Airhead

Hi NOROX and welcome to the forum, Its difficult to be too precise about posts such as this without actually seeing or hearing the problem, but you are an inexperienced rider and we are now coming into colder weather, in colder weather and when you first start the bike, the oil will be at its thickest and it is quite normal for the gearchanges to be clunky, The fact that it gets better as the oil warms and gets thinner is obviously a good sign, i expect the dealer may tell you the same but he does have the advantage of seeing it for himself, Just meke sure you drop the revs when changing 1st to 2nd, and the other way a quick blip of the throttle helps hope its nothing more serious.

Yep...Dynamite Seriously though, you could do with some help and if you lived down my way i would do it

For pictures Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum

Dont say your fork seals are shot, with oil running down to the caliper!

Can you post the link for that plz

That'd be around 5 - 6 miles then

i'm surprised at you there Steve, theres only 3 positions and if you ran out and still the other two didnt work its because you were on reserve in the first place Always remember to switch back to main when you fill up, lessons learned best are lessons learned hardest eh!

You would have saved a lot of time and trouble if you had done what i said with my first response, theres no way anyone can say for sure that a bulb is good just by looking at it!, You should carry a spare anyhow so youre not stuck when this happens.

Hi Jay, nice to 'meet' you too, welcome to the forum, quite a few YZF-R125 owner here!

I agree, loom problems should be properly diagnosed using the continuity test on a multi meter, If i had a light out, i would want the loom to be the last place the fault would be, therefore i would prove it before rushing in with a craft knife Do the continuity tests and jumper to the lights male bullets (leave the black in) as has been said

With a request like that and also a sig like that, you'll be lucky!

Steve, have you got a multi meter? Before you start stripping back the loom you should unplug your tail light connections and measure between the two filament connections and the black, i know you said it is a good bulb and it maybe so but the contact is spring loaded and can stick as mine has in the past, it makes sense to eliminate this back light as a potential problem If you havent got a meter you could do as Cynic said but leave the black connected and jumper battery+ to the filament bullet male connectors, be careful not to let jumper touch chassis anywhere or you could simply remove the bulb, give a good spray of WD40 in the socket and shove the contact up and down to ensure its free!

Hi micky, welcome to the forum, to put pictures in Yamaha Gallery do this Open a photobucket account Upload your pics there with each pic you will see four fields Copy the IMG field Paste into the forum

Hi dont know owt about them, but for what its worth, check your throttle cable, is there water in it thats freezing and making it stick, or is it going rusty etc, i would disconnect it and buy one of those lube gadgets

Aye,,,tis

No that could be normal, without rocking the bike back and forth, you wont be able to select all the gears.

Yes that is clearer now youve told the full story, it seems a good idea if it works, so why not buy it then, if youre worried about wasting £7 (being Scottish) then get the thread gauge first that i posted and measure the existing banjo bolt

Hi Jas, all the rectifier does is change the AC from the magneto into DC pulses, these charge the battery Are you happy that your battery is charging ok, have you tested it?

Sorry Steve but dont know what youre on about!!

Buy a thread gauge thenHere

no, sometimes (but rarely) fine pitch sizes are used,

You should have a spare bulb, so try that one.

Watch This

WAIT And if it were a battery ignition system, you would be right, but some of these small 2 strokes are magneto ignition systems. You can tell by looking at the LT wires to the coil 1 = magneto system 2 = battery ignition system If its a magneto system and you connect Red to Black, BANG goes your fuse , you just connected battery + to chassis!! so ...if its a magneto system, ie 1 wire to the coil it should run with the ignition switch disconnected, yes it sounds daft i know but with the ignition key in the off position there is any easier route for the electrickery to flow and that is down to ground, This is how the key off position stops the engine. so disconnecting the switch means this cannot happen! If it does run without the switch, you will need a functioning kill switch to stop it, unless of course you re fit a key switch. Also the lights indicators neutral lamp etc wont work until the key switch is fitted

Hi, Just take the screw out from the side of the case near where the cable enters the case, its number 9 on this drawing Here the cable will then pull out