Airhead

Good to hear youre better and riding again I forgot...What bike did you get then?

Aah...so its not just me then . . . . . . . . and party every day .......

Its a QT50 shopper, try google images

Welcome to the YOC forum Perro

Leave it to the professionals Steve, get a quote from Philpots (may be philpotts) look them up, dont know where they are.

Thats correct,plenty of room there for future re bores Not sure myself either but wont do any harm so if you want to why not, also check yor reed petals are flat and that there isnt a big gap appearing between them and the reed cage, they tend to curve with age I have read that your later version breathes better than the earlier one, I believe the two stroke oil tank is on the opposite side between the two models, and the route that the air takes through the later one is less complicated

Hi donny o, It would be worth checking the spark plug gap at this point, it happens to be harder for the spark to jump the gap when the engine is under load (ie wide throttle), you say the engine seems to die completely with wide throttle opening so wel worth a check here.

Welcome to the YOC forum Thomazo

Good sources are Fowlers, Granby, any other that may advertise as vintage Yamaha spares specialists, the classified ads in Classic Motrcycle Mechanics magazine is a good place to look for suppliers, other sources are Wemeto, m&p, mps etc If your bike has had a recent rebore thats good and so you shouldnt have any problem there then, however there are routine checks thet can be done to check the condition of the bore, piston and piston ring wear, theses are very important checks especially on two stroke engines and should be done fairly regularly, I dont know if you are familiar with the wear specifications or testing methods but I will tell you anyhow in case you dont. To check for bore wear the easiest method is to measure the gap between the piston skirt and the bore in several places, invert the piston in the bore and measure the gap between the side of the piston and the cylinder bore. The specifications are 0.035mm - 0.040mm Another check, and probably the most important and most likely to be out of spec is to check the piston ring end gap (fitted). This gap will increases as the piston rings wear and so measuring the end gap is a great way of knowing the condition of the rings. Place the piston ring in the top of the bore and then push it down using the piston skirt to the bottom of the bore just above the cut outs for the transfer ports, use a feeler gauge to check the gap. The specifications are 0.3mm - 0.5mm. repeat for each ring and replace rings that are out of spec. The final check is to meaure the piston ring groove gap, the groove can wear in time. measure using a feeler gauge between each ring and its locating groove. The specifications are 1st ring 0.02mm - 0.06mm, 2nd ring 0.03 - 0.07mm Another thing to do is strip and clean the carb, use carb cleaner and compressed air to blow out the jets, pay attention to the air jet As mentioned previously rings will wear and its a good idea to check for that regularly. Another thing is while you are de-coking take note of the size of the piston that is fitted at present, it will be stamped on the top of the piston towards the front, for example 0.25, 0.50, 0.75 this info will be needed when its time to replace rings Always a good idea to decoke and polish the exhaust port as it will aid gas flow and delay the build up of further carbon deposits Lastly the air filter should be cleaned by rinsing in petrol squeeze it out and re oil with two stroke oil. ...Paul

Hi Morten, welcome to another DT fan, enjoy your stay and good luck with the resto

Good for you

Hi Morten and welcome to the YOC, you may be able to get some new parts still, try your yamaha dealer or any dealers in your country that offer a spares service for classic Yamaha bikes, we in the UK have dealers such as Fowlers or Granby to name a couple, in the USA there is Bike Bandit Here Bear in mind that it may be difficult to source parts for this bike. Why not pop along to the Bar and introduce yourself, theyre a friendly bunch here.

Me too, I've told Alex but now it seems ok, dunno if he fixed it.

Yep me to loving the warm digits, just got mine going, only used them a couple of times but pleased with them, I have raynauds in my hands in winter and the blood supply just switches off and they go ice cold and take a lot of warming up, the grips will prevent this from happening so thats good. forum does seem slow today to me too!

Thats a good idea Darren, they will deliver heat directly to your hands which is more ideal than the heated grip which a: are a bit unsightly b: deliver the heat through from the outside of the glove, the glove has been designed to impede the passage of heat or cold and so its one thing fighting against the other Another good point is that you still have them if you sell your bike Having said all that, i've got heated grips for the first time ever now and I like them, they wouldnt be good enough for the sort of journey you did though Arent the gloves thermostatically controlled then? The grips have four heat settings which is good.

That bike bears a lot of similarity to my DT175MX ...Well the petrol cap does...

Not much really and in my view it would be a shame to bore your vintage cylinder to its max if it doesnt need it.

Chav on a cruiser...innit!

No need to pay a fortune for helicopter tape, its so expensive because it has to be very good, protection for your bike doesnt need to be as good as that and so you can buy self adhesive sheet from Motrax...possibly others too, i covered the heel plates on my bike to prevent scuffing.

Unfortunately your bike wont be powerful enough to run heated grips, they will reduce your maximum speed to 20mph when you switch them on

Its inside under the left hand case that says YAMAHA on it http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycl.../m9018sch249444

TRIUMPH ROCKET III – TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION ENGINE Type Liquid-cooled, DOHC, longitudinal in-line 3-cylinder, 12 valves Capacity 2294cc Bore/Stroke 101.6 x 94.3mm Compression Ratio 8.7:1 Fuel System Multipoint sequential electronic fuel injection Ignition Digital – inductive type – via electronic engine management system TRANSMISSION Primary Drive Gear Final Drive Shaft Clutch Wet, multi-plate Gearbox 5-speed CYCLE PARTS Frame Tubular steel twin spine Swingarm Twin-sided, steel Wheels Front Alloy 5-spoke, 17 x 3.5in Rear Alloy 5-spoke, 16 x 7.5in Tires Front 150/80 V17 Rear 240/50 V16 Suspension Front 43mm upside down forks Rear Chromed spring twin shocks with adjustable preload Brakes Front Twin 320mm floating discs, 4 piston calipers Rear Single 316mm disc, 2 piston caliper DIMENSIONS Length 2480mm (97.6in) Width (Handlebars) 880mm (34.6in) Height 1150mm (45.3in) Seat Height 740mm (29.1in) Wheelbase 1690mm (66.5in) Rake/Trail 32º/152mm Weight (Dry) 320kg (704lbs) Fuel Tank Capacity 25 liters (6.6 gal US) PERFORMANCE (MEASURED AT CRANKSHAFT TO DIN 70020) Maximum Power 142PS (140bhp) at 5,750rpm Maximum Torque 200Nm (147ft.lbf) at 2,500rpm COLORS Jet Black, Cardinal Red

Ouch!!. just read this, sorry to hear it mate and hope you soon get better

Nice one Alex...Thanks

What do you mean theres nothing on the owners club webby? I found this on their web site "We offer a spares service for club members only to try and keep their Jawa / CZ motorcycles on the road. We have massive stocks including many odd small items, and some used parts are available occasionally too. We cannot supply a full list of spare parts that the club holds or a price list, but we can quote you for any item that you need." So did you join...and have you enquired there? http://www.jawaczownersclub.co.uk/spare_parts.htm