Airhead

I painted it and added a heatshield, the original 'heat proof' laquer was beginning to burn, must have been that hot weather

welcome mark

yes it does, you need to get a manual it will tell you where to adjust it to. As a rough idea though they are usually 1 and 1/2 turns out from gently closed.

Cheers for the heads up drewps, i'll take my lock Oh..... scouter

Karl we are camping from Friday until Sunday, is it ok with your parents for you do do this, otherwise its a bit of a trek on the 50...to expect to ride up there, find the place, do the ride-out and find your way home on your own, I dont think that would be good. Youre welcome to join us but you will need a sleeping bag, roll mat and a few bits and bobs in a ruksack, let us know is your bike in good running order?

2.1 Ohms, not kOhms,

Hmm listen to the voices of experience, I was just guessing and it seems I would have come a cropper also.

Great stuff, yeah seems like the sun shone for once up there. Fancy just bumping ino Pat like that as well, what a surprise eh?

sorry it's slang for 'proper' puller

yes ok that makes sense to me. you should not really be risking a 2 arm puller on the flywheel, pukka pullers are so much better, cheap too.

puller is 27mm lh thread yes, available from yambits wemoto no name but a few, how come you havent filled your profile in...where are you?. These are in UK seals can be got out sometimes by drilling a small hole in opposite sides then screwing a self tapping screw in and pulling on it. Personally I havent tried this but I can see the attraction of not having to strip the motor down completely.

Dunno Phil but if it were me I would leave it for at least a month to cure fully, then lightly key it for the new coat.

Its a DTR

First thing...Has the magneto flywheel woodruff key sheared? Then disconnect the main switch and the Blk/Wht wire from the kill switch (in the headlamp shell?) try again for spark

Try Granby or Fowlers http://www.fowlers.co.uk/index.html Generally regarded as great parts suppliers.

Wel i'm impressed with all of that. I have never heard of seal pullers and would love to see them and hear how they work. The carb syncronising too, pics and description would be good. A man of your talents should have no problem with pics, we made it easy...see Forum Help > FAQ's As for the torch, could have used a hot air gun, just a little less severe. Funny though, there shouldnt be any gasket cement used...just a gasket?

Go to the workshop see the sticky 'Parts manuals for yamaha bikes' find yours download it look in the service data Assuming your bike is listed ...Paul

As it's now in bits I would recommend replacing the crank seals, gear shaft seal and kicker shaft seal. Mainn bearings?? give them a good clean and feel for roughness or free play, replace these too if there is any doubt.

lol, didnt think you'd find it

In a word...no If your ngearbox oil is milky and emulsified.

Oh no! Fish in the tank??

Have pinned it for you, if it comes back be sure to let us know.

Does you carb have a slide like in the picture you linked? If the answer is yes, then put it in so that the cutaway at the bottom of the slide...faces the air filter, You will see that the slide goes right down to the bottom as the spring forces it down.

Good for you liam, its a graet feeling getting a new bike eh?

Thats the carb needle, now the clip (you called a splitpin...ugghh!)need to be in the correct groove...I dont know which this is bu if you dont try the middle one. As for the revving I suspect you may have fitted the throttle slide in the wrong way, if you see the cut-away section at the bottom...well this should face the air filter ...not the engine. If you have put it in wrong the slide will be full open. You will see there is a groove down one side, this aligns with a peg inside the bore and keeps it all straight Have you got a manual? this will tell you the correct clip groove to use ...Paul