Airhead

Hi Steve not sure about the kill at the moment but the kickstand switch needs to be working. It cuts the engine when the stand is down if the bike is in gear. It stops you riding with the stand dow and coming to grief on the first left hand bend

I've not heard of this pulley thing but have heard of a 180 'flip' of the PV. not sure how to identify if this is needed with mine though. Let me now what you find out Other things to check are the 'snorkel' from the airbox under the seat. The speed limiter in the speedo (reed switch i think) Gutting or replacing the exhaust pipe The silencer

Just the bevelled one in the 125, the other straight one came from my 175. I doubt your 125 has this restriction because no one would put up with that for more than two weeks

I sawed off curved section from a steel handlebar off a pushbike and made an exhaust header for my first bike, my mobylette...the brillo was also pressed into service here Happy days and a can of dulux

This thread is a chronicle of the things I did to de-restrict my fully restricted DT125R, If you are on 'L' plates this is something you can do after you pass your full bike test and not before. Well stage one has been sorted, I took off the exhaust and found one of those tube within a tube things in there so out came the dremel again, heres some before and afters, the last pic shows just how severe this thing is compared to the one i found in my DT175MX Comparison with the restriction i removed from my DT175MX

Diesel as has been said, it's the cheapest option. Welcome pennyless, an appropriate name to use when resurrecting an LC (you should sell it to Rich )

it was probaby a vacuum line and so you would lose vacuum which would then stop the fuel tap from opening.

Get a syringe, commonly found in injet re-fill kits (and other darker places), suck out the brake fluid completely. now use the syringe to fill the caliper with water. Tap to remove air pockets (bubbles) Place caliper in a plastic bag in your freezer with the fill hole uppermost so the water doesnt run out. The water will freeze and expand and push the piston out more...whether its enough i dont know, you may have to let it thaw and introduce more water and repeat. Never done this or heard it done...just a thought as this winter we have much damage at work due to frozen pipelines bursting

I use 'Norton internet security' seems to work fine for me...fit and forget.

Happy birthday Jason

Hmm not sure about this one, have you got the owners manual? does the starter motor work then? I will guess you need the neutral light fixing or at least have the clutch lever pulled and the side stand in the up position.

Hi Anne, he more than likely got water into one of the switches, there will be a switch in the front brake lever and one that is operated from the rear brake pedal (or is that a lever too?) sorry not familiar with Aerox's. However try to identify the switches, you will see wires coming from them. When you find them give the a good spraying with WD40 whilst operating the relevant lever / pedal

What year is the bike? Do you know the float height setting?

i suppose pulling the choke out seems to fix the problem, yes take the pilot jet out and you will no doubt find it blocked, soak it in a bottle of nail varnish remover or as you say use aerosol carb cleaner. Dont be scared of poking it with a nylon bristle from a brush. The diagram 'Cynic' was referring to is really only for the starting circuit...ie the choke

Probably not changed much with the 'field bike' fraternity, except they now have no fields left so ride on the road

Not a bike that lends itself to any great performance gains through tinkering IMO, its all been talked about before...use the search function. Time for a bigger bike i think.

Happy birthday Pilningas Oh and Rockerted, still riding at 70 although not on Yam's now

It will be running better than ever When i get it running I hope

Thats right, we cant do it. No one here knows anything about TC'c in fact we've been looking for an expert and waheyyy....you popped up

Gives the motor more flexibility, better power output over the range of revs, rather than just one defined power band, at least thats my view of it.

So, is the power valve the intake valve or the exhaust valve? Its a two stroke engine, the power valve effectively changes the height of the exhaust port to give maximum power at different RPM's, ie a lower port for low RPM's and a higher port for high RPM's, it mas an electrical servo motor to match the power valve position correctly to the current RPM value.

Youre welcome However someone who knows more than me may add to my offerings.

If you cant see what i mean then it doesnt matter, try a Haynes manual

Yep, all present and correct, welcome back shokz