Airhead

Without seeing it i would say no myself especially if its a decent trials bike now

Hmmm have you had the floats out and put them back upside down i wonder

The weird bolts are to make it harder for thieves...think about it i suggest a shop

Try starting it by turning the fuel on and then off again, only turn it back on after it has run a while (before the bowl empties) as for running with choke on this will affect performance and add to the flooding, might as well get the seal ordered and fitted ASAP i think. Come to think of it if you get it started leave the fuel off for the first time until it dies, this way any excess fuel in the crankcase will be expelled...then go for the starting method of OFF wait then ON

my DT175MX is a bit like this at the moment, I have tried two carbs and both the same so i'm discounting that for now. Next thing is to swap the boyessen reeds for standard ones and see if thats it! you could also try fitting the standard filter back in if its serviceable...just in case the K&N is more restrictive, its and easy do so worth a try.

Looks cool kishan, hope you have lots of fun on it

I once had a very nice GL1100 four cylinder naked, it was a great bike and at 26 i did indeed feel like a king when out on the road

its not our government or plod it comes from europe and affects more than just this country. im sure the police will be only too willing to prosecute if it does come in though ...........

how do you know about petrol pissing out the manifold? surely you have an exhaust on the bike! as for the dying thing, yes this could well be an indication the seal is gone, in effect you maybe starving the motor of the air it need to burn with the fuel, and so it dies. Probably the carb throttle adjustment is turned to fully shut the throttle because of the fast idle caused by the seal leak and so when the WD40 plugs the leak...voilla it dies! Can be changed easily with engine in the frame, you will need a flywhheel puller...i think they are usually 27mm (check) I understand if two small holes are drilled into the seal at opposite sides and then self tapping screws are threaded into the holes....This gives something to grasp with molegrips and pull out the seal, best done when the engine is warm, maybe use a hot air gun to warm the case around the seal area

get it tig welded foamy, i would advise you unplug the CDI during welding ops

Welcome aboard JS and looking forward to your restoration of the AT Greetings

Well get you sorted Geoff dont rush into forking out for repairs, just be a little patient and not in so much of a rush...after all it's a 30 year old bike

yeah its a shame that, it would have been a nice run out for ya and a good place to show it off, ahh well you had a great day anyway eh.

Ahh yeah sorry i didnt see that, have a look for a spark when its dark and then we'll take it from there

But you said it was a 125 1980 in another post? Hi All I have just bought a !980 DT 125 but only have the chassis and engine number. Can I identify the model and year from these and how can I find the original reg? Cheers Geo

yes but sometimes they can be a little weak and yellowy, best viewed in somewhere shady in a garage really, if its weak thats another issue but at least sparking...remind me...is this a 125 with points and 175 barrel, or a CDI 175?

Always was one of my dream bikes John, nice one canna wait to see her.

yeah its no use delving into it only to find the killswitch os on

you didnt reply to my earlier questions Geoff tut tut!!

heres a few pics from the event I went along with a few neighbours one of them on this 1700cc yamaha, god its noisy with vance & hines pipes The V8 chevvy engined 'Boss Hoss' was there again This was nice...best in show infact XS650 engined chopper Boxer bobber anyone? Some old brits and the star of the show (although he didnt enter) for me was this 1938 New Imperial 250cc. The owner bought it in very bad shape fixed her up and regularly goes for 200 mile runs on her...hats off to the guy and doesnt he just look the part

NEV sidestand not applicable on these...you just have to remember or pogo round the first left hander :0 ordinarily for a DT175MX the battery and fuse would also be not applicable as they will run straight from the magneto...I think even the early 125's (with points ign) will also

Come on...out with it!!!

Hello

key on killswitch off Geoff, i'm sure we can help regardless of experience

Greetings jo feel free to post in new members section I think theres more to it than just buying wheels, something tell me the forks are different too...the brembo brake certainly is, so you want to increase power eh...and if you're on L plates your stuck with a restricted bike you know?