine/gearbox oil with the bike upright i.e on the centre stand.On Yamahas you either have a dipstick in the filler cap or a sight glass but not both. Tony.
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Like root says it sounds like they have been overfilled. Ask him how much fork oil he put in each leg. according to the data I have on the FZR600R 4JH they should have 503ml per leg for the 1994 model and 431ml for the 1995 model so you could drain each fork and see how much is in them. Tony.
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Does your bike have a "PRI" or Prime position on the fuel tap ? On my 350 YPVS I find if its not run for a week or more the carbs need filling up by turning the tap to the prime position for a few seconds then back to the ON position. After this it will start 2nd or 3rd kick. Also worth remembering when starting from cold use choke and NO throttle. I agree with Speedshop on the oil pump. Why use premix as the autolube system is usually very reliable provided it is correctly set up and not allowed to run out of 2 stroke oil .Tony.
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What year and model is the bike as there is different fork oil quantitys for the different models of Ypvs. Tony.
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The one with the 443 prefix refers to a 1974/1975 DT175A or DT175B. Not sure about the oT1, is it defineately an o and not a D. Hope this helps. Tony.
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Run the engine for a few minutes than turn off and let stand a couple of minutes with the bike on the centre stand or held upright.Look at the lower edge of the RH clutch cover and you should see a sight glass with an upper and lower mark by it.Make sure the oil is between the marks. If it needs topping up use a bike specific 10/40w oil and check on the back of the bottle it has JASO-MA spec as this is suitable for bike wet clutches. DON'T use car oil as some of the additives in car oils can cause the clutch to slip.Tony.
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On Yamahas a plain black wire is for earth so it could be for the indicators or headlight.Is there a single black wire coming from headlight bulbholder? .Tony.
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Make sure you have 3-5mm freeplay between the clutch lever and clutch lever holder and as Kirriepete says make sure the oil is suitable for bikes Not for cars.Check the oil container it should have JASO-MA spec which is suitable for bike wet clutches.Tony.
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I think you will find the puller is a standard size for Yamahas for all the two strokes.The main thread of the puller is a left hand thread that screws into the flywheel so you screw it in anti-clock wise as you look at the flywheel.If you can't find one give Taymar Racing a call on 01732 824171 or 07968 350878 if you are in the UK .Tony.
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Have you got the carb slide in right ? The cutaway at the bottom of the slide should face back towards the airbox.Also make sure the throttle cable outer hasn't come out of the junction box. Tony
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Hi Nick
Just had a look on the Yamaha USA site under parts and selected DT175H which looks like the DT175MX and look under oil pump and it shows the two connectors as seperate parts so i would have thought that they are removable.It might be worth having a chat with your local Yamaha dealer to see if they are still availabe in case you damage them trying to get them out. Tony.
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They do a 500ml tin which is enough for a 5 gallon tank so is enough for an RZ tank.Not sure if they ship abroad but if you type in "PR1005L" in google you might find someone who does it in the US. Tony.
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I had the same problem on my 1983 powervalve and found a product in the UK available from Tankcare products known as PR1005L which you slosh inside the tank after it has been fully degreased and then let the excess run out.It leaves a flexible coating on the inside of the tank which is fuel resistant and is what they use to line aircraft fuel tanks.Don't use the epoxy type coatings i.e petseal as these will eventually start to break up.Tony.
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The generator is under the LH engine side cover but you will need a proper flywheel puller to get the rotor off.You can check the coil resistances by just disconnecting the multi plug from the generator without removing the flywheel.Tony.
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What you need to do first is with the engine Stopped look on the RH sides of the carbs and you will see a window on each carb. Open the throttle fully and make sure both dimples in the slides apear in the centre of the window if not adjust the cable on the top of the carb to raise or lower the slide so both slides are at the same height with the dimples in the centre of the window.Now start the bike and warm it up. Stop the engine and remove the RH plug cap and put a spare plug in the plug cap and rest the plug on the cylinder head.Start the engine and adjust the throttle stop screw on the LH carb (the bigger screw on the side of the carb with spring behind it) until the tacho reads 1000RPM .Stop the engine and remove the spare plug from RH plug cap and put cap back on the RH plug.Remove LH plug cap and put spare plug in cap and rest on the head.Start engine set tickover on RH carb to 1000rpm. Stop engine and remove spare plug and replace cap on LH plug.Before you restart engine unscrew each throttle stop screw out the SAME amount say about one full turn each. If the tickover is to high or too low screw each throttle stop screw in or out the Same amount as each other to keep the carbs balanced. Tony.
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Have you got the slides in the right carbs as they are handed.The cutouts at the bottom of the slides should face back towards the airbox. Tony.
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Are you in the UK ? If so give Motoward a call on 01403 823222 with the year and full engine number and they may be able to look the part up and see if it's still available. Tony.
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Take off the gearlever and the cover behind it and make sure the single wire going to the neutral swith hasn't been pinched by the cover and shorting to earth. Tony.
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Sounds like the EXUP valve in the exhaust needs stripping out and greasing with high temperature grease. Tony.
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Just had a look at a parts catalogue for a 1993 FZR1000 and it shows the cable bracket and cover as seperate parts so it might be worth speaking to your local Yamaha dealer and get them to see if its the same on a FZR400RR and see if the parts are still available .Tony.
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On the YB100 the points should be just starting to open at 1.8mm BTDC (befrore top dead centre) so you really need a dial gauge and adaptor screwed into the spark plug hole to do this accurately .Tony.
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Hi there,
Cheers Jebb for the help. I have managed to get the contact points opening. It seems the contact points wouldn't 'reach' down far enough to be pushed. So after a little force, and a tightening of the screw, it seems to work. Next question is, should top dead centre be when the contacts are just opening, at some point while they are open, or when they are at there most open. I would imagine as long as the points are open, and there is a spark, it doesn't matter, as the piston is close enough to TDC, but I was curious as to what it is meant to be.
Again, the help is very much appreciated.
atocp
'98 FZS 600 Misfire
in Yamaha Workshop
Posted
First thing I would do is try draining the carb floatbowls incase you have water or dirt in the bowls and when you crack open the throttle it's drawing water/dirt into the jets. Tony.