Airhead

i remember that but didnt get to grips with how useful it might be ...just dont get it?

hmmm no dont think so david, perhaps you were just lucky thats like saying a DTR CDI #3mb-85540 will be good to use on a DT175 #2A7-85540, infact every yamaha out there will have 85540 for its CDI as that is the number for CDI, the key is the first letters and numbers or am i misinterpreting you?

looks a litttle different but how about This

now thats really looking nice NEV wots with the L's?

This is what i'd do if it were mine Buy gasket set first, dont tackle anything until you have one (availability?) Drain the oil remove the clutch cover and magneto cover remove the engine from frame take off the barrels, heads and pistons / small ends for inspection, check for gummmed rings and also for ring wear, decoke piston crowns and note any oversize number and mark the pistons somehow L & R fill the crankcase with diesel for at least overnight to check the crank seals integrity (important) improve / replace and faults, carefully remove old / broken gaskets place piston pins in the freezer assuming alls well with everything drain diesel out place rags in the crankcase mouth (important in case you drop piston circlips) clean off old cyl base gasket, grease and fit new one oil small end bearings and bores refit pistons into bottom of barrels but leaving the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) accessible very carefully lower the complete assembly down and fit the pin and clip ...remove rag from case mouth when clip is safely home (use helper if needed) complete final assembly etc. grease paper gaskets before installing, they come off easier and can often be used again

yeah dont worry it's just doing its job, you'll only see this in cold weather

take the pipe off the carb and see if you have a good strong flow of fuel before you do anything else, there is usually a filter gauze in the fuel tap bowl...or there could be rust in the tap inlet tubes etc etc as merv says we appreciate an intro

greetings Si

greetings chris good to hear you sorted it mate coz we wouldna have a clue

dan thats not quite how it works with a 2 stroke engine, there arent any passages as such, the oil is mixed with the fuel and lubricates the crank and bearings as this mixture is passed through the crankcase

another safety vid, quite a long one...more of a film really but great to see these old ones eh and full of relevant info #!

there is normally a screw in the top of the pump, remove the screw and oil will flow out, replace when the bubbles (if any) stop

or dangleberries

OH NO NOT AGAIN !

well done, does the tester still jump out in front of ye?

happy birthday jason

youve got the only pinky in the whole of benbecula, and all your neighbours are penguins

1; possible blocked pilot jet 2 How many miles has it done then?

nearly done pat...soon be mini bike.....'THE MOVIE'

with many multi cylinder bikes you take all the carbs out together as they are joined on a chassis bar of some sort

you need to balance the carbs before you can comment about rough running really...see the manual

That'll be because its too short

no idea mate but didnt do much meself

get some WD40 in the lock to displace the water