Airhead

Place the bike on a stand, disconnect the cable from the drive unit...spin the wheel and see if the drive rotates.

Can the connections be reversed? a photo?

I like the blue but what about the red writing, I prefer white like the black one has?

what about the forum name Paul? I take it ...it will be absent?

Wheels look superb Jason they suit the black / yellow bike well

I dont recognise that piece of plastic phil, the pulley should turn round without hitting a stop

Not sure if you were asking bill but I make that a 3BTV version 3BTV 2YL 0125101 0135999 XV535 1994 sounds a bit of a nighmare over there in Thailand

It's not as daft as it may sound but chack the brakes are not binding, can you feel any undue heat after a ride?

wow that would be a hell of a journey, best wishes to all who take part it it...good luck

I am having a hunch about the crank seal left side, is there any trace of fuel behind the points cover? Also check for splits in the rubber inlet manifold, you can spray WD40 on it when running to see if it affects anything.

Greetings Rob, take care on the new bike mate we wanna see more of you this time.

theres lots of it about...I had an oncoming car driver swerve towards me last week as I was filtering. Nutcase!

Greetings Mike and welcome to the forum, good luck with the test

Happy birthday Jimbob one of my faves http://vodpod.com/watch/308385-rick-dees-disco-duck-1976

pizzle, nice intro fella

XJ550J

NEV I understand you should wrap the loom in loom tape, it has no adhesive so allows the cable to be formed into shape...just tape at the end.

Hi had a quick google, here are shops that has a 125DX in stock for breaking http://www.browniesmotorcycles.co.uk/PHP/Breaking.php http://www.motorcyclesandparts.com/usedspares_results.asp?brand_id=33&action=showspares

Get it done ASAP or your engine will suffer overheating and possible damage to your new piston

that sounds like it needs a bigger main jet, was one fitted with the big bore?

yes of course the level switch is in the oil tank. yours is an electrical issue but now you are questioning usage? check your pump setup...the pip and the peg at the pulley align with closed throttle, the stroke increases if you turn the pulley by hand to its stop. If you really want to check usage Brim fill the fuel mark the oil tank level with a pen mark add a known amount of oil in litres (say 300ml) ride the bike and record all fuel added untill this mark is again reached, including one last brim fill of fuel. calculate the ratio of fuel to oil There is a bleed screw at the top of the oil pum and it's always a good idea to remove it al let a little oil flow out while watching for any air bubbles...replace if none.

dammit my reply post disappeared into the ether

you are correct that it is a bulb check when in neutral. The fact that it comes on and off with a full tank and in gear suggests a faulty level (note the word level) sensor in the tank. this should put you at ease because unlike many bikes it is nothing to do with oil pressure, so long as you see smoke and the level in the tank falls, you can investigate at your leisure.

I dont see why for a while it was powerful and next time not so. Could it be something to do with the variator, rollers or whatever these things have? All of which is beyond my experience

Why not it's an easy one to try, it will be noisy and you couldnt ride it like that as it may melt the inner mudguard and the side panel. I dont know what a forest safe arrestor is? Did you chech for a header restriction?