Airhead

you should look at other things before the CDI, make sure the magneto coils are within spec and also the ignition coil primary and secondary, have you got a haynes book? are the specs in there? CDI replacement should be only when everything else is tested as oK

Photo?.....more info?

has it ever worked ollie? come on tell us a bit about it Edit...FFS ollie you have threads all over the place about your ignition woes!! sorry but i cant be bothered to root them all out out to see whats been said and done before! I dont know why you do this...they are all ignition woes so just have ONE thread !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what model ollie mk1, 2 or 3?

keep it up keiran, all help is appreciated Have you got a multimeter and a haynes book then?

I would have just patched it...after all it's little more than a bicycle

sure do mate, it's the recent stuff i forget

signed and will forward, please forward to any other forums you are on guys

original number is 90185-12046...so thats an m12 NEO but I dont know the pitch

this is why you should leave the new members forum for intros...not problems with bikes

Greetings Bruce throw some pics up

Greetings don...

its not that hard to examine jets for blockages, just hold them up to the light and use a magnifying glass if necessary. in the past i have see filter gauzes actually in the carb feed pipe spigot, so thats worth checking also. if there is a drain plug on the bottom of the bowl, take it off and see if fuel pours out there when you switch on the tap Theres a strong possibility that all you need is new crank seals though, as you said it runs on high revs for a short while, this is typical behaviour from a worn seal magneto side. You have picked a difficult subject with the RS200, no haynes manual, no parts list to be found either

whats up with yours mastiff?

like i said, none of it will work without specially made control / hydraulic cables, this is what you need to investigate

what seal is broken NEV a hydraulic one?

before you start to fit high bars consuder the extra work in getting new control canles specially made, and to a lesser extent...extending the electric cables, post in the new members section a hello is good oh and i deleted the two other same posts...one's enough...just leads to confusion why not just fit bar risers, a far better option and you'll probably get away with those without any other changes?

yeah its fookin stoopid, have you checked the seals in the DTX as compared to the TDR then?...like measured them or something?

I doubt it works for mechanical parts either, take my fuel tank for example 2a6-24110 and a DT125X is 2n4-24110 not trying to do you down with this david but its the first letters that are key...24110 simply means fuel tank

have a look at member satellite1's bike, he has a TZR belgarda italian import but cant make out the caliper properly

i remember that but didnt get to grips with how useful it might be ...just dont get it?

hmmm no dont think so david, perhaps you were just lucky thats like saying a DTR CDI #3mb-85540 will be good to use on a DT175 #2A7-85540, infact every yamaha out there will have 85540 for its CDI as that is the number for CDI, the key is the first letters and numbers or am i misinterpreting you?

looks a litttle different but how about This

now thats really looking nice NEV wots with the L's?