chrisw
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Posts posted by chrisw
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Single Seat
in Naked
Besided Ebay, is there anywhere anyone recommends for getting a single seat cowl for a 04 R6?Cheers
Rich
Local dealer !!!
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I have recently purchased a FZR600R and am wanting to improve its bottom end by getting a chain and sprocket kit that runs 45/14 rather than the stndard 45/15. Does anyone know who makes them and where I can get one from? Thanks
You should just be able to get your local bike shop to order that size front sprocket in.
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does anyone kno how to take the seat off an 05 yzf 600r??
On the left hand side of the seat cowling there's a seat lock, put your key in it and turn clockwise. Lift the seat from the rear to remove it.
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It's a ticking noise you'll hear it when sat normal on the bike and it's on tickover. If it's ticking or rattling either loudly or like hell when revved it probably isn't the same noise.
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Should be checked at 28,000 according to haynes manual but seems the services on later r6 were 6,000 that means it should be done at either 24,000 or 3,000 ... I'd go for 24,000.
What your checking for is the gap between valves and cam lobes.
You're not forced to know they need doing but if the valves sound rattly then valve clearances could be the problem.
On an R6 though there is a rattley noise from the top right of the engine that has nothing to do with Valve clearances and some people do mistake the noise.
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Bizarrley enough, I just changed the chain and sprockets on my 04 R6 at the weekend (D.I.D x ring), did the usual 530 conversion (532 being standard), it's the 4th x-ring chain I've fitted to this bike and it also whines like the gearbox is knackered, even went to the shop tonight where I got all the stuff from to make sure they'd supplied me with all 530 and not stuck a 532 sprocket in there by mistake. (none of the other chains on this bike or previous have whine'd like this) Took it wheel out again tonight to make sure everything is spot on and took front sprocket cover off to make sure all was good behind there as well and it is. I'll just have to see if it quitens down eventually. But my god is it doing my head in!
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I used to own a cat and never found a cure, your K&N won't help as it's got a higher air flow (not that it won't do it anyway with a standard filter in place)
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Your suffering a bit of Carb icing. Basically what tends to happen (and I speak from being an all year rider who previously owned a Thundercat) you can start you bike up fine first thing in the morning. But whilst your riding it cold air is forced into the bike intake and the moisure in the air freezes in the carb causing the needle to stick. This then causes the mis fire that you speak of. If you stop for a while (even with engine running) there is no longer that rush of cold air so the heat from the engine thaws out the carbs and you can carry on, for a short distance until the freeze cycle starts again.
it's common to alot of bikes, some worse than others. Fuel injection doesn't suffer the same problem luckily.
You could try putting some cardboard over part of the radiator so that it increases the temp and see if that helps at all.
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forgetting the revving itself silly sometimes (could be a totally different issue) it might be then coil packs that are breaking down, although I'd expect it to happen under load throughout the rev range, but more noticably at a certain rev's.
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"Down to canvas" .... seriously don't do that, you don't need a blow out on bike !
Dunlops are OK, Bridgstone BT014's aren't a bad tyre to change to.
Regarding buyig tyres from someone like busters, sometimes buying from them and then taking them to a tyre dealer to change/balance can be slightly more expensive than just buying from a dealer in the first place.
Phone around your local bike shops and get some prices.
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Think it might be time to try tapping it out ... but not wacking it ... or take it to your local reliable dealer to see what they reckon.
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I don't think on the Cat the PADS were HH rated, but to be honest I'd stack with OE pads, you'll get a big enough difference out of the brake overhaul your doing anyway.
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Had a 2004 since new and in the 43,000 miles it's covered I've never felt it needed a steering damper
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2 year parts and labour. covers everything apart from:
1) wear and tear
2) things that may have been damaged due to modifications to the bike.
3) Abuse
4) if the bike is used for racing (actually includes track days as well I think)
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Hi everything was fine with my old Diversion 600 until I decided to change the oil, the oil filter and the air filter myself.
Now, when I try to start the engine, it doesn't ignite, as if the combustion could never spark on.
Thanks for your help,
Stephane.
I;'m sure you've checked but I know so many people mess up hear .... but is your kill switch knocked off !
If you don't usually use it and have accidently caught it, then it's one of those things you just forget to check.
Sorry to state the obvious but it's always good to start with the easy things
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so wat bikes you gonna be using?
We used,
myself on R6 - , other riders were on GSXR600, FZ600R, Hornet 600, ZX9, ZX6, Varedero, RG1150GS, RF900..
Here's our website: http://www.thrape.fsnet.co.uk/jogle1000forcruk/
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Sounds like your suffering Carb Icing! You'd think that once the engine is warmed up then the problem would not happen, but in reality what seems to happen is that after several miles/km the problem starts happening as the metal parts have been cooled with cold air, until moisture start freezing causing hesitation spots. I use to suffer it on my Thundercat and it drove me bonkers. You can get carb warmers but if these fit the divie 900 I don't know, nor do I know just how effective they are.
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Valve clearance intervals sound about right to me, I had mine from new until 2y 10, old and 36k on the clock, never let me down once apart from punctures and I can't blame the bike for that!
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for reading fault codes the Rev needles jumps bettween actual reva and either the folowing
8,000 rpm - Either the fuel light bulb has blown or .... most likely the sender unit has become faulty (usually just requires a wire soldering on but requires you to take the sender out of the tank to repair.
3,000 rpm is the Throttle Position Sensor
Some people also say 7,000 is a code but this refers to the EX-up valve which isn't fitted to the Cat.
Your other topic has got a reply from me about the throttle needing a bit of a twist when starting . but in general Yes you do tend to have to mine used to and a mates used to need it.
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Hi and Welcome
My old cat use to chug a little on tick over, and was alwas Dealer serviced
I think I use to have to do this quiet often as well.
(for the above it might be worth taking it to a dealer and geting them to sync the carbs. And get the plugs checked/cleaned as well)
To get the suspension set up correctly depends on what the roads are like where you live and your weight. Get the suspension set back to factory settings and then ride it to see where it needs adjusting.
Valve clearance's do need doing at the required service intervals.
To get the front wheel off the ground you need to buy either front and rear paddock stands. (You need to lift the back end up first and then the front, never try to lift on ly the front end, you'll be sat crying otherwise and counting the cost), or alternatively you can buy a Stand that clamps into the Swingarm pivot and then jack under the down pipes to lift it off the front whell onto the back. (personally I prefer the front and rear paddock stands)
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In August of this year, myself and a group of work mates arranged and obviously participated in a sponsored motorcycle ride from John o'Groats to Lands End, using no motorways ... (some of you may remember me posting details of it up before hand)
Well MCN have finally decided it was worthy of a mention and it's in this weeks issue (6th Feb 08). We get a 2 page write up (page 46/47).
Not the best bit of editting on the full report they were provided with but at least we made it in!
We raised £12,595 between the 9 of us for Cancer Research UK !
Electrical Problem (I think!)
in Naked
Posted
Could be the leads or could be the Pick up coil, TPS ...
Best advice is to drop it in to a dealer so they can identify the fault, even if you take it home to repair.
there some leads on ebay going for sale with coils at moment!
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-THUNDERCAT-YZ...Q2em118Q2el1247
quite a few on there (search Thundercat coil or Thundercat leads)
or plug caps only
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Yamaha-YZF-600-Thund...Q2em118Q2el1247