Airhead

No problemo mate, I sometimes think theres something wrong with my settings also....

Hi Daz, yes this is a paid member thing now along with the for sale section.

Yes...Like I said...and how did you know its name

Phil, watch out for if you need to buy a parking ticket now, I've heard you do and if thats so you can bet its vigorously policed...grabbing b4stds

Nice one Merv. Great bike and a smoker to boot...

Right as i'm not familiar with your bike I know its a four stroke single and assume its an overhead cam engine. The power loss you mention will possible be due to the stiff rear wheel rotation you mention, your bike will only be a low power output in the first instance so anything that saps any of this will result in a loss of speed., you need to get the wheel rotation free, remove the wheel, wipe out the drum with a rag and some brake and clutch cleaner spray, if there is a build up on the outside edge of the drum, then rub this away with some fine emery cloth but only stick to built up part. also whilst the wheel is off, check the wheel bearings, that about covers the wheel problem. Now as for the engine it doesnt sound good does it, the ratchety noise you describe is a bit of a worry and why was the gear select awkward? at this stage i'm thinking if its a chain driven overhead cam has the chain jumped a cog..has a valve clouted the piston? I suggest you check your cam timing as per haynes manual but really I think youre heading for an engine strip to identify whats wrong here. ...

Hi, can you elaborate further on the event, any strage noises, did it lock up will the engine turn over, can you select gears etc, will the kick start turn the engine????...tell us more

Ok I decided that now I'm on a 4 day week and since the weather is good to dig my bike out from all the stuff thats been thrown over it and my beloved DT. The ride was canal towpath from Dukinfield to Marple Bridge, Marple roman lakes, Brookbottom and onwards and upwards over Lantern Pike and home towards Glossop. I love it this time of year with all the stuff burstin with life after winter, this was the firs time I've ridden my bike for around a year and a half now so with some big big hills it was tough going, took some pics for you along the way too. This is my bike, its a Mongoose Teocali super for those of you who care And heres a shot on the towpath from my belly button cam a couple more on the towpath Stopped for a chat with this fella on the way Marple Roman Lake The river wotsit And me, making it look oh so easy The hills above Glossop, lots of downhill from now So...thats where I live, good...innit! Now where did I put that sudocrem

Err...a compression tester

we need three things for your bike to run The correct fuel / air mixture in the cylinder Adequate compression of the fuel / air mixture A spark at the right time Thats about it so lets start with fuel, did you re fill the tank immediately before the no start problem? after a continued failed attempt to start, is the sperk plug wet with fuel? By the way...try another plug even though you have seen this one sparking

Hi Rob, so you bought a carb with no spigot for oil on it? we did advise against this, it is just possible you got the pre mix strength wrong and you now have a seized big end bearing.

On four day week now.

Hi Alexander, The drum brake back plate (the bit that doesnt move) will have either a metal bar (Torque Arm) bolted to it and at the other end the metal bar is bolted to the frame somewhere near the footrest or...instead of the torque arm the back plate will have a slot in it, there will be part of the swing arm that fits into this slot. Both these methods are used, not sure which yours is but either way the back plate should be fixed firm so check this out.

Back in your day eh!!! fck me blackhat you must be passed it mate.

Bugger!! sorry to hear about this Geoff...looks like even more cycling now then eh!

ok, pull out the old rings and snap one of them, use this to clean out the ring grooves, you will find an expander ring in the second groove, if your new ring set doesnt have one then re-use that. If you can be bothered you can check to see just how worn the old ones are by fitting them in the base of the barrel and measuring the end gap. see Here

In the first instance just take hold of the rotor, put the bike in gear and try to turn it to see if its loose in any way, normally you will need to buy a puller to get the rotor off but i wouldnt rush into that yet if the rotor feels nice and tight on the shaft.

Hi, are you using the choke?

ok you do need new rings, we already proved that, you will find the overbore size on top of the piston toward the front I think, you may have to scrape a little carbon off. However I am surprised thet it didnt even go with the starter fluid and now, like 'Cynic' said it may be wise to give the magneto rotor and stator a dose of looking at just on the chance that something has come adrift or slipped. You may be getting a spark but is it at the right time? Also I am unsure that you have not seen a wet plug with your failed starting attempts yet, that just doent seem right in my experience.

Nope...Ive been biking since I was a spotty little teenager like you are now Cheeky git!!

Might be an idea to attempt a start when you have this better compression due to the oil.

Good point Cynic but it doesnt mean the ring are good, the oil test suggest they arent so they may be part of the problem.

Does it make the ruby a mellow yellow?

For parts try advertisers of vintage yamaha parts in American classic bike magazines ebay bikebandit.com TS may advise on more You just might be lucky and only need a new set of rings and a top end gasket set.

Hey guys look what I found in the local paper today