Airhead

Yeah a magnet will confirm, i dont know of any aftermarket ones that were steel. I have only bought baffle packing from shops so you will have to give Yambits a call to confirm but surely a pack would be enough. EDIT Ahh I see Yambits sell the baffle pack in sheets and sell wire wrap for it too. I have no experience of this method...I have only used the loose stuff see link. Wear a dust mask and work outside, its made from fibreglass wool I think so tends to float around in the air a bit. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Exhaust-Baffle-Packing-130grms-/150588819449?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item230fcb07f9 http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/HL-555555/ A nice little tutorial for the sheet stuff here, looks easy and less messy

OK then did you compare everything between the two carbs at the point of swapping them, ie Jet needle Needle jet Clip position Main jet Pilot jet Throttle valve cutaway number ????? According to Haynes manual 1991 is a 3RN4 Dates of import Jan 91 to Feb 93 Frame / Eng no 3MD-000101 Main Jet 210 Air jet 0.7 Jet needle 5J25 Clip 4th from top Needle jet Q-2 Throttle valve cutaway 2.5 Pilot jet 22.5 Power jet 60 Air screw turns out 1 1/2 Float height 21mm

I thought the OEM ones were constructed in such a way that they were one piece and there was no access to the inner wadding Thats was it as far as I can remember, they were also made of steel and very heavy whereas the aftermarket ones were generally aluminium and had access to change the baffle packing. Your local bike shop may have the packing, or I know that 'Yambits' sells it and will deliver to your door. You are right about changing it, really this should be an annual event and pack it reasonably tight or it wont work

Why cant you work out the wiring, has your bike got no loom on it, surely its just colour to colour?

The 77 model looks to have a rubber strap around the CDI onto a bracket of some sort, near to the battery.

Pat, its good to see a proper intro 1975?.. did they really have CDI's way back then ...Paul

Hmmm it's so old it doesnt matter, you should hear mine is it with an original OEM silencer then or what ?

Greetings cheeku just in time for winter (not that your winters are cold though eh?)

Greetings ghb with a DT twinshock

Fck me I didna understand any o that, What no camper van

Save the stamp, build a 'Trebuchet' and send it direct

Good timing with all the nice dry weather we've had...enjoy you new found freedom

Greetings I.m , when did you get the bike?

Can you see anything like this, this is a DT175MX carb, I take it yours is similar but possibly has water pipes also?

or was it B.O.G.O.F on Fridays

H E L L O .O. O ???

what is the year and model of your bike?... you havent filled in any of your profile and I cant remember What are the id letters-numbers on the original carb body...what are the id letters-numbers on the replacement?

Yeah regulator trouble, visually inspect it and the connections to it, if its a one wire affair like on my DT175 they seem pretty reliable. I dont know the bike, how it's mounted or have a wiring diagram so can be much more help. I just posted something in the thread about 125 lights, same subject.

Could be a symptom of a duff voltage regulator or just corroded connections to it. Try measuring the voltage across the battery terminals, rev the bike up and check the voltage doesnt rise above (I'm guessing 14V-14.5V) anything significantly over this will put your bulbs at risk.

Greetings Allen

Hi muppet, I would guess the pilot screw should be around 1.5 turns out from gently closed (all the way in), failing that I would be having a look at clearing the pilot jet. Hey I was kinda hoping to see some pics now you have finished it

Greetings texasfisherdude

Happy birthday Mike

Greetings mishkins Good luck with the test.

You should wait until you are fully legal and stop using it, you know it makes sense