Airhead

Greetings dez sorry dunno about R1's, some great trackday pics you put up in the gallery :thumb:

You should check if its a points ignition system, sounds like the points are not opening and closing properly.

Thats a relief, i thought it was yours when u posted it in gallery

Hi harvey and welcome I know nowt about aerox's but try a spray of WD40 on the coil and HT lead, try another plug and check you have plenty of fuel ...Paul

I wanted to go on this with Goff and LTR but couldnt get the time off work as it was a weekday... Still its good to see biker groups stand up and take a stand even if the majority of the population wont...hats off to all who did go though

I would advise something a little more gentle than the hammer/screwdriver approach at first...try a strap wrench, you may even get one from your local Aldi store..i'm sure i've seen them in there.

Hi, this can be caused by leaking or cracked rubber boots that the carbs are mounted on, check the connections or better still remove them and use a smear of manifold gasket silicone to re-seal, also look out for cracks.

Nice work aaron, that bead blaster is a real handy gadget...wish i had one of those

More than likely scrap, you would need to split the cases to investigate it properly but i doubt you will be able to undo the screws so more than likely you would have to drill the heads off them.

Greetings Nick For photos see FAQ's section ...Paul

Well worth atry with their sensible prices, thats the place i got my source coils from, did you notice the logo on the picture i posted? The thing is...they only list source coils for our bike so i hope youre lucky...although that one in the link does kinda look right...keep us posted ...Paul

I would assume that the ring terminal is not beneath the screw (where it may twist and break off the coil) but is trapped between the coil assy and the stator backplate...if you see what i mean.

Greetings Andy, my advice is...give him a slap

Yes one side of the coil is connected to the wire and the other side id to a small ring terminal which one of the mounting screws goes through,,,thereby grounding that side of the coil (i think) like you can see here on the source coils

Have you got the coil off the bike and tested it? dont forget there is only one wire connected, so the return is through the mounting screws to chassis, may be a bad connection...BTW i found another cheaper one

Be careful what you buy though because the two you have posted are not for your bike , need a 2a7 prefix

Hi andy, seen you lurking and now youve popped in from the cold...greetings Ive found one...its the only one left in the world Here ....Yep its expensive and no I wouldnt pay it but it does give you the part number so save it as a search on ebay and see if another comes along, alternatively engines or part engines come along now and again so maybe cou could watch out for them. another alternative is maybe get yours re-wound, I dont have experience with this but i would give west country winding a ring and have a chat about it 01279 731172. www.westcountrywindings.co.uk Have you tried Granby or Fowlers for genuine yamaha spares? ...Paul

ha!..I recommend a stebel

Glad to hear you got away with it Darren, some spectacular pictures there. It seems almost an annual event these days, doesnt seem long a huge part of the country had this.

I have seen that some of the American bikes have a restriction in the exhaust header...any comments? Strip and thoroughly clean the carb, use carb cleaner and compressed air to get it nice and clean. make a note of all the numbers on the parts in the carb jet sizes, main jet number needle and clip position etc, set the float level to 21mm.

Mechanically all the engines are the same, the engine related differences over the years are the carb and the CDI ignition. ...Paul

Welcome to the YOC forum Paul So far as the sleeve goes, Dont know where you will get the exact same sleeve from but perhaps try some black heat shrink Here sleeve or try yambits, give Dave a ring there ...Paul

OK so a while back I bought a spare engine pile of poo off ebay and as it is at my workplace decided to investigate further. Here are the oil connections in the case And the other side with the case removed from the engine...too cramped to get access to remove the tubes so I used a pair of vise grips (mole grips) and got a hold of the spigot like this and then got a grip of the vise grip in a bench vise. Then using a wooden drift I tapped the casing and the spigot came free So here it is...removed ready for a new tube to be fitted Tip...remove the smaller spigot first and then you will have better access for the vise grip on the other I did this without any heat although it may be easier with heat if its stuck fast. ...Paul