Airhead

You need to do the test either with the carbs removed or with the throttles fully open, If the bike has diaphragm carbs you are unlikely to develop enough vacuum to open the throttles by hand cranking.

If the two stroke oil tank is completely empty, you will need to bleed the air from the pump after filling it, its also wise to purge the line too to get the oil to the carb, also serves as a means of checking the pump is working correctly

Ouch!!!, but I doubt the typical Yank B that Rich Rich B...

In the mag Ignition pulser coil Wht/Red - Blk = 12.4 Ohms +-10% Charge coil Brn - Blk = 420 Ohms +-10% . Red - Blk 13.6 Ohms +- 10% Orange from CDI to coil LT You say the bike has been used off road, what means of stopping the engine has been used, maybe theres a switch in the off position, this is done by switching the B/W CDI wiring to chassis.

The main jet on a uk bike is 130, try the sunlight test, use a nylon bristle pulled from a brush to clean out as well as carb cleaner spray. Seems like youre on the right track now but now the problem is the main jet circuit. Come to think of it if the pilot jet was blocked its likely that the main jet may be blocked and its possible that the needle jet may also need cleaning, if you unscrew the needle jet you will see a series of tiny holes along its length in the side of the tube, may as well have a look at these too. ...Paul

Hi Jim, when did they start fitting a side stand switch to these bikes then?

so Jim...you didnt like my little joke then

Just HOW old is the 'nail'

Hmmm, as you may know, I know not a lot about XS's, but I would check out the generator rotor ? woodruff key arrangement first.

Youre gonna need one of These now Jason! Edit: Just noticed they are listed as DT175 so you will have to contact them to measure it up, failing that compare part numbers between yours and a twin shock model.

You could always turn the tables on them and have some yourself...

Thats right niiick...

Heat is most definately a last resort yes, the bushes are plastic and if they melt will fuse to the swing arm when everything cools down, then you will have to ream out the bore or something to remove the melted bush.

It might be niiick

Aheavy hammer, a good strong drift and someone to hold the thing. The key is to support it on the heavy vise, I would be very surprised if you dont win the battle.

Cant you drift the seized pivot out? its only in plastic bushes anyhow so either pivot or bush should move. support the arm bosses on a strong vise with the jaws just open enough to clear the piovot.

Cue Goff...

Aahahahaha... God one. Edit. I mean good one

Welcome to the forum Rocky, Keyster carb kit still available from Siriusconinc for your bike I think part # KY-0217 see Here $39, They are also in Canada. ...Paul

Hold the carb in an upside down position. While holding the floats so the tang is just touching the float needle, measure the distance from the top of the float to the float bowl gasket surface. Bend the tang on the float arm if adjustment is necessary. BOTH FLOATS MUST BE AT THE SAME HEIGHT.

I would give it a while and if you cant get used to it or feel its a safety issue then have a word with an engineering fabrication company about bending /cutting/welding it into a more acceptable position.

Thats just my point...and is mum used to it now?

Youve been riding scooters for tooo long You will get used to it but it may feel very odd at first because your feet are lower...stick with it and take it easy.

Hi Glenn and welcome to the forum. It does sound like a fuelling issue from what you describe, first with this bike standing for so long, pull off the fuel line from the carb and verify a good flow, the symptoms you describe may be blockages in the carb or even a slow feed of fuel to the carb. There is a filter screen in the bowl of the fuel tap. Where are you based? ...Paul Edit Oops you beat me to the tap Cynic...