pilninggas

there is one final thought about going out and having an R1 as a first bike, where are you gonna get when you get bored of it? In the UK bike insurance is pretty dear for young pups, therefore people tend to start small and get to larger machines over a number of years. Its great because when you get bored of a machine you know you can upgrade for more kicks. if you start on an R1, where are you gonna go next? hayabusa, turbo, nitrous.....could get very silly, very quickly. start smaller and build-up, you'll be a far better rider in the long run.

the back of haynes comics also have quite a good checklist you can work through too. Get a mate to do the actual checks, so that they are unbiased, just like the real tester.

tdm 850 are great. i bought one a few months ago and they are really, really good all-rounders. i'm 5'6" and im a little tip-toey but not too bad. ive done 400+miles in a day. its quick in the bends and i get 50mpg+, only less if i really keep thrashing it. i would recommend them totally, mine is a little tatty, but cost me £800 locally. top speed is 135mph at a push, but it'll sit comfortably on the motorway for 160miles or more at 90mph. went out on saturday, did 350 miles (went to minehead, barnstaple, bideford, bude before looping south and going back to brizzle), even when it was pissing down the bike kept most of me dry. Hung the back-end out a few times too, without too much bother. mines a 98 4tx. kinda wonder what i'm gonna do soon, as i dont wanna run the EXUP and the tdm, and one may have to go. might have to be the EXUP as the tdm is comfortable and far better for my license. any specific questions pm me.

welcome my opinion: ebay for spares such as bodywork (due to oe cost) fowlers (google) for oe parts and consumables wemoto, m and p etc for generic consumables. also check out your local bike shops for some good deals

if you mean is it a straight fit, no, i dont think so. However i dare say it could be made to go.

whats actually wrong with it? arent most of these chinese bikes old honda and suzuki designs? if its mechanical maybe a manual for the original (japanese) bike be obtained? other than that it cant be that difficult to suss out if it is single. good luck

for consumables and some spares check out wemoto (google), you can order online. Be aware whilst they are very good, some parts are occasionally wrong, this happened to me a while back (1993 part instead of 1995 part sent to me). Also some of their pattern parts arent the best. For mail order genuine yamaha parts google Fowlers (bristol), they have or can turn-around most parts real quick. I'm real lucky i live 5 minutes from them! btw if poss have your chassis number ready when you call them.

Stage 3 tune, is more a term related to carb'ed bikes. To tune an MT-01, i guess the tuner would fit a power commander. This is where the dyno bit comes in, with the bike on the dyno the fuelling map could be adjusted for more power etc very accurately. i'm guessing an MT-01 has opportunities for significant power increases from standard when set up on a dyno.

i can understand you sweaties fine, i watch Rab C! Bristolian accent rocks, iv got the broadest you can find, its great

its an april fools from a couple of years ago that keeps cropping up! barkwind - anyone in scotland, has no right to mock us bristolians

i think the carb may be flooded yeah i'll turn the light off as i go!

what a bike tho,. looks amazing, always wanted a blast on one. When you do get it running, you'll be grinning like a chav with a new shell-suit.

doing the valves aint particularly complex, but it is time consuming (camshafts do come off, so its a good few hours work) and as said previously 20 shims at £3 each (worst case) is £60, however i doubt the engine would have needed that many. How many miles does the bike have? Its possible the adjusted clearances and balanced carbs are allowing worn jets to become obvious. Does the bike start from cold without choke? if it does you need new jets.

cant comment upon the r125 particularly, however as long as the number plate is legal 8"x6" i think, and is secure and there is a reflector it should be okay. Maybe the dealer fitted a tail-tidy for free before he picked it up. If this is the only mod, then that is good, the r125, as with many 125s, seems to be moded frequently, sometimes well, often badly.

Honda have traditionally been dearer, in part due to their superior build quality (which is true for a lot of their range) and because they consider themselves the most up-market of the japanese makers (something which they also think of their cars). With the 600cc/1000cc sportsbikes in the UK, a lot of price is dictated by the how long the particular model has been on the market. If it is a new design in the 'two year cycle' then it tends to be at the higher end of the price range, if it is due to be replaced then it tends to be lower, this seems regardless of maker e.g. both the 08 R1 and the 08 gsxr were the cheapest 1000cc sportsbikes, but the new replacements are the dearest. Other types of bikes seem to be priced according to demand, as often very close comparisons between different makers offerings can be hard, comparing the kawasaki er6 to the new diverion is difficult (due to differences in engine configuration etc).

sounds like the 'resistor' chips you can get for virtually anything fuel injected. Dont bother.

don't waste your money (or time) on pattern fork seals, buy genuine from either your local yam dealer or google fowlers for mail order. pattern ones are of variable quality and often last for a few months.

my guess would be worn main jets, as these tend to wear out. Is the end of the silencer sooty? does it strumble getting on the revs? If you do replace, dont use a dyno jet kit. google allens and jets. It could be seized exup valve, electrical (plugs or coils) or maybe the valve job needs doing (something like evry 24,00omiles on an R1 can be sooner though if ridden properly) or even an air leak (manifold rubbers perish). how mechanical are you? you could start to look at individual things and try to track it down. A dyno run might be worth a punt, would certainly say if the bike is rich. good luck.

i havent done this job myself, however it does require stripping the ngine down to get access. The problem with the fzr1000, yzf750 type engine is that once you take them apart all the other stuff needs attention. If you are able it may be worth a go, then again you might wanna just get another engine (fzr1000 will go in with a little work). other solution, get good at bump starting a behemoth!

with all of you privately educated types, i must be one of the few on here who recieved a state education! iv got an inferiority complex now

it might look a bit weird as the thou is a fair bit wider than the 4. If i was looking to fair a 4, id be looking for an R6 fairing to pop on.

cover the back brake (^^^), in first ride up to have of the available revs, tottle along at this speed (will no doubt sound revvy). When you are ready, just whip the throttle open. Be prepared for it to come up fast (this is prob what happened to you the other day). I find standing on the pegs makes this a lot easier. go steady.

hey, welcome. you might wanna check out wiltshirebikers.co.uk, unless you are already on there. they do loads of good ride outs. where in south wilts r u?

http://www.yamahaclub.com/forums/index.php...2&hl=tomtom

on a point of clarity as has been said above you can do your test on a 125 (e.g. your existing bike), however if you are 21 or over you can do Direct Access on a training school 45bhp+ motorcycle (you have to be with a DSA approved instructor or an examiner) and you can ride anything you want after passing your test (there are no 33/44bhp/whatever restrictions). i think you've answered your own question though, if you like your bike and dont wanna trade up, do your test on your r125 (do a little top-up with your favourite riding school) and either keep it or follow the above advice. btw welcome