Airhead

ok for that matter...while your'e busy with the WD40 try spraying around the reed block to cylinder joint, the crank seal mag side, the cylinder base joint, the cylinder head joint. Thats about it.

reeds that have a small gap wont cause an air leak so it's not that. If you are concerned about an airleak you should investigat the magneto side crank seal. Remove the cover and start the engine; then spray WD40 through the slots in the magneto towards the crank seal. Listen for any change in engine speed / tone, a change means you get to replace the seal.

Nice tidy example mate, its gonna seem so slow though after the bikes you've had

Needs constant revs unless the choke is on? This sounds like a blocked pilot jet, can you see daylight through this jet? Welcome to the forum Nice trainers...where did you get them? ...Paul

any chance of a picture for 'wild foamy' he may want first dibs

whats the problem?

My god its back again!! Read this my friend.

Pat I know exactly how you feel i've been there several times before myself. Above all other pets a dog is loyal brave and trusting, a border collie is indeed one of the more intelligent dogs anyone could share their life with. Try to remember the best times you had together instead of feeling down.

Well its going somewhere, its either leaking to the ground (or possibly yourebrake) leaking to the coolant, remove the rad cap and dip some paper in the liquid, it its oil you will see and it will not dry out or its being burned and would be very smokey you will need new brake pads either way whether its brake fluid or oil but not before the problem is solved.

Class lmao

How long have you had the bike? has it been better than this? Its a 50cc moped and not a powerful one at that...wouldnt you expect to downshift on hills? Cant see a K&N making it better but you should do a compression test, it may need new rings or at worst a re-bore. How many miles has it done? Ever had a re-bore before?

ok Tommy its a sticky one.

That sniffer dog...he looks sh1t scared

Good one boys, nice to see members out and about together and seeing you didnt have any football matches to watch or owt

me too, helicoil it. you need to be real careful with drilling though, I would remove the barrel myself and make up a jig so thet it could be done on a pillar drill. Doing it by hand would be much quicker though but harder to get dead straight.

When I were a lad I used to collect car registration numbers, thankfully I grew tired of it soon enough. perhaps this is just a progression on that theme . As for getting away with it I imagine it depends on several things what type of bike what the copper thinks of you and what mood he is in ohh and not to forget...whether he is anti bike as some are

ok us mods cannot do this. I will bring it to Alex's attention.

Dunno Mits, but how about Rivington barn ? Youre near to that

Congrats on passing the test and welcome to the forum Ray. a driving instructor eh? well i'm sure that fazer is in good safe hands. Great choice of bike too. ...Paul

His creator died this monday gone. RIP. http://celebrity.uk.msn.com/news/articles.aspx?cp-documentid=153860538

Glad to hear the scum didnt get anything OT.

Welcome in Gary, dunno who has YZ knowlege bu we'll see

on my oil pump it has a plastic cap held on with a clip instead of a screw personally I would rather have a screw..te he Anyway there is something you should do when first starting the bike. Remove the oil pump cover and with the bike idling, turn the pulley until it stops this will allow the pump to stroke at its maximum, and will quickly fill the oil delivery pipe...around 30 seconds should do it.

I know its a bit late now as you are half a day in front.