Airhead

you should still bleed the pump though or you'll have air in it and it may deliver to little oil if you dont do that. and theres a much better way than kicking it, hold the throttle fully open and then push and pull the pump piston many times over, this will simulate the engine running at full belt and more besides or at least hold the throttle fully open (with the sparkplug out) and then do the kicking

that bleed screw (it's not a drain screw) should remove easily enough if you get some mole grips on the side of the screw...not too tight mind...or they will just slip off and bugger up the sides of the screw.

lets go back a little, when did it last run and what did you do since that time?

£239 for a cdi is not bad??

when I do an exhaust I usually just sand down the worst parts and treat the bare metal with jenolite to cure the rust, generally this tends to be the header pipe section which gets the hottest and has the most water thrown at it, you dont have to remove all the paint if it's sound, just key it a little with 240 wet/dry paper. Yes I think blasting can be a bit harsh especially with a coarse grit...I would tend not to unless its a fine grit.

yeah but it's even worse nowadays with modern petrol!

I would do those if the rest is good, to me they are letting the rest down now, the exhaust is an absolute must do on a regular basis...you just can get those any longer...you probably know this but Plast-kote BBQ (from wilkinsons) is the stuff to use but it's best cured if you are able to do that Plasti kote BBQ paint My swingarm, I did this earlier this year just with rattle can...better than original with zinc primer, original didnt have any primer at all to my knowlege! The best paitn job I saw in blue was the one forum member ventura had done, it really was a cracking job...look for his posts here up to you though

Greetings spot, yeah the old DTMX hard to let them go eh?

If its bad, restore it...if it's not bad leave it be is what I'd do I use photobucket, upload my pics there and copy the IMG tag for the picture, then paste it into your forum post

if it wont tap in gently it's too big...proceed with caution I have used the same gasket many times over though myself lol

1999 - 2003 dtr was 240, some older dtr's were 210... the DTRE is listed as being 210 so a 220 will be ample for the DEP I reckon

Luke take a chill pill fella

Result

Thats a good point...there is a gasket under the float valve seat...check it's there and in good condition

yeah happy days rjh Great intro...one of the best As for making the right choice? ...If you were once happy with a puch maxi and an Honda SS50 I,m sure you'll be happy with the XS250 also Greetings and

Greetings beaky

Thats a bummer Alex you invested a lot of time n effort into that ahh well at least it wasnt yours!

OMG that thing is possessed

Greetings Lizzy, yeah plenty of old codgers around these parts...so you're a bit wicked eh lol

Here you go Rick, the one on the right Give them a number http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-KEYS-CUT-TO-CODE-NON-TRANSPONDER-TYPES-PLEASE-ASK-ABOUT-CODES-/321086126268?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4ac23978bc#ht_420wt_721

yeah me too, got house chores to do but if i'm lucky it's the FS1E rally next weekend then the squires 2 stroke event

Wally Not a bad idea because when the weather cools down...at that distance you'll have a lot of condensation in your engine...not good

Great stuff Stu...good luck with it

Next best thing to do Lewis? Stop dicking about with it and start enjoying the ride...you already said you can get it nearly off the clock, If your sole intention is to keep pushing the bikes limits it may not last long anyway before something goes bang