Airhead

Good info but theres nothing 'new' in it, it is commonplace that the oil capacity stated is from a dry just built condition, not added to a previously filled motor.

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Good well done, issues with sudden ignition failure, ie 'going on holiday then it wont work' are well worth investigating without lashing out on an expensive CDI. Having said that I do think it is wise to watch out for a CDI at the right price now you have the bike running. Smoke...aw dont worry about that...the more the better I use this Phil, its a chain wrench for removing car oil filters in action I cut some strips of fabric backed rubber from some work gloves and place these under the chain for a good grip. Same method for tightening only I then use a torque wrench on the nut. As for the light brackets you never really gave us any useful info like measurements or better pictures

Really sorry to be reading this Merv, I'm glad your ok and I wouldnt rush back to work mate, well not on Monday unless by some miracle you really are better, anyway whiplash will surely keep you off a while you just watch...the guy in the car claiming for whiplash, get well soon mate and we'll be seeing a bit more of you one here maybe.

I never heard of a "points eliminator", I can only assume you mean convertion to a CDI system. I wouldnt bother with that myself.

Wots all this shouting Only girls bikes are pink ones no need for rants is there?

Welcome Arron Are you getting another DTR then?

I know you are a girl, therefore I would consider yours to be a girls bike.

Dont you just hate it when that happens.

Yep I doubt it is 32 to 1 though, thats just it...it's a guess unless you monitor exactly how much fuel is used to use up 1 litre of oil. I would assume a mix of 40 to 1 would be more like it. 40 to 1 is 2.5% mix, so this is 0.5% too little, need to add the 0.5% in the fuel as stated. a mix of 200 to 1 is 0.5%, or 5ml every litre of fuel...thats a teaspoon for every litre of fuel.

Great news Goff...Congrats on passing and on having a job out of it. Well done

Nice little DT, cheap too ...boy done well

Nah Trevor went on a bandit and slept with a Harley chocolatestarfish has an FJ1200, I saw a nice one of them in the carpark.

Me too, I broke my mouse trying to fix it

Hi MANA, thats a tough one eh? I imagine an American import bike would be hard to find spares for in the UK. OK i'm assuming your from the UK though you didnt say.

unplug the rear brake switch. Place voltmeter black lead on a good ground...or battery negative. Check you have 6v at the brown (loom side) connector with the ignition on and lights off. Now is there still 6v at this connector with the lights switched on?

And They're Off

Welcome back Goff...+1 what Drewpy says, the place hasnt been the same with you not here

Really great to meet you guys and put some faces to the names, we lucky with the weather too some big distances travelled by Mervyn (Pilningas) Jason(Cynic) and top of them all Pat (2wheels) 350 was it Pat? Hats off to you for making the effort. Blackhat that widowmaker H2 is a real smelly noisy beast but at least it was quiet in the middle of the night...ehh Kev Cynic, Oooopsss Thats one thing I do like about my DTR, you can see the oil level easily when standing off the bike. Glad it wasnt more serious. Last and not least CardboardDave ...what a bike..

OK on fist glance there is an issue with the charge (aka source) coil, this is to charge the ignition capacitor in the CDI not the battery. Check and double check the connections near the magneto. has the wire come off the plug or socket, any corrosion etc. Unplug it and test from the connection on the mag side and an engine case screw, is it the same?...confirming a coil issue. I cant help thinking this is a connection issue, you dont just 'go on holiday' come back and find your coil went kaput If it still tests bad, pull off the flywheel and give it a viual inspection for now. Electrex world will supply you one and your bike will no doubt be up and running cheaply but it will not likely fall within the quoted spec of 420 Ohms, I have one of theirs fitted at the moment and it measures 381 Ohms . A yamaha one will be expensive unless you get lucky on ebay ...which is doubtful. I just bought myself one from the states. All things considered if it were me I would go for the Electrex world one. Other concern is the black/white, disconnect it at the CDI when testing for spark in the short term until you find the reason for the apparent path to earth.

See you later numb bum, the most uncomfortable bie I could imagine to be on for that kind of mileage.

They cant do that!! Can they Could we

F..k that! save me a curvy one

Ahh I see yours is a later cable arrangement than mine and does indeed have a self adjusting cable. not sure what the issues are but just check that the pully hits the closed off position pip and peg aligned...at the same time as you hear the carb slide 'clunk' shut...well thats what i'd do.

Not sure what you mean by self adjusting, the more the throttle is opened the more the pulley turns which allows the pump stroke to increase. The only adjustment is to use the cable adjuster to align the pip on the pulley with the pin that is in the end of the pump shaft at closed throttle.