Airhead

I wrongly assumed it would be the same as my DT175...that has an 'o' ring. Seems odd that the little yz doesnt have one.

50p mate

Just a heads up for Mr Megapack (Andy), nice products and good to deal with. just got a few ss fasters from him...particulary like the japanese style philips head ones in ss or zinc. recommended.

Did the motorcycle press roadtest them, might be worth checking out ebay for some mags?

If I could offer you a tip on swing arm bolt removal, you have no doubt 'heard' me say it before. Never in a month of sundays will the bolt budge unless the frame is rigidly supported from the opposite side, in your case (in bits) find a socket deep enough for the bolt head and more besides (or tubing), place over bolt head and then on solid concrete ground, frame on side...now hit the nut end with the nut edge flush with end of thread to protect the threads. All your effort will go into budging the bolt and none will go into flexing or otherwise moving the frame.

OK then it seems the carb may be ok Like I said earlier I would not bee happy seeing a yellow spark, you need to get the multimeter out DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says

Good to see you make a start mate, thats a cool stand you have there.

Greetings bengo, G'day and nice intro ...Paul

Simon with the cover off you will see a U shaped notch on the pulley, when you turn on the key this should align with the 4mm blind hole in the cyl head. Adjust the cables to achieve this but dont have them tight or you will overload the servo.

if its burning gearbox oil thats a problem, did you remember to fit the O ring under the sleeve you mentioned?

Simon is the PV set up correctly aligned? Also the cables must not be tight

Greetings Clive

2 cycle oil will not make a difference to starting, the yellow spark is a concern, blue would be better so it might be this...more of that later. as far as the choke or shall we call it 'starter jet' goes despite what is printed on the knob here is a description of its operation on your bike...but to me the spark is the one. it's late now so....

Greeting troosers

What a transformation, great job

David, is the choke working, signs of wetness on the plug?

sounds to me like a blocked pilot jet 'bengo' take it out and can you see that it is not blocked, blow through it, hold it up to the light, use a magnifying glass to inspect it...whatever is required Greetings and

no, changing the main jet wont have much affect on the pilot mixture setting.

Greetings secret squirrel

Greetings welcocme...welcome to the YOC forum

order some new screws from yambits or get a good set of mole grips and gently grip the heads of the screws to loosen then, dont overdo the grip or you'll make matters worse. They wont be all that tight. Dunno about the mixture screw. Always use well fitting screwdrivers though or you will damage screws when they slip.

Yes like I said you should stop messing with it, remove the plug and leave all that excess fuel to evaporate over at least 3 days in my opinion Thanks Jim this to me is key to the problem here, bloody technology causing trouble, what use is an auto choke for riding it around a block of garages...no wonder it's flooded. Whats the betting our kyle is always starting it up just to see it run, hear it, smell it...just lie we'd have done all those years ago. Trouble is now it's dumping fuel in and never getting hot enough to switch off, least we could just push the lever / knob back in just as soon as possible.

Rock on

I would drain the bowl before going to all that bother, sometimes you will see a drain screw at the bottom, if so catch any fuel that comes out rather than letting it go everywhere.

welcome amongst us marc, nice bikes are YBR's