YPVS TONE
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Posts posted by YPVS TONE
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Just found a couple of links that show the oil line going onto the spigot on the carb
http://media.photobu..._2944Medium.jpg
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It is usually stamped on a small square section cast on the carb. In your original picture there is a small square section on the carb about halfway up on the side. Have a look there but they are usually quite small digits and faintly stamped. Does your frame number start 1M1? If so the carb number might be something like 1M1-00.
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If you have the carb off have a look at the inlet side of the carb just in front of the slide at the bottom .the 2 stroke oil usually gets injected here so maybe you can spray some carb or contact cleaner with the long extension nozzle fitted to the can down the hole and see where it comes out. What I would say is the spigot is missing from the carb where I originally said and is not shown on the parts list. The oil line fitted to the carb in og's photo looks too high to be the oil stub and I would say this is a carb vent. Was the bike running on premix when you got it ?
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Just found this on youtube. Looks like there should be an oil line spigot that fits into the hole just above the front float bowl screw on roffster's photo but doesn't show the spigot seperately on the parts breakdown of the carb.
Not sure if one from an RD250 is the same http://www.pgmyamaha.com/shop/360-14333-00.html
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I think you will find this is correct as I seem to remember the DT125MX I once had only had one if you mean item 6 here ? http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt175g-dual-purpose-1980_model8733/partslist/A-10.html
Tony
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I would do what og says and give it a good run. Did you put a lot of oil on the bearings and piston and bore when you reassembled it .If so it is proably just this being burn't off after it has built up in the crankcase especially at high rpm. Just keep an eye on the gearbox oil as if it is burning it to that extent the level will drop. Have you checked the oil pump cable setting to make sure it is set right and make sure the oil pump cable hasn't pulled out of the junction box or are you using premix in the petrol tank ?.
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Hi Jay
Does the RH oil seal lips contact on a collar or is it part of the primary gear. If you strip it again check where the seal lips contact to make sure there isn't a groove in the collar / primary gear. Tony
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Just had a look on the Yamaha usa site at the parts list and it does look like the headlight is a sealed unit unless someone know otherwise.
Tony
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I have a Yamaha service data book that says XV125 1997 - 2000
Fork oil type - 10W
Fork oil capacity - 245ml per leg
Fork oil level - ( compressed without spring ) - 120mm
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I seem to remember they were 12V as they only had electric start.
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Can you confirm what year you have 1994 or 1995 as the data I have says the jets are different. If you can find out the ID mark on the carbs this would help. Should be stamped on the side of the carbs. Should be either 4HD00 or 4HD10 assuming its a UK bike.
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I know the 125mx I had was defineately electronic ignition and the ignition timing was set at 1.45mm BTDC were the 175s were 1.8mm BTDC.
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I know the 1979 DT125MX I had had a smaller carb then my mates who had a 1980 DT175MX both had the silver box section swinging arms with both airboxes on the LH side.
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The DT125MX used a smaller carb a VM22SS compared to the 175 that used a VM24SS so it might be better to look for a s/h 175 carb. Certain that the DT125LC MK1 still only had drum front brake and monoshock rear suspension and it was only the later MK2 and onwards that had Front disc and rising rate rear suspension.
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Have you got the cutouts on the reeds and stopper plate lined up ? If they are the original Yamaha reeds you should see a cutout on one of the corners by the screw holes which should match the cut out on the stopper plate when screwed togther. If you get this wrong you will get a gap as if you view the reeds from the side you will see they are slightly concave. It did effect the idle on my LC2 on the right hand side when I found that one of the reeds on that side was fitted wrong leading to a gap and the reeds not fully closing. Remember to also put a drop of Loctite on the screw threads that hold the reeds on. Tony
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I agree with oldgit that it's a DT125R as I had a F reg one when they first came out in the same colours white/red. And it was definately liquid cooled NOT aircooled. 110% .And certain the MK3 didn't have a rear disc but the DT125R did like in LewLar's photo.
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Sounds like the stat was stuck closed as suggested and it's freed itself. Has the rad got a "Rad cap" on it if not has the expansion cap got a pressure rating on it ? Is so then the system will be pressurised by the cap on the expansion bottle. Just keep an eye on the level in the bottle as it shouldn't really alter as it is a "sealed system". Check it with the engine cold and make sure the level is between upper and lower levels.
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If it's been stood that long possibly a stuck thermostat. Does the radiator feel hot when it has been run ?
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As oldgitonabike says your'e looking for resistance Not voltage. Just looked on a site with some service data on and it says 1975-76 DT400B and DT400C pulse coil resistance between W/G and W/R wires should be 100 ohms + or - 10%. Hope this helps. Tony
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Do you know if the tank has been lined with petseal or similar ?
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Below is a letter I sent to Mary Honeyball back in July of the Eu who is also against these proposals but still haven't received a reply.
Dear Ms Honeyball
After reading in the Motorcycle Media and online about the proposals by the EU Commision regarding Anti Tampering Measures for Motorcycles I thought I would write to you and express my concerns. As a former professional motorcycle mechanic and motorcycle rider I back up your concerns regarding the total lack of evidence that tampering / home maintenance increases emmision levels/accidents Also perhaps you could argue that this will also affect shops and businesses who sell aftermarket products and service items and people cannot always afford dealer prices for servicing and is why they do their own maintenace. Lastly, if this does happen will they be doing the same for car drivers who modify their vehicles by changing engine/exhaust components to increase performance, thus increasing fuel emmisions, fuel consumption and noise !!!
It seems to me that this is just another proposal to remove motorcycles from our highways without the same proposals for cars. Many thanks.
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Seem to remember the early SR125 had two inspection plugs you undone with a large flat screwdriver on the LH crankcase cover so you didn,t have to remove the whole cover. Not sure if the later ones were the same. You should then be able to turn the engine over with a socket while looking for the TDC mark. As 2Wheels has said the valve clearances must be done at TDC on the compression stroke with both valves closed.
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I always find it best to gently push down the kickstart with your foot until the gears engage then kick from there as your less likely to break anything.
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Do you mean the actual actual gear lever is loose on the gearchange shaft ? If so then it should be tight on the shaft. You could try tightening it slightly to see if this reduces the play but DON'T go mad or you will strip or break the bolt. The manual for the 2005 YBR125 says tighten bolt to 10Nm or 7.2 ft-ilb so if you know someone with a torque wrench that goes that low get them to check it. Does a 10mm spanner fit the head of the bolt ? if so it is only a 6mm thread so don't go any higher then this. Tony
1979 DT250MX oil pump connection to carb?
in Dual Sport, Offroad Bikes
Posted
Try blowing or spraying some carb or contact cleaner down the hole 'B' in your photo and you should see it come out a small hole on the inside of the carb at the bottom on the inlet side as this is where the two stroke oil gets injected in. As I mentioned earlier it looks like you have the oil line connector / spigot missing which I think should look like the one in the link I sent you from pgm that should push into hole B which the oil line connects to.