pilninggas

further more to ^ you could just check that the bike cannot do more than say 70mph (roughly 12bhp for a road bike) or 75mph (roughly 15bhp for a road bike) depending on year. Applying common sense helps a lot. Last year Avon and Somerset Police had a purge on modified learner bikes - but crucially - they focused on 49cc mopeds, that had been derestricted for more speed and noise. Given how some of these kids were riding it was a good thing and made a massive impact. As long as the bike doesnt attract attention and you ride in a safe manner, you will probably not have to worry. Having said that be aware in the event of an accident your insurance /the police may wish to inspect the machine. Insurance companies seem keen now to investigate obvious undeclared mods (exhausts, flash paint etc), than less conspicuous things.

i am not sure which model you are looking at but the original TZR 88-95ish was about 22hp derestricted. To derestrict it you could either purchase a power valve solenoid kit from yam or you could 'peg' the powervalve open. A mate had one which he bought with the valve pegged. Was very peaky, but good for 90mph. If you bought one derestricted with a pegged valve you could reset the power valve to the closed position. i guess a dealer would charge 40-60 pounds, as its gonna be an hours labour, plus faffin' around. if it was derestricted with the kit, you could get them to remove it. the later models are probably restricted via the ecu, and probably if derestricted the ECU has been replaced (having said that, later model suzuki RG125s were derestricted by chopping a wire!). If you wanted to restrict any bike you could put a device on the carb/throttle cable to prevent it from opening fully. i doubt many shops would take this kinda job on, as it would be an inexact science and would really need dyno testing to check conformance to 12bhp/15bhp, which ever year the model is.

an important technicality: you have entitlement for 49cc. a moped is defined as 49cc with a limit of 30mph/50km/h.

sounds just like bad earth! test it out by running a flying lead from a ground on the cluster straight to the negative of the battery.

welcome! wasnt the whole jaffa-thing solved in the high-court (McVities v. HMRC)?

welcome!

i dont think anyone is 'against him', this is a motorcycle forum after all. his conduct is odd and he posted several magnanimous posts/threads that were 'out there'. i think his interpersonal skills are in need of improvement. remember he has gone back and edited his posts so the build-up and fall out do not necessarily make sense. i hope he returns with a bit more decorum, but equally if he or anyone is gonna slag me off, do it to my face its too easy on a computer- i know i teach secondary kids who love slagging each other but never in person, always by text or email. btw, this is a brialliant forum and Goff is a legend!

a mate of mine did it at 18 and struggled to make it pay. the insurance is very high for any drive-for-pay job if you are under 25. his superdream (an inaccurate name!) cost him £1000 a year tpo. you need a reliable bike, but if you are in newbury you are in striking distance of working the smoke, which is where the best money is.

did you see the news today? Scientists have managed to produce microscopic amounts of pure Unobtainium-281 in a laboratory in a shed in Cambridge. The scientists said the only known materials now rarer are parts for RD500s and RG500s Good luck with tracking these bits down!

wildfoamy have you tried sourcing parts from here: http://shop.ebay.de/items/_W0QQ_nkwZjawaQQ...fromZR40QQ_mdoZ ich habe Ursprungs einige Sachen von hier und häufig sind sie preiswerter und reichlicher!

where did you get that from?

if its a classic try footman james.

i wonder if i can buy a US Homeland Security Action Man?

Welcome, where abouts in eire r u?

i thought his response was rather amusing, i gotta say i dont like people insulting me via the internet, it seems a bit weak! maybe he has other stuff going on his life and this was his way of venting his spleen. onwards and upwards!

oh dear. i think you need to stop calling me that.

Welcome fella

dont slag me off unless you do it in person to my face. you are full of sh1t and you are making yourself look very silly. if you dont like it round here clear off.

no, im not, how long have you been riding? you can measure my riding experince in decades. I have a degree in mechanical engineering have worked on many bikes including the clutches of them and i dont like people lording it with stuff they ripped off from another site. The point i was making is that your original post was just ridiculous and very, very patronising to the rest of us on here!

Handai, some questions for you: What are your views on back-torque limiters in aiding competent down shifting? Do you think as devices they are useful for instance if all weight is transferred forwards? What about the response times of such devices? What technique do you use to mate engine speed to rear wheel speed on traditional set-ups? Do you blip with two-fingers or lower rpms to avoid blipping? What are your views on puposely allowing the rear wheel to break traction on down-changes to allow the motorcycle to be 'backed-in' Rossi-style? How do you think variomatic and electronically controlled dual clutch systems differ from regular clutches when undertaking down changes? this thread is a wind-up surely?

The previous method for getting fuel/air ~the mixture~ into the cylinder was to use a carburettor which uses the movement of air being sucked into the cylinder to draw fuel out of the carb float bowl, using the venturi effect. Fuel Injection uses pressurised fuel which is forced into the inlet (or directly in GDi type engines), in a very carefully metered way. EFI is controlled by an ECU (management computer), which looks at a range of variables to decide how long to inject fuel for (time of injection being reasonably approximate to quanity. Typically the variables sampled at millisecond intervals might be inlet vacuum relative to air pressure, inlet air temperature (cold air is more dense and therefore has a greater mass for a given volume), engine position in its cycle, engine speed, amount of throttle opening and exhaust gas composition. Ideally an engine will produce maximum power at full throttle if the engine is a little rich higher air to fuel ratio of less 14.7:1 ratio and more efficiency if it is leaner or stiochiometric air to fuel ratio of 14.7:1 or greater. Motorcycles have moved to EFI in order to meet stricter exhaust criteria. Carbs struggle to operate with similar precision over extended periods of time and with a tendency to wear rich would lead to the catalytic converters (a superflous device on a motorcycle?) being destroyed promptly. Lots of people will tell ypou carbs are better, the simple fact is on large motorcycles they are often intensly complex with a range of modes of operation ('circuits') which can all if out of spec lead to poor running. EFI has one or two injectors per cyclinder which follow a map-a computer algorithm in the ECU and this is much simpler, easier to fault find and much more tuneable. The fuel is pressurised by an electric pump. the injector then opens, squirting fuel into the inlet tract where it is atomised - forms small droplets - the mixture is sucked into the engine where the spark-plug ignited it, it does not explode. The hot gas expands and the piston is pushed downwards to turn chemical energy into mechanical work. The hot, spent gases are expelled by the piston on the exhaust stroke and exit to the exhaust system. hope that helps - this is my EFI experiment which i aborted due to house renovation: http://fzr1000injection.blogspot.com/2008/04/overview.html

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welcome

my 2cents: go for it if that is what you want to do, but remember it will never be worth as much as a standard model (unless you do something sublime), you will need to declare the mods/paintwork to your insurance (the premium may rocket) and you are more likel to be pulled by the old bill. Do it because you want to, not because its a cheapo alternative to repairing the damage (remember there are some good fairing repair companies around - lots of one-man-in-a-shed types). good luck

sonny, do you ride in the wet the way you ride in the dry? remember all tyres have less grip in the wet than dry, this is even more important with motorcycles. you need to go slower, brake more gently and not corner so hard.