Airhead

in my experience it usually points to old and dirty contacts in the ignition switch you can prove this to be the case or not by temporarily running a 'live' from the battery to the indicator relay...unplug the brown and fix your 'live' to the terminal on the relay

all it means is it's a DT175MX Rick I havent forgot about the bump stopper, just been to busy to investigate further at the mo

greetings Rob, yeah the little 125 draggie looks like a smart bike...keep it clean especially this time of year

I'd start by looking in the exhaust header but i'm not familiar with your bike, why 50mph...is it a American thing?

why not just put oil in until you see the level in the glass jimmy?

cant see it being very fast or powerful, crikey the speedo tops out at 50mph, must be restricted some!

painting the sump guard will be easy, yes why not freshen it up at at point of sale, maybe the exhaust too it's your call

whatever you do welshwan dont expect it to last, you just have to do it again when it starts rusting, i'm afraaid that a that water being thrown at it when it's hot takes its toll, It's an every year job really I have found but ignore it at your peril

Greetings and

I'd see if the switch contacts can be parted, maybe the fault is there

so tell us more...is this a bike you recently bought and it never worked right, or one that worked just fine and recently failed? whats wrong with the switch as you see it?

chances are then that someone fitted the wrong switch so you have lost some functionality

yeah that might be the problem Ken

splined shaft? not on a brake pedal that would be a gear pedal Ben yeah as said I persnally ride with the ball of my foot on the rest and slide my foot forwards to brake. Well done on sorting the adjustment fella

I'll have a look at work tomorrow, we used to have one but I think it went missing, I'll check anyway

it will work thats what its for, they have a tapered knife edge and they bite in behind the bearing and move the bearing along the shaft

you need acess to a proper bearing puller mate, local garages?? is your 175 still in bits? http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=bearing+puller&hl=en&sa=X&rlz=1W1GGLL_enGB401&biw=1024&bih=516&tbm=isch&tbnid=OeJ6ON3Gw_lc5M:&imgrefurl=http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/da4098/hydraulic-bearing-puller-set/3497249.aspx&docid=IM9TWXYz1ljS_M&imgurl=http://media5.rsdelivers.cataloguesolutions.com/LargeProductImages/R349724-01.jpg&w=444&h=346&ei=yns8Ue-hB_GP7AaIsoDABQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=499&vpy=157&dur=2672&hovh=198&hovw=254&tx=125&ty=115&page=1&tbnh=135&tbnw=173&start=0&ndsp=12&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0,i:103

Nice intro Dave

If it only leaks when you push the bike in gear it may not be the float or needle, if youre lucky it could just be a blocked vent tube...try pulling off the vent tube from the side of the carb and test if the problem is repeatable

no need for primer, chances are the primer (unless VHT) would burn and take the top coat with it! No point in removing sound paint at all, just 'key' it with 320 grit paper I always do the rust removal then treat with jenolite the rusted area, then paint the rustad area with BBQ paint, allow to dry then do the whole lot again with BBQ paint

plastikote BBQ is recognised as being cheap, easily available (wilkinsons, B&Q) and good for the job, best left to cure as preload said or it will burn/flake if rushed into service

very nice ausibatla

That nipple is at the bottom of the float bowl right? If so It's the bowl overflow and you should check your float height or fit a new float valve assy

It doesnt help wih having the exhaust hanger bracket in the area...It's there somewhere and I would imagine it's an M6 bolt (10mm spanner size) at a guess