Airhead

why not just put oil in until you see the level in the glass jimmy?

cant see it being very fast or powerful, crikey the speedo tops out at 50mph, must be restricted some!

painting the sump guard will be easy, yes why not freshen it up at at point of sale, maybe the exhaust too it's your call

whatever you do welshwan dont expect it to last, you just have to do it again when it starts rusting, i'm afraaid that a that water being thrown at it when it's hot takes its toll, It's an every year job really I have found but ignore it at your peril

Greetings and

I'd see if the switch contacts can be parted, maybe the fault is there

so tell us more...is this a bike you recently bought and it never worked right, or one that worked just fine and recently failed? whats wrong with the switch as you see it?

chances are then that someone fitted the wrong switch so you have lost some functionality

yeah that might be the problem Ken

splined shaft? not on a brake pedal that would be a gear pedal Ben yeah as said I persnally ride with the ball of my foot on the rest and slide my foot forwards to brake. Well done on sorting the adjustment fella

I'll have a look at work tomorrow, we used to have one but I think it went missing, I'll check anyway

it will work thats what its for, they have a tapered knife edge and they bite in behind the bearing and move the bearing along the shaft

you need acess to a proper bearing puller mate, local garages?? is your 175 still in bits? http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=bearing+puller&hl=en&sa=X&rlz=1W1GGLL_enGB401&biw=1024&bih=516&tbm=isch&tbnid=OeJ6ON3Gw_lc5M:&imgrefurl=http://export.rsdelivers.com/product/rs/da4098/hydraulic-bearing-puller-set/3497249.aspx&docid=IM9TWXYz1ljS_M&imgurl=http://media5.rsdelivers.cataloguesolutions.com/LargeProductImages/R349724-01.jpg&w=444&h=346&ei=yns8Ue-hB_GP7AaIsoDABQ&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=499&vpy=157&dur=2672&hovh=198&hovw=254&tx=125&ty=115&page=1&tbnh=135&tbnw=173&start=0&ndsp=12&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0,i:103

Nice intro Dave

If it only leaks when you push the bike in gear it may not be the float or needle, if youre lucky it could just be a blocked vent tube...try pulling off the vent tube from the side of the carb and test if the problem is repeatable

no need for primer, chances are the primer (unless VHT) would burn and take the top coat with it! No point in removing sound paint at all, just 'key' it with 320 grit paper I always do the rust removal then treat with jenolite the rusted area, then paint the rustad area with BBQ paint, allow to dry then do the whole lot again with BBQ paint

plastikote BBQ is recognised as being cheap, easily available (wilkinsons, B&Q) and good for the job, best left to cure as preload said or it will burn/flake if rushed into service

very nice ausibatla

That nipple is at the bottom of the float bowl right? If so It's the bowl overflow and you should check your float height or fit a new float valve assy

It doesnt help wih having the exhaust hanger bracket in the area...It's there somewhere and I would imagine it's an M6 bolt (10mm spanner size) at a guess

youre barking up the wrong tree Ben, The thing with the split pin...isnt that the pivot shaft for the pedal? and the thing with wires is the stop lamp switch when you eventually get to the bottom of this you'll have to adjust the stop lamp switch or the lamp may be on all of the time

Ben, the brake arm stop is usually a bolt with locknut, If you lower the brake arm in this way you'll have to slacken off the adjuster again at the end of the operating rod first, and re-adjust as reqd later

see screw 16014 Davie, when you screw them fully home...Thats a gentle fully home mate...no force

Nahh screws in the bottom of float bowls are for draining usually, often there is a spigot there too where the drained fuel will exit