Airhead

If you fit led's and you dont replace the relay with an electronic relay, then you will need to fit resistors to give enough current draw to operate the bi-metallic strip as found in the original relay There...simples

it needs a proper led relay fella, I just bout a cheap chinese one with adjustable flash rate it seemed good for the money , dont know how it woulf fare on a bike but for that money it's gotta be worth a punt http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380898229899?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#ht_5345wt_1310

see here for exhaust restriction elsie

The manual shows a 12v battery (6 cells) so where did you get this 6v idea from?

course we will dave, welcome in fella it's great to see the enthusiasm.

yeah maybe a new battery?

hey thats looking good mate

hey norway1 you have a PM

Ray all the best to your eldest lass and saturday, is the wedding soon?

Greetings mate, I've a look around and havent seen any trace of manuals but I've put some feelers out

so keeping with the classic moped theme and since Harley was mentioned...TaDa...Harley moped a snip at £3250 lol http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1965-Harley-Davidson-M50-Aermacchi-taxed-and-mot-with-log-book-rare-collectors-/161410711015?ssPageName=ADME:SS:SS:GB:1120#ht_0wt_0

Greetings elezdee, nice to see you in here, yeah join in the fun...perfect intro

yeah see that before it sounds awesome

Dohh my head hurts!!! Damned frustrating mate. is this affecting your squires mount?

curry on Saturday? Me, Drewpy, Bippo, Finnerz, Tommy anyone else?...

yeh but my TTR is different, its an air screw between carb and engine!

Hi shaun have a read of this fella DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says Finally, if you are working with a box full of mixed parts! Mk1 1 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T250, it has two slots in the face of the flywheel Mk2 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T251, it has four slots in the face of the flywheel

dont like the sound of this...dont mess with it under warranty

chances are one of the pilot jets has clogged up, thats what happens when you dont use them enough...you may be able to pinpoint the offending carb from the heat of the exhaust headers when you first start her up?

to test that theory, just get a length of wire and bare both ends, trap one end behing an engine case screw and the other behind a screw on the frame ?

this is the new members intro area Problems with you bike would be best posted in the workshop forum !

I've never seen fork seals with the spring showing on top for what it's worth.

Welcome in bob, really like your bike fella, glad you got another just like way back

Bloody Hell!

yeah i'm out too, i was going to ask ddt about the import issues and yeah I feel the same as him now ...was kinda hoping for a nice black and silver stamped reg plate hanging off the back...damn!!