Airhead

welcome back foamy, +1 ^^...just not using it that's why.

Spellbindind Vez...all 14 seconds of it looks good quality, is that from within the OG patented windproof/waterproof camera mount?

Orrrrr....could it have been??? The cat in your exhaust ? ?

NO!!

Ha! go on...whats the embarrassed smiley for

Nice one Vez, lets hope it makes a big difference along with the CDI wire ground

crank seal replacement, do the left (magneto) side as you stated oil under the cover in the flywheel area. Right side (Clutch side), well if you are going to replace this one you will need to buy either a pukka clutch locking tool or weld a couple of plain plates to a hande, this is necessary to remove the clutch basket. I think you have to do this from memory as well as removing the primary drive gear. You will benefit from reading the recent topic 'CT3 runs then dies'

Cylinder / cylinder head removal, and crank seals can be done with engine in frame, are you only going to change the left crank seal

It would have to be a hell of a seal leak to cause no compression, take the head off and see if the piston is holed for some reason

No all bearings will be fine, some people also say next larger jet too, it's up to you.

Try here my friend, more expertise on that model

chris unless you only want replies from peoply who KNOW the bike, you should use pictures me thinks

What is it BWJ ?

Never mind that bollox! y'know this old man toner stuff...are you selling it or what? Only Drewpy told me to ask you, hes not been standing to attention lately so I reckon you will make a steady income from him, his last supplier failed to meet the demand

I lowered my Bandit so my daughter could use it. Lowering it was easy with some different 'dogbones' , however this caused a headache with the side stand...as the bike was now lower so in effect the stand was too long and the bike stood much too upright, I mean seriously too upright and in danger of falling over on anything other than a camber. I got round that by fitting a stand (with a little modification) from an earlier bandit as it was shorter. Dont know if you will have the same trouble but it's a pitfall to bear in mind.

Try motocarb in uk, Allens in uk or siriusconinc in Canada

Hi, yes it seems you may have an oil leak trough the crank seal. Get it running and see if it is also an air leak through the seal. Can be changed with engine in frame , you wil need a flywheel puller and something to get hold of the flywheel (without damaging it) so you can undo the nut holding it on. ...Paul

is the neutral light on? are you pulling in the clutch lever when pressing the start button?

The $99 is ebay item number 220483613754

If you think about it the rag is not needed, there is no force because you have the crank locked while you undo the crank nut.

PMSL but also gutted for you mate, your description of jamming inert useless material such as your grey matter was highly amusing. On a more serious note http://global.ebay.com/Yamaha_248-16150-02-00_CLUTCH_BASKET_ASSY/280531046114/item http://www.nwvintagecycleparts.com/search-results.php?q=248-16150-02-00&st=spart http://www.nwvintagecycleparts.com/search-results.php?q=248-16150-02-00&st=spart Dohhh!!! one of these NW Vintage jobbies is $99 on ebay but the url ling takes it to their $150 one?? Just paste this into ebay motors and you will see it for $99 NOS Yamaha AT1 AT1M CT1 CT2 Clutch Basket 248-16150-02 What I do when undoing the primary drive gear is to remove the barrel, head, piston and small end bearing. then place a 1/2" socket drive extension bar through the small end in the con-rod. Now turn the crank until the stroke of the rod is 1/2 way down. Now pack under each side of the soket bar so that it will jam against the packing when you undo or re-tighten the primary gear nut. Hope you can make sense of that ...Paul

Ooohh...I feel a picture coming on

You have an air leak Possible places are 1: Carb slide is not bottomed for whatever reason have you put the slide in the right way round with the cutaway facing the filter box? 2: Cylinder base gasket not sealing 3: Cylinder head gasket not sealing 4: Leaking reed valve manifold joint or carb to intake boot joint 2,3 and 4 Can be investigated by spraying WD40 around the relevant places

I didnt say head, I said base...that's cylinder base.

You had the barrel off? and when you cleaned off the old base gasket you left a teeny weeny piece of gasket by mistake now that piece is causing an AIR LEAK This is of course a guess Have a spray around with WD40 and see if it affects the engine speed / tone, this may point you in the right direction to find the air leak. Feel free to intro yourself in 'The Bar' ...Paul