Airhead

and i bet she wore 'bloomers' NEV

I would think medium will do, and your welcome. keep it locked guard it day and night...very stealable. i would recommend an alarm

when i did my DTMX i found a blind needle roller bearing, needless to say i didnt change that one!

yes but no need, get the mrs to play the heat while you do the rocking and spraying.

in complete contradiction to what neversaydie, said use a gas blowlamp on the case around the threaded area, the ally will expand quicker than the stud, possibly spray the stud with penetrating oil briefly to cool it and hopefully get some in. If it cracks free and then jams dont force it but work it both ways, gradually the arc of movement will become more and more until it unscrews without fuss Plenty of penetrating oil is the order of the day

V ...Good to see the start of your project, you seem to know your way around a bike and a restoration so apologies for pointing out things you already know Dont forget to remove the plastic swingarm bushes, to remove them easily just cut through one sideonly along its length, it will remove easily then...new ones are available but i re-used mine with said cut without issue for many many years now look after the little metal and rubber thrust washers from the bottom of the monoshock to arm mount...they are NLA ...Paul

I'll stick with the first one drewpy

Strictly speaking no a bullet connector isnt essential and to save you time and expense you could use some of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bootlace-Ferrules-1-00mm2-x-8mm-Insulated-Red-100-/200544163510?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2eb15d16b6 strip off anout 9mm of insulation and feed the core into these things and then squeeze them with pliers, then just join them with an electrical connector...you know the ones that come in a strip of 10 or so...just cut one off. Remember to remove the fuse while working on it and replace when done, as for the R clips like i said get them from yambits, you may as well get yourself a few more bits...bulbs...sparkplug etc to make the postage worthwhile because the clips will be cheap, meantime just put some small split pins in them till the good ones arrive

you have PM louis

is this bike your daily transport, how long have you had it?

Blimey, thats looking lovely but its a high maintenance finish. Winter riding definitely out

lois as per usual you didnt fill in your profile, where are you? maybe someone can help!

did he cut a red wire AND a brown wwire?

Looks like the muppet cut the 'Live' feed to you keyswitch!!! You need to buy some male and female bullet connectors and a special crimp tool for them. give Yambits a ring and they will supply all. if you do fit bullets make sure you fit the male to the switch end and the female to the live end, disconnect your fuse while you work on it and dont forget to fit the insulating covers for each end over it all. The little clips are 'R' clips, have a word with yambits and they will supply these also. that white thing is a reed switch, its a speed limiter, if it is tucked away somewhere instead of in the speedo it wont limit the speed.

Greetings richie

we have forum for new members to intriduce themselves attached to that forum is how to post pictures

Hi John, as you will appreciate this site costs time and money to administrate, so certain features are reserved for paying members, you can post pics in forum posts but using Gallery is reserved for £5 a year standard membership or better. see the subscriptions tab at the top of the page. ...Paul

Absolutely nothing, thats a fine method for these bikes........ XJ750 (UK) Spec. 750 MAXIM (US) spec. Triumph bonnerville T120 650(Hagen frame) AJS 250 JAWA 250(gone thank god) Fanny B 200 single Suzuki 350 thing, rust,more rust and more rust.

Sean quite possibly the tension spring has broken see item 14 There is a parts digram for your bike in the workshop forum pinned ttopic 'Parts manuals for yamaha bikes'...thats where i got this pic from As DirtyDT says you can get a universal clutch holder 'mole grip' type http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35b497eb54 As for the home made bent steel bar device, it has its limitations, its ok for a stripped engine on the bench because you can place a bar onto wooden blocks through the conrod end at mid stroke...thereby locking the engine. Obviously with the barrel fitted you would have to select a high gear and have someone apply the brakes. The others dont have this limitation because they have extended handles.

Ahh so...Gleetings Glasshopper

Addendum Make damn sure you have removed every last srew from the cases before using mechanical means to part them, some engines have screws in concealed places Thats more or less the way i do my DT cases but using the bearing retainer screwthreads and pushing on the end of the crankshaft.

Now she's a pretty lass for sure

Greetings Christian

Greetings Chris

I use motul transoil in my gearbox these days but pretty much you could use anything (not car specific) top yoke is aluminium always was...must be the mongrel forks you have fitted 175's were all CDI but early 125's had points, perhaps yours is a 125 bottom end (engine#) 2A8 or the CDI packed in and someone adapted it