Airhead

i dont know but ask a yamaha main dealer?

Greetings Jayne

yeah syringe it in through the bleed nipple,

good one Jayne, post up some pics and

wow 500 miles, now thats some ride, a holiday?

pass your test morph and get a 650

Sara saludos y bienvenida, con la potencia de Google que puede mantenerse en contacto

yes that would do it, should be an easy and cheap fix, just get a new connector

hey morph, did you give up on XVS you bought? the one they wantad to charge delivery for?

have you checked your oil level dude? hmmm an intro is always a good start on a forum too

we have a project section if you want to show off your skills

tell us about the little DT then?

yeah and just double check the crank seal again, you implied evidence of a change before...see it it's repeatable, just so long as you can get her started

greetings dt50, stick around and enjoy your stay...i've not forgot ( keep an eye out for a seat) wheres ya from then sheffield?

if the head gasket is the culprit you will see the engine temp hotter than usual but have you still got a temperature indicator on the bike? also the collant level will be reducing and if very bad you may have bubbling in the expansion tank base gasket? well thats an easy one to check with the WD40 also might as well try them wizzer eh

yes it usually is youll be able to see when you get the rotor off. you'll need a proper rotor puller...dont be hitting it with a hammer lol. the trick is to carefully screw in a couple of self tapping screws at opposite sides of the seal, then warm the area slightly if possible and pull on the screws alternately all this is just a guess but its often the case

lol look at this one, why not message him and ask if you can pick up personally from california DTLC barrel £760 postage from Keighley west Yorks http://www.ebay.co.u...ME:B:SS:GB:1123

if its a seal it will be the one on the left behind the flywheel rotor. 1: is there any petrol / oil in the magneto area? 2: Try spraying WD40 through the gaps in the rotor when she's running...aim at the seal....does it affect speed or tone from the engine?

Greetings Cerd try the search facility perhaps? so you YBR is the YBR Custom?... a fast one

i'll keep an eye out dave, full seat or just a cover?

greetings ant did you read the dutch cafe thread?

yeah they term it 'pinned open' they make the PV full open all the time, the consequence is lots of clutch slipping and plenty of throttle...good high revs power but poor low revs power. you need to check the loom connector that usually goes to the servi is intact and source a servo from ebay?

Ahh my bad I was getting confused by the term 'cable' you mean an electric cable! The cable in question attaches to the temperature sensor on the cylinder head...top right on this picture here It seems you do not have a working PV, who knows there may even be no servo on your bike, the servo turns the power valve by means of cables and a pulley you can see a servo (detached from the frame) here and the cables into the pulley enclosure

yes it will run badly like this, get it sorted. there is a method to align the PV correctly when you get a new cable

that will be one of your power valve (PV) cables, performance will be badly affected with this broken