Airhead

sounds awfully like a blocked pilot jet problem...will start with choke...wont start without it!!

Here you go then....Good luck! Dont be nervous, ive heard its not all that bad, they say not to go mad with the hazard test because you get marked down for too many hits!!! Its only what i heard though...back in my day a chap just walked in front of you holding a flag while you were on yer test

Hello and welcome weasle, thats what the bar is for mate...to say hello and get a virtual round in, good to hear of your 'conversion' dont forget to sign the tax petition though, they are reducing car tax...and doubling bike tax to subsidise it!!

might be a fuel supply problem, although 20 miles seems a bit far for this, could also be petrol tank not venting properly due to blocked or kinked vent hose, check this out and also check the fuel filter screen is clean, has the fuel tap got a bowl on it? if so switch the fuel off and unscrew the bowl, be careful not to damage it though as its made of soft metal and wont take abuse, carefully remove the filter screen and clean out the tap and screen, while its in bits hold a container under it and open the tap briefly to check for a good flow of fuel.

Hi Alan, I agree with the previous comments about running rich, but would suggest you check the needles and emulsion tubes for wear, unfortunately its a carb strip down job though!

I will scan mine, hang on, its much older though, i notice youve got the orange coil wire to ground...Why? Edit... diagram sent. You will see it is not quite the same as yours, can you not get a manual for this, it is a much later version and was not sold here. I have seen your bike has been sold in other countries other than iceland, I think it was sols in Australia amongst others, we could do with tracking down a manual because yours is different to the one that was sold here in late 70's early 80's, what you called "ignition box" is our CDI and is rather different, we need to get a diagram specific to yours somehow! 2nd Edit...Australian version sent

LOL, Some class one liners there

I have a wiring diagram from an erly uk version (around 1979) The wire to the coil is Orange

I suspect that it wont pass an MOT though so may mean continually putting the old stuff back on, not worth it in my opinion!

sorry, never heard of self tapping bolts, as for taking the head off i cant help with that either, never had one of those but it might be an engine out of the frame job if you dont have room to lift it clear, the main thing is to slacken the cam chain adjuster and lift the head off without dropping the chain...DONT drop it into the crankcase, tie it up somewhere, after you do the repair you need to put it on in the right place. If you do helicoil it you will need one of These You need a dead steady hand when drilling the pilot hole and make sure you keep to the correct angle and depth, if youre not sure or confident ask your local engineering firms, they might do it for you but you may still have to buy the kit. Dont use bolts in the exhaust, use studs with nuts, that way the thread in the head will not be damaged

Well you did ask and my suggestion is helicoil it, you will also possibly need to take the head off if access to drill and tap is restricted. If you go down the route of tapping bigger and make a cobblers of it then its another head after that, i think the next size bigger is 8mm at a guess, have you got room for it alongside the exhaust, bearing in mind that the nut will be bigger 13mm AF instead of 10mm AF

Stevie, the pics are poor quality and dont really help, the question is...is the hole now enlarged and if so it will not tap because its now bigger than the tap...if this is the case it will need a helicoil repair!

Dunno, out of my depth with these things, (exup valves and flow sensors) hopefully someone will jump in and help out here!

very nice too, almost as good as mine Bet its a handfull!

Theres no short cuts here, you either get stuck in or you give the job to someone else, if you PM me your email I will send you something about cleaning carbs, in particlar CB400F carbs. I'm still none the wiser about your answer about a good supply of fuel from the tap to the carbs. This is important before you start looking for carbs at fault.

Not especially an expert on bulbs myself, but i thought the way the beam pattern goes is governed by the lens not the bulb, a bulb is only a light source and emits light all over.!

I do this Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum

have you got a good flow of fuel if you pull off the feed pipe from your carbs?

Dont understand your statement "wont take any fuel into the chambers" , can you clarify? so would that be a 400 - 4,

Hi Brad If im not mistaken its the needles that are titanium, you replace these and the jets, anyway...have a look here Here

Well if youve got sparks, and got fuel then all you need is compression, you will have to do a compression test. It might be worth squirting a drop of oil into the spark plug holes, just to give it that initial seal to start though. Could the rings / bores be worn, done a lot of miles?

Incredible job Mervin, Hats off to you mate!

Are the plugs getting wet with fuel on these starting attempts, have you checked for spark, is the choke mechanism working?

On my DT the headlamp body fits on a central peg at the top and is held tight by a central screw at the bottom, quite a good idea really as you just loosen it and swivel the lens assembly toward the kerbside the re tighten it, thats what i love about mine, full of clever little designs...shame the light's crap though! could yours be the same?