Airhead

it might even be the water in the combustion chamber and loss of compression due to the leaking gasket, you should sort that out first to see if it improves

I'd change the head gasket for a proper yamaha one and change the oil in the gearbox...then monitor whats happening

Coolant in the exhaust will be head gasket, possibly other symptoms will be overheating, bubbling in expansion tank, coolant dripping from frame, radiator level dropping. Gunk in the gearbox will be water pump seal or possibly bike isnt being used for journeys long enough to get the engine hot

Greetings galluses Nice bike mate you dont see many of those out and about but I always liked them. Great intro there it is a shame thay new young riders have such a difficult time these days, like you I've been riding nearly 40 years too it was so much simpler and cheaper back then!

Greetings dave, post it up somewhere more appropriate fella

Wow nobody said you did dt, I didnt suggest that Matt do this either did I, you have to be careful suggesting such things. That's why I was careful enough to say 'If it were me' thats what I'd do...on a 2 stroke bike anyway

Thats what I'd do it's relatively cheap, I'd run round the block a few times too to splash it around the gearbox....am i mad ?!

item 3 is the washer, you wouldnt want that to be floating around in there...can you imagine if it got between the crank and clutch pinion!!! http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1978/DT175E/TACHOMETER/parts.html you should take note how each plain plate is placed around the basket, you will see they all have some material missing from the outer circumference leaving a sort of pip...yes another pip. These pips are placed equally around the basket and keep the clutch in balance...ignore this or do it wrong and you'll have vibration. it's all in the manuals

with all this removal and re-fitting of the clutch casing dont be caught out with the tacho gear plate washer falling off, you must always make sure its there in front of the pinion before re-assembly. I suppose you are wise to this one now? It almost always sticks to the clutch cover and drops off when it is removed!

nice, you need an XT350 now

Yes that's it with this bike mate Ah I see now the free play is achived by the cam in the chain cover returning past the point of touching the push rod,so holding the actuating arm with resistance against the push rod is essential when setting the arm to the pip on the case via the adjusting screw in the pressure plate. Item 20 part~ 90508-20345 http://www.motosport.com/ZA/motorcycle/oem-parts/YAMAHA/1978/IT175/CLUTCH

You are having lots of trouble, I'd replace the friction plates and the arm spring if i was going through all of this bother, perhaps the plates have become hard/glazed with the slipping!

I see what you are getting at but the adjustment is done with the actuating arm pointer...and the marker on the case. The pressure plate adjuster is used to align these. Because the operating arm travels further back (aided by the return spring) there is no danger that the clutch push rod doesnt have any free play. Of course you need some cable slack to allow this. And yes the broken return spring wont help!

Have you got free play at the lever? is the cable dead free with no sticktion between inner and outer?

nothing out of the ordinary here in Manchester though I note, several people died !

Clearly the battery is over charging, I'd try this Check the regulator is functioning Back in the distant past I had overcharging problems, in my case it turned out to be the yellow / white wire had broken away from the regulator, I also had blowing headlight bulb at the time though and I note you said that you dont have this other problem. At some time I've thought a way of testing the regulator is actually doing it's job, though I have never needed to do this in anger. The test is simply to verify that current is passing through the regulator If it is, then to me It's working, It's disposing of excess voltage by passing current back to chassis. Disconnect the regulator yell/whi Set your multimeter to ac current (20A), not 100% sure on the ac setting though...try dc too put the meter leads in series with the loom socket and the regulator plug Start the engine and try different rpm's, you should see varying amounts of current passing through the regulator, if so...then it's doing a job and can be deemed OK All this can be done without any further expense because you do have a meter. Like I said, I've thought it but never done it so look forwars to seeing how you get on with this test.

what do you mean "nothing really at tick over" what and where are you measuring, or do you mean 6v at tickover and 8v when revs are 8k ?

RIP Lou Reed

Dunno but why not fill it up?

Aluminium melts at 660C John thats 1200f

mine runs at up to 260C my gauge is degrees celcius 260c is 500f

Happy 21st Steve, dont get too wrecked now will ya

It will stop the clutch lever from rattling about when the clutch is disengaged...your call really

yeah

like I said, you have to slacken the cable off, then push the actuating arm forwards by hand. it should stop / show resistance when the pointer on the end of the actuating arm aligns with the pip. Use the adjuster in the centre of the pressure plate to achieve this.