Jump to content

Airhead

Moderator
  • Posts

    13,978
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    72

Everything posted by Airhead

  1. The clear pipe is a good way to go, it should definitely pulse through the pipe at idle although the pump stroke is much reduced . But when held fully open at idle the oil should travel around 6/7mm with each stroke of the pump. Nothing to do with the vacuum, it should do this even with the delivery pipe disconnected from the reed block. By the way...could there be an issue with your reed block oil spigot being blocked? Try disconnecting the delivery to see
  2. is thethrottle turning the pulley ok? try turning the pulley manually when the engine is idling, this allows the oil pump to maximum stroke and the bike should smoke heavily.
  3. Hmm makes me wonder just what they needed, is there such a thing as a tealeaf badge then, I remember a while back you were after a motorcycle for them too.
  4. what about plug gap and re-making the connection of the HT lead to the plug cap, cut 3/4" (20mm) off it if you can and set the plug gap smaller
  5. Airhead

    oldie

    well Kev welcome back, we dont mind if yer LC's a bit manky, will your sparring partner also be coming back?
  6. cant be done with it in lol, anyhow it may not be that. If it is though more special tools are needed...ie a valve spring compressor to get the collets out to enable valve to be removed, then some valve lapping pastes and a sucker to spin the valve, Oh its been so long ago for me to get delved into a four stroke all in all I think you are being optimistic about the time scales involved once you start to work on this bike, who knows how long it will take the shop to order parts? We are just pointing out possibilities here, only when you strip the motor will you find the reason for the lack of compression, so i'll shut up now.
  7. fair enough it looks like you mate has the job, good luck with it,watch and learn. only one other thing may have a similar effect and thats a sticking carboned up valve, this could cause the smoking and the compression loss just as much as the rings could.
  8. Could be anything Robbie but it sounds promising. Try getting your plug hot with a hot air gun, you will need some thick leather riggers gloves to handle it, re-fit it quickly and try again, remove the choke after around 30 secs and give it some revs.
  9. This is not a small job for a beginner, personally I think you should get your (experienced ?) mate to do it and you play the willing assistant role or this bike could be tommorows 'basket case' Also you seem to be convinced that the rings are fcked! how do you know this for sure? You started off by saying Now fcked rings would not usually cause a running bike to stop mid-flight so
  10. You'll save a small fortune on prezzies . . . . . . . a very small one
  11. I assume you will have to remove the engine from the frame. Gaskets both head and base will need to be replaced, re-use them at your own risk...I wouldnt but get a price and decide, Paul has re-used his with gasket sealant so you will need to buy this is you decide to do the same. Tip, when using any sealant on gaskets be careful not to get any excess into any holes or oil passages that may be present in the gasket. How would I know how much they cost?
  12. Aaaaggghh i replied to this and it was lost in the ether!! On the subject of cam chains you need to be careful not to drop it into the engine. tie some string to each end and get someone to hold the strings while the cylinder is lifted (dont forget the rags). When the chain ends exit the bottom of the cylinder you can retrieve them and tie the strings to something to keep it all in place.
  13. Dont forget you will need cylinder head gaskets x 2 and base gaskets x 2, bear in mind they may or may not be different for each cylinder. Also get your head around the valve / camshaft arrangement. be sure you know how to do the alignment of the crank and camshaft, I dont know about this bike but its possibly a chain driven overhead cam, find out. Also find out about the cam chain tensioner, you may need to slacken it to remove and replace the chain if it has one. Torque wrench settings and a torque wrench?? have you got these? Tip When lifting the cylinders, stuff rags around the crancase opening when it is exposed before the cylinder is removed, then if there are any broken rings etc they wont fall into the engine. we live in a digital age so take pictures and lots of them, these will show routing of wires pipes, anything really...just for reference later when its time to re-assemble it. Bag things and label the bags, front cylinder...back cylinder...front head...(you get the picture)
  14. so this multimeter lead, did it have a good hold of the plug, because I know these leads and the croc clips are small. anyway its dark now and perhaps you shaded the plug from the brightness of the sun Again...do you have a spark?
  15. I dont know most of them but I imagine its a fair assumption. I think they dont like bikers in the main anyhow so it seems to work both ways, look at north Wales for example
  16. OK yes you should see a spark from the plug but the plug needs a good ground connection. Taka a car jump lead and place the plug body in one jaw and the other end of the jump lead get a grip of the battery neg terminal or a clean bolt to the frame somewhere. Have you got a haynes manual for this DTLC?
  17. i'll buy you a pint jebb, dont forget the video mate
  18. Chris thats a vaccum tap and when in on and reserve the engine needs to be running, the vacuum developed in the inlet manifold then opens the fuel supply. the PRI position bypasses this and gives a fuel supply constantly, you would for example use this position briefly if you had run the bike completely out of fuel. try the PRI position but it may be something else, not familiar with the bike in question but 'oldtimer' is a good person to ask. Having said this look for damage and melting etc at the reg / rec unit.
  19. Do a video of it for the forum.
  20. I bet the fs1e will fetch good money if sold or broken and sold, it would be a shame to rob the seat. surely you can find something much more unloved and just make a few brackets to fit...doesnt have to be a Yamaha Just my opinion
  21. Watch out for positioning on the plain plates, they may have lobes on the circumference, take care to balance the lobes around the basket rather than put two or more into the same slot.
  22. Airhead

    module 2

    Well done friedegg, take it steady..shiney side up and all
  23. Nice one Kevin just tell her the battery is free of charge, it'l be ok then
×
×
  • Create New...