Airhead

sounds like a duff battery to me! a good charged battery should have read more than 5.8v in the first place. What battery charger have you been using to charge it with?

maybe as a temporary measure...a piece of nyon air tubing, if it wont quite go on you could put a slit in it then it will...maybe worth a try if youre stuck depending on the thickness

or as a compromise perhaps a flip up one?

wow you certainly didnt show up empty handed ! Greetings and

This fella had issues with his dash also...a new battery fixed it, yes I know you already did this so thats why you should check connections, fuses and voltage

Nice one dogmi, lets hope you get the bike's digital dash sorted soon. And next winter lay-off, keep the battery charge topped up eh?

dont know the bike dogmi but check the battery connections are good and not disconnected or broken. Check any fuses with a multimeter. Measure the 'new' battery voltage it should be more than 12v, charge it anyway and see how it goes?

Greetings revolver and , nice intro cobber

dt175g is the same as DT175MX mk2 as far as i'm aware so the checks i posted apply! get yourself a multimeter and do the checks if you are serious about getting this thing fixed and stop trying to measure success by the degree of pain it gives you.! dont forget to post a proper intro in new members forum...

it does seem the faint spark mey be an problem, try this DT175MX Ignition checks There were two versions of ignition systems on DT175MX bikes. The mk1 version from the earlier bike had a 7 wire CDI the early bikes had a round section swing arm. The mk2 version had a 6 wire CDI, the red wire is absent on these. These bikes have a square section swing arm. The HT cap (AKA spark plug cap) unscrew it off the HT lead, it is supposed to be a resistor cap so should be around 5K Ohms The ignition coil primary...Orange wire to battery neg should be 1 Ohm +- 10% The ignition coil secondary...HT lead to battery neg should be 5900 Ohms +- 20% If the readings are much higher, check the ignition coil has a clean ground connection. Yes and the ignition coil mounting is a wiring harness ground point too, so check its clean and bright there. Disconnect all the wires from the CDI. Then using your multimeter on the loom side of the connectors. Black probe on a clean part of HT coil ground point Red probe on...... Orange, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 1 Ohm (HT coil primary) Brown, Meter to 2k Ohms, expect 420 Ohms for mk1 and 300 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto charge coil) White/Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 12.4 Ohms for mk1 and 10 Ohms for mk2 (Magneto pulser coil) Red, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect 13.6 Ohms for mk1 only. (Source coil 2 or high speed coil) Black female connector, Meter to 200 Ohms, expect dead short repeat for black male connector Any difference in the results for the two black wires may possibly be rectified by cleaning the front engine mounting bolt and a little of the frame behind the bolt head, then tighten to torque spec. Black/White, Meter to 20K Ohms, with ignition off expect dead short, with key on expect open circuit, with kill operated expect dead short (Engine kill operation) If all these tests are good you would be well advised to try another CDI. If they are not good...reading higher...disconnect and clean any plugs/sockets you find along the way, if the magneto coils are reading lower, new ones needed if more than 10%...or so the book says Finally, if you are working with a box full of mixed parts! Mk1 1 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T250, it has two slots in the face of the flywheel Mk2 flywheel is Mitsubishi F3T251, it has four slots in the face of the flywheel

i dont ride mine on unlit roads in the dark (any longer) so i'm not affected by the poor lighting, if i did i would be doing the same i guess. aside from NEO's conversion topic then you may find this usefu l

wow what a fine example, looks new Greetings and

Hi Liz not familiar with the bike or carb cable mechanisms but if you can improve things by 'releasing the clutch' whatever that means you should investigate this further back brake...is it a drum brake? perhaps the brake cam spindle has seized in the backplate...quite common. The fix is to remove the brake plate from the wheel and clean up / grease this part wobble...check for play in the steering head bearings, wheel bearings, swing arm bearings, check tyre pressures

Cheap manual Richard http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130662102466&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123

Thank you 'Prince John'

great news mate, have you got a lottery ticket as well?

Good lad Harry, try to keep the paint thin enough on the frame number so hopefully the MOT tester can read it and it wont cause any problem

yeah study your manual, all the info will be in there Gav

sounds like it does if you can hear the tappets

rectifiers seem to be a weak link and i'd check that first Bernard, sometimes you can even see damage like burning for example, others...you will have to get the multimeter out Besides...you can check the stator easily yourself with a multimeter...it's all in the manual and an easy task to do, then you'll know that what they say is correct or not eh

why is the battery discharged? you say you got the rectifier the wrong way, this would flatten the battery yes...just so long as the fuse held on! is there a symbol on the rectifier...a triangle with a line against one of the points? what colour wires are attached to rhe rectifier?

do this, slacken the cable adjuster. Then adjust the clutch adjuster until the pushrod meets the pressure plate and resistance is felt back off the adjuster 1/8 turn and do up locknut Adjust cable adjuster for 3mm free play at the lever end All this is just a guess but may help

Look at the subscriptions tab Richard, one year for £5 or 3 years for £10, the site costs money to run so things like 'gallery' are a perk for paying members

2A7 will represent 'DT175' 82590 will represent 'Wiring Loom' '50' is revision number, no doubt the switchable lights loom doesnt end with 50 in fact it doesnt, i checked...it ends with '20' I would think the 2A7-82590-50 loom is the same as one marked 2N5-82590-50

is there a pointer on the clutch operating arm and a mark on the top of the case?