Airhead

Check the resistance values of your magneto source coil = 420 ohms +- 10%............Brown to chassis Check the resistance of the magneto pulse coil = 12.4 ohms +- 10%...........White / Red to chassis Check the resistance values of the ignition coil, Primary = 1.0 ohm =- 15%, secondary = 5900 ohms +- 20%

look in FAQ's for how to add pics.

as a bodge put a jubilee clip around it with a lump of tinfoil covering the hole, but welding would be better later. dont worry about the smoke yet, the exhaust baffle may need a de-coke, its a bit early to be worrying about smoke, just get it running right and take it for a blast see what transpires...

Although i dont know for certain, thats the way it is with my bike and yours is likely to be the same...dont forget indicators though. Yep check out the switch with a multimeter, it may just need adjusting...pull the thing down more with your hand...if it works adjust it by the plastic nut, or could be a bad connection somewhere.

Good luck with it Foamy, will you have internet there then?

Bill & Ben

Welcome Mogg, great choice of bike...

Thats probably just due to wear though, I think it will be removable in the furthest anticlockwise = OFF and possibly the furthest clockwise = Parking lights (ignition off)...just a guess though. Also check you havnt knocked the kill switch if it has one.

sometimes the key in the furthest clockwise position is the parking light position, if this is the case you would have lights on and be able to remove the key....and ignition would be disabled here! ...Paul

is the key switch fitted? if it is try disconnecting it, if that works re connect the kill switch as a means of stopping the engine

Black/white to kill switch, orange to ignition coil, black to chassis. The other colours from the magneto are lighting and battery charging coils so depends on whether youre going to run with lights and a battery. ...Paul

Take it back, get it fixed under warranty.

Yep, sounds like a new battery would be needed, charge it up first though.

Aagghh! dammit, didnt you leave it in gear?...very painful lesson if the answer is no...

They will do but should stop around 2500 - 3000 rpm, after that they should remain a constant brightness. If they continue to glow brighter its time to measure the voltage...

Also it might be worth measuring the voltage to the lights when the engine is revved, just to test the voltage regulater out, if thats gone you should stop using the bike before battery and other stuff gets fried

Welcome Gail, that blackhat guy....he's scootash so dont know aboot pootles...

Glad you sorted it, thanks for the feedback...

I find Google helps... ...Paul

It always helps if you put in your profile the year of the bike as well as the model, cant look for a lens without specific year of bike, I did find one here but dont know if its for you. Light bulbs can be bought anywhere, any bike shop, some car spares shops, maybe Halfords...just look.

Just trim and re shape the offending bit off then...

before welding, remove the CDI if it has one...

Fact of the matter is..as Jim says, the front mudguard should never hit the exhaust...no matter how much the suspension is compressed. This would indicate something is damaged (bent)

Sh*t not again, are you ok? any witnesses in your favour, that blind spot stuff is just nonsense how can that be a defence? your confidence has obviously taken a knock, whats the damage to you and the bike?