Airhead

The thing is, i suspect the bike was sold with filament indicators (bulbs), You could do with confirming this with other owners if you dont know. Howeever if it was, then you will need adifferent flasher relay than the one fitted as standard, have a look at this thread here Here Another thing is the ones you have will have a positive and negative connection so you should have some instruction that came with them, i suggest you PM exupnutta (Ollie), hes an expert with led's

Alza, are they led's and were the original ones filament bulbs?

Hi , youre in luck, 1N1 is DT100 from 1976, you can even get a parts catalog Here

ok i'm being nosey now, why would you want to do this, isnt ABS seen as an advantage?

Hi, you sure about cutting it up to get the baffle out? they usually pull out from the back after a bolt is removed although i have no specific knowlege of your can!

Looks a good un to me, but sadly i know even less than you!, i know this though...would've liked one when i was a young git!!

Hello Glenn, I would expect that the jets (at least the main jet) were indeed "bumped up" for the tuned pipe, the info will no doubt be found in a workshop manual.

Amen to all that

Check your battery connections are tight , loose terminals can do this, also check the negative terminal is clean and tight where it bolts th chassis

Not a bad idea Martin to have a video section, why dont you suggest it using the feedback tab, admin are looking for ideas when the site gets updated soon.

You need to do both chop as i said, its only when main jet size is right that you would do any chop part throttle. But if youre happy with the main jet, (Personally i cant see it being far out), then it looks like you should raise the needle again despite what they told you. I think you have done right to do this testing and not just take it as said!. Better rich than lean as you know lean = overheating = engine damage

As Merv said, possibly many things, Tank venting one is really easy to check so do that first and another easy one is to check for good fuel supply (Blocked filters) Turn fuel off, pull off the pipe from the carb and open the tap catch the fuel in something, you should get a good flow throgh clean filters. If you tap is a vacuum one you will have to remove the vac tube from the manifold and suck on that to get the tap to work.

Was the plug chop done at full throttle or part throttle? you should plug chop at full throttle first to get the main jet right, Once youre happy there re adjust the pilot air screw to suit. Then plug chop at 1/2 throttle to get your needle position check. Also did you change main jet type for type, ie brass hexagon for brass hexagon for example?

The only similar number that i can find is a 3j000, There should be 5 digits on your carb too, can you look again, sometimes they are a bit hard to see 3J000 IS THE CARB FOR A DT125G, DT125H and is a VM22SS which is smaller than the 175

Thats right they are the same carb with different jets, thirty something is way too big

I know your carb is overflowing, this will cause the bike to run rich and blacken the spark plug. the carb float should control the level in the float bowl by closing off the needle valve, even with the petcock on it should still function and not overflow. you need to inspect the needle shutoff valve and seat for wear and replace as needs be. use your clymer manual for how to do this

Fowlers are good too..

Turn the carb upside down Remove the float bowl. carefully remove the float bowl gasket, you should really fit a new one but i have got away re using the old one many times. now lift the floats until the tab in the centre just begins to touch the spring loaded needle valve, now measure the height of the float from the gasket face using either a vernier of an engineers ruler, you will notice a notch in the lip around the gasket face where you can get your rule in. bend the tab so you get the required float height look out for debris blocking the air jet as i said earlier, especially since your filter has been in bad shape Did you check that there is no debris from your old filter inside the reed valve unit, that would upset things nicely!

Tank not venting? open fuel cap and run it to hot...Just a thought, sometimes people trap vent lines or venting caps block...not many straws left to clutch at

Me too, its boggling, I know its a daft question and that you will have done this already, but im gonna ask anyway Can you see unobstructed passage from all the carb manifold connections to the air box and unobstructed passage from air inlet to air box??

Yep...Its suits you!

I expect so yes, I will try to find out more.

Ok if its not the carbs, did you check the fuel delivery to them?

Hi Rasmus, I can suggest five things 1: Check the carb floats are not leaking, Hold them with pliers in a container of hot water, watch out for bubbles (be careful not to bend the tang that operates on the float needle valve) 2: Check the float height is correctly set to 23mm 3: Using a good magnifying glass and a small light source (such as on a mobile phone) have a look down the pilot air passage and verify that the air jet is clean, this is often overlooked, if you use a compressed air line you should be able to blow through this to find air comes out where the emulsion tube (needle jet) screws in to the carb body, also check the very small holes in the side of the emulsion tube are clear. 4: Try again with the air filter removed, if it improves clean the filter 5: Carbon build up around the exhaust port, scrape clean if necessary, Best done with the head off and a rag covering the piston crown.