Airhead

This is as the wiring diagram, If that does not work we need to check coil resistances next.

what have you done with the CDI Bk / We ? EDIT It looks to me that you connected it to a black Disconnect it from that black, connect the black to chassis with the other black Connect the Bk/We throgh a switch to chassis, this will then be your engine kill switch. When the switch is open you have spark, when closed...no spark.

Thanks mate is that how you see me

Its a DT125MX, also available in 175. Not exported to uk as we got the LC's while these aircooled ones were sent to other countries, they were common in Australia.

Compression test suggests at best...worn rings. you should try new ones. How many miles (kms) has it done? Will it start after a small quirt of oil is introduced?

Just be happy with it as it is Mike, I have one similar. or buy a DT125R...like my other

MV agusta gets my vote, where do these things get air time though...they are all new to me. Are they made for American audiences?...I expect so

welcome back Dave, were u been?

Not possible mike, your shock absorber is inside of the frame spine is it not? Completely different arrangement.

Welcome here thracian I bet you have some fantastic places to ride in and around those mountains, looking forward to some pics sometime. ...Paul

This looks like a quality resto in the making. Did you see the recent feature in CMM magazine, with regard to restoring this bike? ...Paul

If in doubt, flush it out. Like i said earlier. But meantime, remove the radiator cap when the bike is cold. You will see .... 1: If there is a correct full level. 2: If there is oil on top of the water.

http://www.nhs.uk/Conditions/Flatulence/Pages/Treatment.aspx My bike whines, but only when the wife is on the back.

How can we help without an picture, an engine number...a frame number?

Sounds like a stiff link, look ot for it on one of the straight runs between the sprockets.

It could be barwell on his way to the Devon lane

On the earlier one (2001) the oil is up front, it says oil on the cap as has been said. The coolant expansion tank is inder the rear fender, it says coolant on the cap I wouldnt worry too much if some numpty has put some oil in it. Oil floats on water and because ther is no actual circulation from this tank it will just sit there on top of any coolant that was there. Pull off the pipe from the bottom of this tank to drain it of oil / coolant, then rinse it out by shaking it with white spirit inside of it. Only then should you drain the rest by removing the drain plug and radiator cap, leave a hose running into the radiator for a while. Then re-fit the expansion bottle and re-fill the system with coolant.

Yep they will rust now, do as I said with the others and hopefully the 3 in 1 oil will help with the sanded ones also. Use it regularly especially in wet weather and winter.

The dull corrosion is just oxidization of the zinc on the spokes, it is good in one respect because it shows the zinc is still there. On NO account do any sanding down though because you will be down to bare metal immediately followed by brown rusty spokes. Mine were corroded as the previous owner had not looked after the bike and the spokes were pretty naff...but now they are just pretty One clean only ...use 'Belgom Chroom' as it is not very abrasive, it will get the dull stuff off and where they are really bad leave them alone. When they are clean, like I said only do this once...keep them clean..... For this I just wipe them down regularly with 3 in 1 oil on a clean cloth CAUTION...take great care not to touch brake disks. Thats what I did, I havent got a photo but if you wait a few days maybe I can get one

Did it not occur to you on that narrow Devon lane that something might actually come the other way? If you continue to think it was not your fault, then every time you go down a lane like that you will no doubt crash into the back of someone

so did you get cash in hand for the accident that wasnt your fault, and how come it wasnt your fault anyway? you drove into the back of someone. i mean think about it, if a car drives into the back of you on your bike you mean it's not their fault? I think it is myself, you might think they were not concentrating, too fast, too near...or am i missing something here?

Hi and welcome As far as I know thr brakelight works from the battery and so...you need a good battery! Also the horn works from said battery so this can be used to determine the battery is good. Unplug the two connectors to the brake switch and check the switch operates using a multi meter. Check the bulb filament using a multimeter. check that battery voltage appears in the bulb housing when brake pedal is pressed. Oh and dont forget there is a long thread and adjusting nut on the brake switch...it might just need adjusting after all. Try pulling the actuater down by hand to test. ...Paul

They were all too busy phonin an textin Sad times we live in indeed. Glad you and your bike are ok (ish)

You just bought it eh...Woz it cheap An interesting post title 'lost of compression' well i'm thinkink if the compression is lost then that could well be the problem, in fact almost certainly. However I suspect this is just a typo and it has lots of compression If this is the case and you have only just bought it is there fuel in it and are you leaving the choke in the on position because it will run rough if this is the case. ...Paul

I'm surprised at the restoration of these bikes as a 'business proposition' since the restoration of bikes is normally done by owners who put their own 'free' time into the project. Even then the final value of the bike is unlikely to match what has been spent on parts ans services etc but people do it just because they love their old bikes and take a great deal of pride in what they achieved.